I have a 94 GSR its 5 speed and has the factory B18C1 in it. Anyway ive been driving it for over a month with no problems , and just the other day i go to start it and nothing. And i mean nothing it wont turn over , try to crank or nothing. You can turn the key on but when you go to start it , it doesnt even make a sound. It will roll start so i thought it was the starter , had it checked at Advance Auto Parts and its good. So right now im pretty much stumped , any ifo will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

check fuses?
do you have an aftermarket alarm? they have starter kill most of the time.
how did they check the starter?

 

Diagnose the problem... https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...cm+bypass+jump

I am guessing a bad CIS or starter relay.

As mentioned, it could be a bad starter cut relay, [if you have an alarm] however there is no fuse for the starter circuit itself. 94

 

The fuses are good and i dont have an aftermarket alarm system. I thought it was the neutral safety switch so i messed with that and got it running and starting last nite, but now its worse. it wont start again and now i cant even roll start it.

 

check battery voltage.

 

the battery voltage was one of the first things i checked its good and the battery is new

 

theres no neutral safety switch on manual. thers only reverse sensor.

measure the power to the starter when cranking is there starter signal from your steering column to starter.

was a starter kill ever instaled in the car? sometimes people dont connect the starter wire properly after removing the alarm

 

It could be a bad clutch switch or ignition switch.

 

true forgot about that one. they also get messed with during some alarm remote start installs.

 

I talked to my friend that i bought the car from and he said he had the same problem and his dad put an extra ground on the starter and it fixed it. i dont know what would be the problem for it to require another ground? and also when ive been workin on it i havent seen an extra ground though.

 

No extra ground is needed, assuming the stock grounds are good, the starter motor is grounded to the engine/transmission through it's mounting bolts, unless they are loose tjhe starter needs no more grounding.

If you have not already, redo the cars main grounds to eliminate them as a possible problem.

Thats the batt. to chassis and chassis to engine grounds, DO NOT just eyeball them, disconnect/clean/reconnect.

Have you tried the bypass jump and start circuit tests I linked you to.
If so, what did you find? 94

 

i connected a new ground to the starter and it fired right up and is still starting fine. So im guessing the stock ground is bad?

 

Redo the main grounds, they are a common problem on older cars. 94

 

I agree with fcm. However, if you want to take it a step further I would recommend really going through the entire starting/charging harness.

A slow or weak crank with a newer battery would throw a red flag, a 'no click' condition would prompt me to replace something.

 

Voltmeter and measure the difference in ground at every grounding point. Shoyld not be more than .04 ideally should be .02ohm

 

wow havent been in tech for a while, the responses are hilarious.
raver you troubleshoot now?

take the starter off and sand down the base of the starter, where the starter bolts to the transmission housing.

you could also take an ohmmeter and check continuity from the housing of the starter to one of your grounds. You most likely have high resistance to your ground path.

 

do i know you?

 

What is the voltage suppose to read something like 11.8-12.7? Please correct me I'm sure these numbers are invalid

 

12.6 engine off
14-14.6 at idle

 

On a 94 Integra look for...
12.5V with engine off and fully charged batt.
13.5V engine idling.
14.5V engine "revving"
All the above +/- .1V-.2V

Anything below 12.5V w/engine off [fully charged batt] will be a problem.
Below 13.5V at idle is a problem.
Below, [or above] 14.5V w/engine revving is a problem.

The above numbers are very general, the only way to properly test the batt. and cars charging system is with an AVR, best done in car with the car running, although a batt. can be load tested and an alt. can be tested out of the car, it takes all/any connection points out of the test, [EG; main ground connections], that includes the starters ground as turbohatch96y7 mentions, and well may be the problem if adding a ground to the starter motor solves the no crank issue. 94

 

if everything else checks out i would suspect a bad connection somewhere or ignition switch.

 

Tranny ground maybe I had the same problem