Running Rough After Timing Belt- '02 V6
2002 Accord 3.0 V6 J30A1;
The car was running beautifully before I changed the timing belt.
I followed the Haynes Manual step-by-step, apart from one thing: I unbolted the Crank position sensor, wiped it off, and put it back in it's home. I removed the old belt, transferred timing reference marks to the new belt, installed everything, turned the engine 6 revolutions by hand, checked marks, waited 20 minutes, spun it an additional 4 revolutions for good measure and everything was still in phase.
Im getting misfire codes on 4 cylinders, and P1399 (random misfires detected I believe.)
It was idling rough when I pulled it out of the shop, I thought it was possible that the tensioner could've sucked a little slack out of the belt. The following day I took everything back apart to see if anything was incorrect; nothing was, everything was still PERFECTLY lined up.
Attached are a few pictures of the timing marks.





I also unplugged the coils individually while it was running to see of there was a difference between the front/rear banks, every one yielded an identical change in idle when unplugged.
One additional thought: I thought it was odd that, when the belt was loosened and removed from the cam sprockets, neither of them moved (every other car that I've done a TB on one of the cams spins a few teeth fwd/aft)
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
The car was running beautifully before I changed the timing belt.
I followed the Haynes Manual step-by-step, apart from one thing: I unbolted the Crank position sensor, wiped it off, and put it back in it's home. I removed the old belt, transferred timing reference marks to the new belt, installed everything, turned the engine 6 revolutions by hand, checked marks, waited 20 minutes, spun it an additional 4 revolutions for good measure and everything was still in phase.
Im getting misfire codes on 4 cylinders, and P1399 (random misfires detected I believe.)
It was idling rough when I pulled it out of the shop, I thought it was possible that the tensioner could've sucked a little slack out of the belt. The following day I took everything back apart to see if anything was incorrect; nothing was, everything was still PERFECTLY lined up.
Attached are a few pictures of the timing marks.






I also unplugged the coils individually while it was running to see of there was a difference between the front/rear banks, every one yielded an identical change in idle when unplugged.
One additional thought: I thought it was odd that, when the belt was loosened and removed from the cam sprockets, neither of them moved (every other car that I've done a TB on one of the cams spins a few teeth fwd/aft)
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
I can't find anything that would cause four cylinders to mis when everything's lined up. I mean, if it was running fine before the job, it's got to be something in the process when replacing the belt.
About the cams moving a few teeths just when the t-belts slides off doesn't happen very much, but I've seen that couple times when I did mines. Nothing to worry about.
About the cams moving a few teeths just when the t-belts slides off doesn't happen very much, but I've seen that couple times when I did mines. Nothing to worry about.
Anyone have any ideas as to what it could be? I tried to get decent pictures of the timing marks, IMO they are flawless, but this is the first v6 that I've done a TB on. I called a local honda dealership, one of the service minions said that me moving the crank sensor to clean it could've caused the ecu to have a bad reference of TDC, but I find that pretty unlikely because (as seen in the picture) there is a dowel pin that aligns/orients it; if it did in fact move, it couldn't have moved more than a fraction of a degree. Dealership said I may need to do a Crank position relearn...
Anyone have any ideas what my problem could be?
Moderators, please mark this as 'Resolved.'
After searching for two days, and reading numerous posts saying that the CKP sensor was a likely cause, I decided to take it to the local Honda dealership to have the cam and crank sensors tested and have them do a CKP relearn. After about an hour of waiting, and $58 later, the tech came out and informed me that the timing was flawless, and all sensors were functional; but.... the coils on cyl #2 & #5 were producing insufficient spark. He said that they were on their last leg, and me removing them was disturbance enough to finally kill them. I went to the parts store, bought 2 new coils, installed them, and she runs like a champ now; problem solved.
Now that my dd/grocery getter honduh is fixed, I can return to building my project: turbo awd talon
DSM ftw.
After searching for two days, and reading numerous posts saying that the CKP sensor was a likely cause, I decided to take it to the local Honda dealership to have the cam and crank sensors tested and have them do a CKP relearn. After about an hour of waiting, and $58 later, the tech came out and informed me that the timing was flawless, and all sensors were functional; but.... the coils on cyl #2 & #5 were producing insufficient spark. He said that they were on their last leg, and me removing them was disturbance enough to finally kill them. I went to the parts store, bought 2 new coils, installed them, and she runs like a champ now; problem solved.
Now that my dd/grocery getter honduh is fixed, I can return to building my project: turbo awd talon
DSM ftw.
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