help on identifying a connector
i have a connector that kinda hangs from my headliner, right where my rearview mirror is. ive been told it was a connector for the seatbelts or a map light. i havent been able to find anything that helps me out on it. ill post a pic when i can, thanks.
Yeah if its near the rear view mirror and not the dome light its the "belt warning" wire. The Helms manual labels it as C841 for the hatchback and it should have 5 pins/wires.
Its not very essential, I've unplugged mine so I dont have to listen to it beep. It beeps when you dont use your selbelts. Some people have these unplugged due to gremlins in the sealbelt wiring, which leads to endless beeping, and it easier to just unplug this than to fix the seatbelt wiring.
Its not very essential, I've unplugged mine so I dont have to listen to it beep. It beeps when you dont use your selbelts. Some people have these unplugged due to gremlins in the sealbelt wiring, which leads to endless beeping, and it easier to just unplug this than to fix the seatbelt wiring.
yeah thats it then. does power feed through that? i dont have my test light at the house to check or a meter. ive been having a steady drain on my battery, thought the regulator was stuck open in the alternator so i replaced it, still no change. heard of a tool you can buy to find draws or shorted wires. that and im trying to get the seatbelt light to go off.
If i were you i would disconnect that for other reasons, its not needed.
I had a seatbelt tensioner that was draining my battery, I had to get them replaced (free from dealer).
The method i use to test all of my circuits was to use a test light, I disconnected the negative battery cable and ran the test light from the battery to the cable, completing the circuit. It will light up when power is being drained.
IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT run any lights or accesories as it WILL burn out your test light, its only meant to have a tiny amount of power going through it. So make sure to turn the dome light off and and other items that may come on while testing.
Now the idea is to keep an eye on this light as you remove fuses from the fuse boxes one at a time (then putting them right back). When the light does go out you'll know you've found the circuit to focus on. Depending on what circuit it is you'll have to check all the parts of that circuit (it could be 2 or 3 items or a whole bunch), a circuit diagram will be extremely helpfull at this point (some shops will print them up for you if asked).
I had a seatbelt tensioner that was draining my battery, I had to get them replaced (free from dealer).
The method i use to test all of my circuits was to use a test light, I disconnected the negative battery cable and ran the test light from the battery to the cable, completing the circuit. It will light up when power is being drained.
IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT run any lights or accesories as it WILL burn out your test light, its only meant to have a tiny amount of power going through it. So make sure to turn the dome light off and and other items that may come on while testing.
Now the idea is to keep an eye on this light as you remove fuses from the fuse boxes one at a time (then putting them right back). When the light does go out you'll know you've found the circuit to focus on. Depending on what circuit it is you'll have to check all the parts of that circuit (it could be 2 or 3 items or a whole bunch), a circuit diagram will be extremely helpfull at this point (some shops will print them up for you if asked).
left it disconnected and found i have 2 seperate draws killing my battery. one from under hood fuse panel, 20amp fuse. i believe its the cooling fan switch and relay? also under dash is 15 amp that covers the circuits for Integrated control unit, hatch/dome light and the radio.
Disconnect your radio to see if you still get a draw.
It might drawing a tiny bit to retain your presets.
What is the 20A under your hood labeled to be for?
It might drawing a tiny bit to retain your presets.
What is the 20A under your hood labeled to be for?
i was thinking the hatch light might be causing the draw because i dont have one at all, and maybe the wires are touching the body behind the plastic panel. i havent been able to find an accurate description of the 20 amp fuse. its on the side of the box closest to the window with a 10amp right above it. only relebvant i was able to find said it was for the fan relay...
Trending Topics
in my car they are as follows :
34:10
35:20
36:20
37:15
38:15
the one i pulled was number 35 i believe. possibly a belt retractor? i think later tonight im going to pull and test the main relay, i heard they can cause power draws as well.
34:10
35:20
36:20
37:15
38:15
the one i pulled was number 35 i believe. possibly a belt retractor? i think later tonight im going to pull and test the main relay, i heard they can cause power draws as well.
Can you figure out what exact fuse you pulled?
That is fuse #37.
Well according to the diagram it's 35, the one with the retractors and ignition switch. And I was talking about the main relay under the dash. I didn't get a chance to mess with it last night but I'm gonna do more testing when I get off work
still no chance of foolin around with it, probably wont till this weekend. i want to check the retractors in the door, is there a quicker to test them?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dabigshmo
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
9
Nov 23, 2007 08:47 AM



