H23A Vtec Swap in 96 Accord Ex
Hey guys i have a 96 Accord Ex with the f22b1 SOHC Vtec, I'm planning to go pick up a H23A Vtec OBD2. I'm keeping the tranny, mounts, and ecu but I'm wondering what i need to wire up, I hear i need to wire up the knock sensor from the sensor to ecu pin? Not a problem but i need to know for sure before i go buy engine and all. When i do keep my ecu will it run decent before i can get a jumper harness n get a tune on OB1? Or would it be easier to get the ecu with engine and will that plug n play?Last thing is will the H23 alternator work, or can i use the f22B? I just need someone that did this legitly first hand and had it running right. So any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks
Dude, you need to read some of the plethora of H22 swap guides. 99.999% of your questions are answered in there. The Accord FAQ that is stickied at the top of this page has links to several of them.
well idk where these links are, i found a h22 swap guide but i don't want that, i want someone that did an h23a from experience, so if you have a link to that lmk , but i would like someones first hand experience, NOT an h22 n answer the questions i posted
What ecu are you planning on using? If you use the f22b1's ecu, you're going to be restricting the engine's potential.
You'll need a driver's side prelude mount, a few wires need to be extended, and you'll need a prelude ecu since the h23a only comes in automatic.
I've done an h23a swap in my accord. Other than the slight tilt, f22b crank and rods, and lower comp pistons, it really is identical to the h22a. You really should listen to TheMuffinMan's advice, because the swap is basically the same.
You'll need a driver's side prelude mount, a few wires need to be extended, and you'll need a prelude ecu since the h23a only comes in automatic.
I've done an h23a swap in my accord. Other than the slight tilt, f22b crank and rods, and lower comp pistons, it really is identical to the h22a. You really should listen to TheMuffinMan's advice, because the swap is basically the same.
ok well I heard that i can use my driver side mount but itll need cut? or do i just need the prelude one? n when you say prelude you mean a 97- 01? but ok so if i would get an h23a ecu the only dtc that it will throw will be the automatic lockup valve? but Im picking this up from jdmengine depot in new jersey, ill just grab an ob2 h22 ecu then instead. Did you keep power steering n AC? because i heard ill need to keep my crank pulley from the f22 n will the ps pump and bracket fit the h23? Thanks for all the help
I used a 97-01 mount, but any h22 mount should work. You might be able to cut your current mount (I never thought or heard of that), but finding a prelude one will be less of a headache. I didn't even bother trying to use the h23a ecu, but people who have used an auto ecu in a manual car have hated it.
AC should still work. It never worked in my car and I still didn't fix it, but it looks like you can keep AC with some different hoses.
As for PS, you should easily be able to keep it by using the f22 pulley and moving over the components. My pump was going bad so I just didn't even care about keeping it during the swap. I don't need it once the car start moving anyways, so it's not a big deal.
AC should still work. It never worked in my car and I still didn't fix it, but it looks like you can keep AC with some different hoses.
As for PS, you should easily be able to keep it by using the f22 pulley and moving over the components. My pump was going bad so I just didn't even care about keeping it during the swap. I don't need it once the car start moving anyways, so it's not a big deal.
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The only ecu that will work for you is the 37820-P13-A12 which is the '96 obd2 prelude vtec ecu.
The 97-01 p13 ecus have an immobilizer and unless you plan on upgrading your ignition to accomodate it and to have the ecu flashed and to get new keys, get the 37820-P13-A12 one. They are fairly rare tho. You may have to buy it brand new. If your state doesn't require emissions to be exact you can just get a chipped ecu and have it tuned. Here in CA everything has to be legit for smog purposes.
You should just pick up a prelude mount. It's a pain to retrofit the accord one.
You will need to wire in iab and knock sensor. The knock sensor needs to be 16 gauge shielded wire. This is imperative.
The 97-01 p13 ecus have an immobilizer and unless you plan on upgrading your ignition to accomodate it and to have the ecu flashed and to get new keys, get the 37820-P13-A12 one. They are fairly rare tho. You may have to buy it brand new. If your state doesn't require emissions to be exact you can just get a chipped ecu and have it tuned. Here in CA everything has to be legit for smog purposes.
You should just pick up a prelude mount. It's a pain to retrofit the accord one.
You will need to wire in iab and knock sensor. The knock sensor needs to be 16 gauge shielded wire. This is imperative.
so i couldn't get a jdm h22 OB2 ecu from jdmengine depot when i go n pick up the swap? or does it have to be usdm 96 prelude ? If i can't find a 96 lude ecu then im going to run the h23a ecu or the f22b1 ecu temporarily. I'm eventually going to get a jumper harness and convert it to obd1 and have it tuned on neptune. but till then i want to keep all the extra parts i have to get to a minimum. N thanks again for all the help guys
so i couldn't get a jdm h22 OB2 ecu from jdmengine depot when i go n pick up the swap? or does it have to be usdm 96 prelude ? If i can't find a 96 lude ecu then im going to run the h23a ecu or the f22b1 ecu temporarily. I'm eventually going to get a jumper harness and convert it to obd1 and have it tuned on neptune. but till then i want to keep all the extra parts i have to get to a minimum. N thanks again for all the help guys
The F22B1 ECU will run it but poorly. If you're going to convert to OBDI then do it all at once, it's not worth figuring out how to keep it OBDII just to convert back down the road.
Another question is will it be easier to just buy a jumper harness and obd1 h22 ecu to start off because I've been looking around and they're not hard to find at all but then i don't need to run the knock sensor right? n what is the iab ? Right now will it be easier to just do a h22 or f20? because the more i read the more I'm leaning towards one of them.
Last edited by downNoutCD5; Feb 8, 2013 at 07:55 AM.
ok so i could just the jumper harness and run a obd1 h22 ecu which a p13? Then would i still have the run the wire from the ecu to the sensor for the knock sensor?
If you go with the '96 USDM OBDII P13 then you would need to wire everything up to the ECU.
Well i picked up a jdm obd1 p13 from a h22 and just going to run that with a jumper harness , i think I'm going to pick up an h22 intake manifold to get rid of the iab stuff. But do any of you know how i could run the iab always open instead of hooking it up or just removing it. But I go to Pennsylvania College of Technology n the engine is coming out tomorrow so hope all goes well, The only thing I'm waiting to see if all my brackets for my ps/ac and alternator will work n I'm going to use the crank pulley from the f22 and also i heard about the driver side mount but as of right now from the looks of it, it should work but If we have to modify it shouldn't be a problem. The main concern would be what do you guys think i should do about the IAB?
also will an 92-96 prelude driver side mount work from a h23 nonvtec? or does it have to be a 97-01 prelude mount? All the help is much appreciated
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