Ok got a 92 hatch. Vx trans no grinds had to put new axles and seals in. Need to change fluid. I have searched and read and I just drive it I don't ever get above 4000k. So Honda stuff? Is that the one to use or the fm syncromesh? I thought the redline but mista bone said no go ruins bearing cages. Help. And should I run a little ATF for a couple of miles to flush it clean?

 

What did you find when you searched and read? If you didn't believe anything you've read, why would you believe the responses you get to this? :p

If all you do is commute, just put the Honda MTF in and be done with it. The Honda stuff keeps everything pretty clean inside actually if it's never abused.

 

If it's an original '92 - '95 trans plain old 10W30 (which was the recommended fluid when they were new) works great.

 

Well I read that the old 10w30 isn't the Same as it once was. I've also read that the Honda mtf is overpriced. I've read that the gm stuff is good. I thought I was gonna use the redline mtf. But I'm not sure now. I live close enough to summit racing so I can go and get stuff there if need be. I would like to do a flush rather than just a change if there is a way to do it. I have no clue how many miles are on it. My cx has a very notchy first and second I would like to prevent this. And my reading has mainly applied to people who are driving a little harder than I plan on. Mpg not mph. To many kids to many bills.

 

I've built a bunch of these transmissions and plain old 10W30 continues to work fine. Mistabone's built a hell of a lot more of them than I have and he'll tell you the same thing. Some guys go on about the zinc content, but I can say from personal experience it still works fine. Honda MTF is really, really thin for the those bearings. I've got a reasonably small sample size to go on, but I've always found that '96 - '00 transmissions seemed to have more ISB failures than '92 - '95, despite being newer and using identical bearings.

There really isn't any point. You're getting the vast majority of the fluid out with a drain and fill. If you want to do do a drain and fill and then do a second drain and fill be my guest, but you wont gain anything from it.

 

Cool thanks just some old non synth 10w30 it is then. Drain hot or after a drive as to aid in removing as much as possible correct.

 

Yep.

Really if you let it sit overnight wherever you're going to drain it you're going to get the most as it will mostly have dripped off the gears down into the bottom of the trans. Unless it's extremely cold.

 

10w30 never hurt anything in these old trannys.

Aboutt he time Honda came out with the metals cages for the bearings they started using their own MTF. The early MTF was very nice, I loved it. But what is sold today, 3rd generation? is just way too thin.

Look at all the K series 3rd gear issues and S2000 shifting issues, first step is to get away from Honda Fluids. Amsoil seems to work best in the above mentioned items.

 

SO mista spend the money and buy the amsoil. Thought that was a synth product and to slick causing other problems. I have no problem spending a little $ to make it last I just don't want to wast money an or cause damage. Thanks.