Help! 15mpg in my accord, help!
Please give me some input, I drive a 1995 honda accord ex with the f22b1 vtec. It is an automatic and all stock minus the intake. I installed a short ram intake and made sure there is a hose running to the vacuum line and I made sure it was before the MAF. There is a breather on the PCV. I filled up and put seafoam in, I ran it through the vacuum lines, and in the crank case. I havn't had an oil change for a while, could that give me worse mileage? Also I live in North Dakota and right now it is 17 below without the windchill. I let my car warm up usually about 15 minutes, but when I am driving, I can literally look down and see that it has gone down. I havn't been flooring it or gas stop gas stop, I have been driving as best as i can. accelerating slow, coasting to stop lights etc. Thanks for any input.
Also it is hard paying for a lot of gas because I am a student attending school, I don't know how much the weather affects the mileage. I just filled up my tires to 35 psi so I know they aren't low.
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Apple Valley, San Bernadino County, Ca.
Bad mileage is the result of a lot of things. For starters, bad engine/tranny mounts. Replace your fuel filter, change oil and filter, plugs wires, cap rotor (i believe your car still has a cap and rotor. Letting your car warm up before you drive it, good call. Bad mileage is also the result of using a higher octane fuel than the manufacturer recommends (87,89,91) and using cheap fuel (ampm, mobile, maverick, valero, and knock off small stations) whereas good fuel (shell, Chevron, 76, texaco, circle k believe it or not) will burn cleaner and last longer "per mile" so to speak. As far as how ******* cold it is at your house. I would run like **** too haha. I do know that cold air is more dense than hot/warm air which allows for more air to enter the cylinder ie cleaner more efficient and powerful burn. MAYBE don't quote me on this, the cold air intake you installed is letting air too cold into the engine (i grew up in palm springs, 125°f during the summer, I know nothing about cold).
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There are about 200 threads regarding gas mileage and improving it, several on the front page alone.
You don't mention what weight oil you are using - at 17 below, you should be using the 'extreme' recommendations for oil weight and such. The short ram isn't going to help you much at all over the stock intake - so I'd probably toss the SRI and breather system you have setup and revert that all back to stock.
And again, you're not mentioning what other maintenance you've done. At -17 though I'm not thinking you're going to be hitting 30MPG though...
You don't mention what weight oil you are using - at 17 below, you should be using the 'extreme' recommendations for oil weight and such. The short ram isn't going to help you much at all over the stock intake - so I'd probably toss the SRI and breather system you have setup and revert that all back to stock.
And again, you're not mentioning what other maintenance you've done. At -17 though I'm not thinking you're going to be hitting 30MPG though...
I have really been debating whether or not to put the stock back in. I didn't think about it bringing too much air in. I am going to get an oil change tomorrow. What oil do you recommend for this fantastic weather? Also I usually get 89( i think? ) and I usually go to flying jay or cenex. How do I replace the rotor and cap?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Apple Valley, San Bernadino County, Ca.
The cap and rotor are straight forward. Three screws to remove the cap, rotor pulls off, and install is reverse of removal. Oil I'm not sure. Someone with cold weather experience would know better than i. But i do know light weight oils are better. Like 0w-20?
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I also have new spark plugs ( 4-8 months old ), I still need to replace the spark plug wires though. I will replace the cap and rotor when it is less cold, and i am less sick. **** influenza is all I have to say. But it gives me a chance to sit home, research, watch tv, and not have to do anything. I am looking at getting NGK wires and once I install the stock box back in, getting a K&N drop in filter.
Your car should have 5w30 as the factory recommendation, 0w30 would probably be better for you during startup and you really should stay on top of oil change intervals. If you go synthetic you probably can go 5k miles without any issues to extend out that change period. I'd look at Mobil 1 Extended Performance stuff for a easy to get decent synthetic. It's at WalMart.
Technically 5w30 should perform at those temps you're seeing but at cold startup you may want to give 0w30 a shot. I'll let other guys chime in too if they'd like.
Also since you mentioned you replaced the spark plugs, make sure you're replacing them with properly gapped and good quality ones (NGK)
Technically 5w30 should perform at those temps you're seeing but at cold startup you may want to give 0w30 a shot. I'll let other guys chime in too if they'd like.
Also since you mentioned you replaced the spark plugs, make sure you're replacing them with properly gapped and good quality ones (NGK)
I was getting shitty gas mileage when I first bought my '90m Accord EX with an F22A4. This thing was sputtering, idle searching, all kinds of stuff. So, I did a full tune up (New plugs, wires, rotor, cap, air filter, oil change with RP full synthetic 10w30 due to my mileage and I live in a relatively warm climate, RP oil filter, new air boost valve, new FITV, cleaned throttle body). Tires are brand new with proper pressure. Still need to do the fuel filter and eventually drop a K&N filter in place of the air filter I got in the tune up kit. Next up will be replacing the o rings that fit around the spark plug valleys and doing a valve adjustment. But with what I've done already, there was a huge improvement in performance and gas mileage. I filled my tank, hit over 100 miles already and barely made a dent. Before I did the tuneup, I would fill my tank, and have to refill at around 220 miles.
Late reply, but in reference to the COLD outside temperatures. I like to install a higher temperature thermostat, 185 degree at least, my car gets better mpg when its nice and hot. Have even gone to the extreme and partially blocked the radiator with a piece of cardboard, anything to ensure coolant stays HOT in crazy cold good old northern weather, like 10 degrees or lower. Make sure your CoolanTempSensor is functioning properly too, not just your dash guage.
The answer to your question is to stop letting your vehicle warm up. It is stupid and wastes an unbelievable amount of fuel.....which is getting 0 mpg and reduces your true mpg. If you let your vehicle warm up 15 minutes a day that is 1 hour and 45 minutes in a week of the vehicle just sitting there with a constant stream of fuel. To me that seems blatantly obvious as to why your mpg is so poor.
Originally Posted by 19Accord97
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMuffinMan
There are about 200 threads regarding gas mileage and improving it, several on the front page alone.
.
I agree, it is pretty annoying when people don't search.
The answer to your question is to stop letting your vehicle warm up. It is stupid and wastes an unbelievable amount of fuel.....which is getting 0 mpg and reduces your true mpg. If you let your vehicle warm up 15 minutes a day that is 1 hour and 45 minutes in a week of the vehicle just sitting there with a constant stream of fuel. To me that seems blatantly obvious as to why your mpg is so poor.
Originally Posted by TheMuffinMan
There are about 200 threads regarding gas mileage and improving it, several on the front page alone.
.
I agree, it is pretty annoying when people don't search.
The answer to your question is to stop letting your vehicle warm up. It is stupid and wastes an unbelievable amount of fuel.....which is getting 0 mpg and reduces your true mpg. If you let your vehicle warm up 15 minutes a day that is 1 hour and 45 minutes in a week of the vehicle just sitting there with a constant stream of fuel. To me that seems blatantly obvious as to why your mpg is so poor.
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Also I put the stock intake on, minus the resonator that sits below. My fender liner on the RH side is torn out, so it sucks up snow and grime sometimes. Could not having a fenderliner actually decrease my mgp because the air is coming straight from outside the car and also it sucks up stuff?
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I also have 2 holes in my exhausr after the cat coverter from rust. The wholes are about the size of a quarter and make my car damn loud, but I am not sure if it affects gas mileage.
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