Topic says it all. there is still one in the car. it's just not hooked up. should it be? and if so how?

 

Depends on how the swap was done.
If the H22 was installed with the unmodified ECU then you will want the EGR valve hooked up. Reason is that during EGR activation timing is further advanced to aid in complete burn of the diluted mixture.

If the EGR is simply disconnected and there is no modification to the timing/fuel tables the engine will have have a lean misfire issue.

There should be a control box of sorts with the MAP sensor and a few other vacuum solenoids located on the firewall.


I think 2, 24, 26, 28 are part of the EGR control.

 

Yup, if you're running the stock P13 ECU then you will need to hook up EGR as the ECU will be looking at that. Otherwise, if you are running a P28 or P72 chipped then no need to hook it up. Just get a block off aluminum CNC plate from Rosko. Cleaner look!

 

What's hooked up and what's not. Everything should be hooked up and you should be able to get away with using all accord egr components just fine.

 

Thanks, ill take a look and post pics. im not sure about the ecu being used ill have to take a look at that too.. i just bought the car 4 days ago.

 

the EGR is not hooked up.there is no where for the harness on the Egr to plug in. as in my stock accord which has plugs into the distributor and runs to the vacuum box. The swapped accord bogs out at about 3500 rpms like it is getting a bad fuel:air ratio. just trying to see if thats whats wrong.

 

I really don't know what it is you're trying to say about no harness. Did you take your accord harness out ? How is your car running without a harness ?

 

sorry. im a bit new to this. the Egr in front of the throttle body has a plug with nothing to plug into. atleast from what i can find.

 

can u take a picture of it..in order to get real help you need to be specific as to what's going on or ur either going to get bad advice or you're not going to get any advice at all


My guess is that someone plugged the vacuum hose going to the egr valve. That's my guess...again a guess.

 

You can also simply look at the diagram that mike was happy to supply to you, of which you are choosing to completely and totally ignore when replying now, and tell us what it is exactly that you are talking about.

 

whoa. im not ignoring it. thats why i said thanks. and i did tell you the problem. my car is bogging out at about 3500 rpm or 70 mph.

The egr hose coming from the vacuum box is plugged. and i don't see the EGR itself in the diagram. atleast not the one im seeing on mine. ill post a pic of what im talking about. but ill take some from my car when i have better light.

 

The plug on the right has nowhere to go.

 

Take your old egr valve from the accord...buy some carb cleaner and clean it out as best as you can. Buy a new egr valve gasket for the accord or the prelude vtec..they use the same exact gasket. Put the old accord egr valve on the h22 intake manifold. Take the hose and remove the plug and put it on the egr valve where it belongs. Remove the "radio/backup" fuse in the top right corner of the fuse assembly under the hood for a couple minutes. Start the car and see if the check engine light stays on. If it does, check for any and all codes and report back.

 

If 3500 is at a cruising speed/part throttle then yes, EGR system not properly disabled(or inoperative) would cause a stumbling as the timing and fuel tables are setup for the EGR dilution. Instead the timing is advanced and the fuel is dialed back, and you are now feeling the lean stumble/misfire.

 

okay,will do. thanks.

 

okay, so how can i hook it back up? or would it just be easier/more efficient to put a p28 ECU on it and block off the EGR.

 

Okay. well there was a hook up for the EGR it was just tucked away and im blind. i unplugged the hose to the selenoid and plugged it back into the EGR and hooked it back up.
There is a P13 in it. and its still jumping in high rpm? Fuel filter maybe? or what?

 

is the check engine light on?

 

Did you verify that the EGR valve functions? You should be able to rev the engine slowly up to 3Krpm and see the diaphragm open the valve. If it does, are you sure the ports are clear?

When the ignition is turned to ON does the CEL light come on?

 

The check engine light is not on, and no i didn't check the valve function.
im not sure about the ports. infact i don't even really know what that means or how to check them. i will try slowly rev. the engine to check see if the diaphragm opens the valve though and get back to you about that and the CEL in the on postion.

Thank you all for the advice. I changed the spark plugs and fuel filter, just to be safe.( they both needed it. and im putting new spark plug wires on in the morning.)

 

I had the same issues at higher rpms(up to 5000 rpms) and this was due to the knock sensor wire not being shielded. Is your knock sensor wire hooked up with just a regular wire to it ? If so, that could be your issue. Are your iab's hooked up ? properly ? with the iab solenoid ? are all your vacuum hoses hooked up correctly ?

Regarding your egr function, normally jdm h22's don't have enough miles to have major egr port buildup in them. It doesn't look like you did anything in my above post outside of putting the hose back on.

 

I haven't taken it off and cleaned it yet. because i intend to get the port plugs before i tap it and clean those out too. i don't have a scanner to check the code. so i don't really know how to do the second part of your advice. :/

it has 87000 miles on the engine. i will check the knock sensor and solenoid, and vacuum hoses. from what i can see the hoses are all the right number (etc.)

 

Pre '96 cars do not use a scanner for codes. Open the passenger door, and down by the kick panel there should be a blue two wire connector, use a piece of wire or all metal paperclip to jumper the wires.
But you will need to find out why the CEL light is not working, hopefully it just needs a new bulb. The bulb is what will blink the codes to you.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ecu.html

 

alright, well i checked the CEL and it was busted. so i put the bulb from the oil light in it because i couldn't find one at a local store (is that okay?, ill go to the local honda shop when on monday if not).i jumped the diagnostic connector and the light just stayed on. no blinking. idk what that means. is that a code 0?

 

nevermind. I didn't even notice you posted a link mike. Thank you.