vehicle is a 90 crx dx
motor:d16z6/y8
mpfi to dpfii/ p28 obd0-obd1 conversion harness
using a obd2 9 pin distributor (used) just put a new cap and rotor on
y8 high impedance injectors / no resistor box
don't have o2 sensor plugged in.. but it should still start... ?

thats about everything i can think of as far as insight as mods go.

as far as wiring i used this one
http://hondaswap.com/swap-articles/d...writeup-49557/

timing marks are all spot on
fuel pump is priming fuel
and the main relay is clicking how it shouldwhen i put the key to on, and start, and when i let go.
i AM getting spark.
i AM getting fuel to the fuel rail.
injectors ohm tested 11.5-12.5 all 4.
now the CEL light doesn't come on when the fuel pump primes. and instead the battery light is on constantly.
i 've rechecked all my grounds. i put two together on the thermostat housing[clean surface] not sure what exactly they are. and of course the battery and engine ground(went to bolt on distributor
HOWEVER, when i put the noid lights in the injector clips and turned the car over. the noid light didn't light up evenly like how it's supposed to it was more of a sporatic light up.
i also volt tested the "power cable" (yellow wire ) on all the injector clips by using a chasis ground and it didn't read anything .. is it suppose to?
my buddy and his father (both highly respectable mechanics)have said that it may be a bad cam angle sensor or distributor.
just looking for some respectable feedback on the matter.

 

Is the engine turning over fast, slow, or normal?
Also, why are you using an obd2 dizzy if you're running obd1? Why not just run an I obd1 dizzy?

 

It's turning over normally. I'm using the obd2 dizzy because i got it for free with the motor. Which were thinking that may be the Problem. Possibly cam position sensor bad in it or something.

 

I'm not too sure about obd1 and obd2 but, in the obd0 distributors, they have the cam angle sensor inside of it.

 

Pretty sure obd2 does.. I had the dpfi obd0. And i had to solder the different clip anyway.. which is why i assumed I may a well use the obd2 dizzy

 

midnight ^^^

 

OBD2 distributor will work perfectly fine if you have it wired properly.

Sounds like you need to trace power and ground to the ECU.
It needs to light up when you are priming.

The ECU also provides ground to the injectors to fire them off.
So the failing noid light testing isn't much of a surprise.

 

4dref
-what needs to light up when i'm priming? the CEL?


after i posted all this today i:
i volt tested the power source (A25) and both power grounds and logic grounds AT the ecu, all read around 12volts.
double checked all my soldered connections to the injector clips
..only thing i can think of is the crank position sensor thats inside the dizzy? doesn't this tell the injectors when to fire? anyone else think this is a good possibility? or is there a way to test JUST the CKPS in the dizzy, besides throwing a new dizzy on there (which i may try tomorrow anyway..)

 

When you turn the key from off to ON(II), does the CEL turn on and then off after 2 seconds? If not, check whether the CEL bulb in the cluster has been removed or is blown.

Once you have the CEL working, jump the service connector to check for CEL codes. If any codes are thrown, write them down and then reset the ECU to clear the codes. Then crank the engine for 20 seconds to see if any of the codes repeat.

 

it doesn't even light up. i know it worked before the swap though. i'll check that tomorrow night if i get the chance.
just got off the phone with a friend who i'm going to borrow his 9pin dizzy tomorrow as well.

appreciate the input

 

You need the CEL working because it's an important diagnostic tool that may help you pinpoint the problem.

 

CEL doesnt work. even when i use the SVS cable on my harness it doesn't turn on. bulb is there, and i tested the plug that leads to the bulb on the CEL and no sign of any power..
even switched the battery light bulb and the CEL bulb before i plugged it all back in.
i did however find a blown alternator fuse under the dash, not sure how long that's been like that, the plastic/metal was all corroded and such. changed that out immidiately.
i'm really at a total loss right now. i'm not even sure wtf to start anymore..

 

Check whether 10A dash fuse 1 is blown.

 

finally got the working dizzy.. still no luck. i sat down tonight and literally wrote everything down that i changed around for the distributor. i went through and checked off each and every wire individually following it from the ecu pinout to the dizzy.
in case youre wondering these were the references i used tonight
for the dizzy:
http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1267482570
for the ecu :
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=90486

i found that my #4 CYPP and #6 CYPG pins on the dizzy were in fact. backasswards. fixed that. even switched the white wires around for the hell of it. (they're so similar in size) all this to still no avail.

injectors still refuse to light off.

my battery light is still showing as well. no check engine light still, no blown fuses. no signs of blown capacitors or corrosion on the ecu..? is it possible that could be blown?

 

Was the car running previosly? Or did these problems arise after doing this swap?

If the battery light stays on something is wrong with the charging system. make sure the alternator is hooked up properly.

also check all of your grounds especially the thermostat ground. Check the plug at the driver side shock tower where the resister box used to be.

 

just following through with the post! we got the car running!! err for the most part.. it was a combination of a faulty distributor that only liked working upside down.. AND somehow magically i beleive it was my cyp ground and my crank position ground wires were flip flopped. i checked over it ALL numerous tiimes and my buddy just de-pinned and randomly through it all back together and it ran.. fml

when i say for the most part i mean my number 3 cylinder is not firing. -.- haven't had much chance to look at it ..but theres that much! thanks everyone for the help.