My ABS are completely gone, I slam the breaks on on ice and it doesn't do anything. Shop said they were completely torn out in the back. I have no use for them and getting it fixed so I just want to completely remove it. How would I go about taking everything out? I know the ABS fuse box but what wires do I disconect and everything? I am a novice, thanks

 

Also want to get rid of any wiring that is essential only to the abs

 

Dude i personally would fix the ABS. I have used it many times in my civic due to lots of dirt road travel and icy conditions out here. That's just my opinion. If you want to remove it you have to take the ABS module out and put a proportioning valve in it's place and hook up all of the lines correctly. The wiring harness, just follow it along and remove the plugs/wires. But if the vehicle came with it the ABS wiring is going to be in the main engine harness and you will have to change out your ecm (i believe) so that you don't have a ABS light on 24/7


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hey thanks a lot, i also drive on icy roads a lot, as well as gravel. i am not a huge fan of abs and dont want to spend a lot of money getting it fixed. thanks for the input though, i guess it would be more of a hassle than it is worth


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No information as to what car you have or year.....

Or if you have your ABS light on, or if you do have it on and had it scanned for codes.

 

I was'nt a big fan of ABS either until i owned a car with it. Once i used it (at first intentionally) i realized that along with my really good tires that i shell out money for, it works wonders. saved my *** once or twice. For some reason people don't know how to drive down dirt roads, causes me to have to swerve off the road and slam the brakes. Without it i would just slide into my car's demise.

 

Well if you plan on only driving your Accord in the summer (like mine) you don't really need it. You would need to disassemble the main harness, remove the Modulator, remove the bulb from the dash, get a 40/40 proportioning valve, some 10mm-10mm and 10mm-12mm brake lines for the master cylinder, and front brake lines from a non ABS Accord, or make your own. Bleed and drive. I'm planning on removing mine here soon, its bulky, heavy, and looks ugly under the hood.

 

if you do decide to remove it, doing it exactly like NZXTInerTia said. and DONT buy the proportioning valve from the dealer, its 265 bucks (mine blew up) so go to the junk yard and get one. and be grateful its not a chevy, you would have to buy a master cylinder too.

 

Well some people do replace the master cylinder, because there is a 10mm and a 12mm fitting on the ABS and the OEM hardlines for the non-ABS are both 10mm. I will most likely be getting two custom braided lines when I do mine.

 

There is already a proportioning valve on your car.

 

I was under the impression that the proportioning Valve was built into the ABS module.


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Yes they're built into the modulator. Thus allowing your brakes to work when the ABS doesn't.

No there isn't, at least not an independent unit. There is a piece that joins the ABS hard lines to the rear brake lines in place of it. You need a 40/40 Prop valve and the matching mount for your car.

 

Removal of the system would require some significant modifications. If it is not working and you don't want it then leave it how it is. The wiring is all inside your main harness, and you would have to re-plumb most of your brake lines.

I live in Idaho so I always get to hear rednecks talk about how they can stop faster without ABS. I always tell them how impressed I am that they can pump their brakes 100 times per second on each wheel individually.

 

ABS is to avoid wheel lockup and performs better than most people can brake. Threshold braking is still going to stop you quicker.

 

hey thanks everyone, wow i totally hate when people list things without telling their car. That was my mistake lol. It is a 1995 honda accord ex with the f22b1

 

It would be more of a pain in the *** to remove instead of fix.


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Not if your modulator is shot... You just need a junk yard and a nice weekend, besides almost every vehicle based anything is determined by your own skill level, well and some confidence in your work.

 

I would actually like to keep abs if my car came with it. My 10th anne cb7 had abs, :/ it was crap! But thats because it was technology from the early 90s for a mid 90s car maybe its worth keeping???

I too was going to convert till I wrecked the car

**** me that reads confusing

What i mean is if it works and its operable i would keep abs, if it doesnt work da9 cb7 abs then i would toss out the abs.

 

I know that the SCCA did not allow ABS except in certain Showroom Stock and Touring classes. I never really understood that. The other day I was trailing by brakes into a turn and I could feel the ABS starting to cut in. I was wondering if the ABS read the slower-moving inside front wheel as if it were starting to lock up and metered off some pressure?

 

I am looking to disable the abs on my 1991 honda accord se. I have never liked having them (I got the car in 1998). I tried stopping with them once in the snow and almost crashed. I went back to pumping the brakes which you do more slowly and deliberately. Since I learned to drive in the snow this way (in 1978) this is how I will drive.
Now, the abs motor runs for 5-10 minutes and then when it finally shuts off the abs light comes on. It's really annoying and I just want it disabled.
Any help out there for me?

 

Sounds like your ABS pump is weak and can not build the pressure needed to get it to shut off. Pull your ABS fuse(The big one) or unplug the pump. Should quiet right down.

 

Hi, in my jdm Accord'01 abs work predictably. ABS brakes better on snow and sand. But one day due to an empty battery abs refused ... so I caught up with *** RAV4 ...
I mean that when there abs - the system should operate. If the abs does not work properly - it is better off to not hope for her ...

 

Wut.