Car:94 GSR
B18C1
Solid 220-230 compresssion across all 4cyl.
Mods:I{aem sri}/H{plm big tube tri-y}/E{2.36 in}/IM(S2 port matched with 70mm tb)/70MM TB/test pipe. CHIPPED P28 for all things listed.

noting has been done to increase the compresstion as far as i know.

im looking to get the skunk 2 tuners 2's(plus springs+retainers)

seeing as the c1 has a lower comp would this be over camming my engine. i don't have the means to work on the bottem end at this point.
thanks in advance

 

Yes. I think you would be. Meaning that you won't really see the benefits over the costs of purchasing these camshafts until your bottom end can "work with" the camshafts; mainly, increasing static compression properly.

 

^^^agreed

 

No not at all, these cams will work just fine just make sure the cams are degreed in properly.

 

would a thinner HG and flat valves yeild a sufficant comp boost. or would it be more bennifical to go with the tuner 1's. im also open to milling the head but money is an issue at this time.

 

bump** anyone else have some input. still unsure the T1's are and extra 10-15 the t2's are 15-20 but require springs+retainers(extra 230-300$)

 

I wouldn't. Using the cheaper alternatives to technically raise compression doesn't work the best. proper pistons would be best.

 

^that's what i was thinking but im just trying to figure out witch one will yeild the highest hp gain with stock compression. i can get either the t1 or t2 for the same price that's my problem.

 

Hmm. Just sharing my recent experience with mine.
Choosing cams is about making power at higher rpm, and reducing static compression so you can run proper ignition to make power.

Just for kicks, I put in a B16A cams, put the timing marks on the adjustable cam pulleys to 0 degs. on an B20B engine that runs 11.8 Static CR on 91 octane.
Tune as I could, I couldn't bump up ignition high enough before encountering knock. So the 1-3K RPM had only 0-5 deg advance, and there's still some light knocking.
Probably wouldn work better if I put in higher octane, but it's not practical on a daily.
So at this level, I should start bleeding compression via the cams, by increasing the LSA/overlap, but too much and I risk v2v contact, so I have to change cams, no other way about it. This is a case where changing cams is required.

At your level, with that compression, tuner2 can work, but why buy them first? you can get plenty more usable power out of the stock cams with a slight compression bump via thinner gasket/flat valves.
Or, with the prices of the tuner2, get a management system like hondata s300, if you haven't already, and you'll still have enough money to get a pair of adjustable cam pulleys when you tune the ecu and cams.
It's like you're trying to toss money at the engine and hope the power increases by magic. Was there a problem with the stock cams that require changing them out?

 

why upgrade well better lift/duarration over stock GSR cams. hondata s300 would be nice but i have NO means to tune my self. or even mess with advancing/retarding ignition/exhaust on my own. i will be getting one or the other + a tune i just don't want an unusable power band witch im worried might happen with the tuner 2's

 

hrm

 

You run a bigger duration, the power moves up (in an ideal perfect world, that doesn't take into account other factors). It also kills low end power due to compression leak (hence the existence of the term dynamic compression ratio)

Question is, what kind of power band are you looking for?
If for drag, you want something that has high power in the 7-9Krpm range, with little care for low to mid power/torque.
If for daily drive, you want something that keeps the torque at 1-4K range, so you don't have to hit VTAK (intended) each time you want to overtake like the B16As.
While for track, you want something that's a little middle ground, or the broadest powerband possible, around 5-8K rpm, so there's more flexibility when using the gears around the corners when overtaking/choosing a line to pass/pressure the competition.

And always, always do clearance check on your p2v and v2v so you always know how much to safely run your cam advance/retard/overlap. It's sad to be asked to tune a car, and then when you ask them about the clearances of how much advance/retard/overlap, and they give you a blank look. Then they ask you to just 'fiddle' with the cam timings as if clearances doesn't matter. *facepalm*

 

top end (road racing/drag) it's a weekend/fun car so most of the time i just cruz around town(no real need for low hp/TQ). but it's fun to go WOT on the long straights around here(top end comes in handy). but mid range would be nice im guessing the tuner 1's would yeild better low/mid. and the tuner 2's would be more topend/drag orriented ?

thanks

 

I have had that exact same parts combo work very well with those cams, so I say no...not overcammed. Will it work better with more compression, yes but absolutely not a waste without it

 

What did you dyno/trap with tuner2s and stock comp?

 

^X2. eventialy i will up the CR eventialy but at the moment im on a budget. is there a notible difference between the Tuner 1's and 2's on stock comp im sure with 11.0.0+ it would be more noticble.

 

The problem is you might actually lose power due to excessive overlap (which lowers dynamic comp). The solution obviously is tuning.

 

Depending on how much overlap can you "tune" that out(won't be able to get s2 cam gears). i'll be short on money if i go with the tuner 2's(will need springs+retainers to) isn't the recommended comp for tuner 2's 11.5.0+ ? t1's are drop in and stock b18c1 comp is fine. t2's require the springs and retainters would they need to be degreed also ?

 

I'm by no means an expert but I suspect that you're money would be wasted on those cams without cam gears. I think they have a lot of overlap at 0,0. The best solution may be to wait until you've got more cash.

 

i think i'll end up going with the tuner 1's + cam gears and a tune. i't will be a fair time before i get around to building the bottom end(if ever). my goal was full bolt on's and maybe a hondata s300.