20k ago i replaced my hg with a felpro and its blown again. I checked the deck and head all looked good. I reused the old head bolts and went 10 over torque spec as i was told. Ive read to use the D16Y8 head gasket part# 12251-P2J-004 and use apr head studs 208-4301. Do these part numbers look right?

Is there a place online to get oem parts at a good price, or just go to stealership?

Im gonna take head to a machine shop and have it checked but it looks good with a straight edge.

 

How hard do u run ur car u should baby it for a few thousand miles before running hard to allow for a good seal.

 

Depending on your dealership (or order online + shipping) the head gasket sould be around $25-30. Head studs not needed without more info. Factory tourqe sequence and spec, no more.

 

seriously.. get either a OEM 3 layer head gasket from STEALERSHIP or FELPRO brand...(only2 i trust) and get NEW oem head bolts or the ARP head studs... torque them to FACTORY SPEC or ARP SPECIFIED! either combination you choose DO-NOT i repeat, DO-NOT OVER TORQUE over by even 1-2 lbs you will deteriorate the integrity of the material making it WEAKER and STRETCHING bolts will over time cause failure resulting in broken bolt in block or so.




if your car comes with a metal head gasket use a metal head gasket a $30-50 resurface of the head isnt a bad investment to make sure you covered all bases... you have a y8 correct??

 

For oem try www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

 

Motor i have is a D15B8, i thought i posted it but i guess not. I dont run it hard, it dont have enough power to get out of its own way. Its a stock hatch back. I run it to work as a beater for the MPG. I was going to get the head studs because it only a little more money and there reusable. I was told you shouldnt reuse the stock bolts because there stretch bolts, but could be reused once but over torque it by 10 lbs because they stretched. The old HG was a Graphite one with metal core by felpro and the orignal one i changed was the same.

 

Depending on the mileage of the engine you may want to have the block decked as well, in which case you might as well do a complete rebuild, but if you are doing the rebuild might as well put a B7 head on there and get yourself another 32 HP. You still won't be able to get out of your own way, but at least you'll be in your own way for like another 200k before needing another headgasket.

 

check it at

www.rockauto.com/

 

since you have a d15b8 i HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting a resurface... the way HONDA surfaces the head for the "graphite/paper" looking material is too corse (deep rigids) to mate to a metal head gasket correctly. just tell the machine shop (MIRROR FINISH PLEASE AND CHECK FOR FLATNESS) --- if using metal headgasket. also the blade material/machine used at the machine shop will also determine how smooth the head comes out.

rockauto -- (Close to OEM parts usually beck/arnley napa stuff)
majestic honda -- online store (OEM parts)

 

Felpro gaskets, at least as far as Hondas go suck. Both graphite and 3 layer steel. OEM or KP Gasket Co. is the only way to go.

 

Well im definantly saying have the head checked and block for a re surface. and as the others said go fel pro or oe from a dealership. good luck man.

 

Should I have head pressure checked or just make sure it's flat?

The B7 head is dual over head cam

 

Check hondapartsunlimited.com, I get a lot of stuff from there for decent price.

 

They don't normally crack, but if they don't want a lot more it's never a bad idea.

No it isn't. Single overhead cam, non vtec. It's got 16 valves instead of 8 The bottom end is the same as a D15B8, unless you happen to have a D15B8 that only has valve reliefs for 2 valves per cylinder (some had 2, some had 4)

 

Mine is cut for 4 valves per cylinder. There's no changing anything just bolt on the B7 head?

Or do I need the B7 intake, injectors, and header?

 

Yes, although if you want the full effect you should have matching intake manifold, throttlebody, exhaust manifold O2 sensor and ECU. Everything but the O2 sensor can be found used for next to nothing.

 

Always have the head resurfaced smooth, not rough b/c its aluminum, not iron head- I learned this lesson the hard way. Also, three layer fel-pro and yes baby it (nothing over about 3K for 50miles). Then I highly advise retorque even though they say not to just for peace of mind. Usually on higher mileage cylinder sleeves 2&3(center 2) pull into the block leaving deck uneven.

 

As far as the fel-pro headgaskets go. I just pulled one out of a D-series this weekend. The black sealant part of it all flaked off and ended up in the water jacket. I have never seen an OEM gasket do this. KP Gasket Co. makes a really nice OEM style headgasket far superior to Fel-Pro.

 

"A wild EL Vap133 has appeared!"

 

Are they rare and elusive? LOL

 

Im guessing that you either Rev your car up a lot to high RPMs or when you are driving you keep it at high RPMs, OR you like to drive fast, (cant blame you who dosent? haha) so you replaced them and how long did they last you for the second time that you replaced them? Try and think of it like this, If you buy a new car and I mean brand new. like 14 miles on it or less, you should not get in and drive as fast as you can in your new car because all of the seals and rings have not been introduced to the heat of the car and how hot you get the car, if you replace something on your car and then you get it really hot for the first time its not going to set properly and you will have a problem, hope I helped I could be wrong im newer to cars.

 

Rage97 do you not read posts. I know this, this isn't my first car or rebuild. I did hg 20k ago n all was good. It was between 2 n 3 cylinder last time. This time it's at cylinder 1. I don't run the **** out of it. Like I said it doesn't have enough power to get out of its own way. It doesn't have a tach but it never get revd real hard.

 

Either go with a OEM or FEl-PRO MLS. I have never had luck with the graphite ones.

 

This is the aftermath of a 3 layer steel Fel-Pro gasket. Note the black stuff on top of the water jacket. This just doesn't happen with an OEM gasket.

 

I'm not liking the felpro gaskets I'm gonna go with the oem 3 layer. Can anyone confirm the part numbers in the first post?