JDM K20A Type R Swap on 02 EP3 (SI Body)
I have an 2002 Honda Civic SI currenty with an RSX A3 motor in it, aftermarket exhaust (custom), aftermarket intake. Im looking to swap it out with the JDM Type R motor swap but I am not sure how scoped of a job it is. I plan on swaping and possibly throwing turbo on later because I know the K20a can take it with no issues, the K20a3 is just to weak, and dosent even have true VTEC. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
remove old engine. replace with new one. add kpro. done. if i were to go through all that i'd just throw in a k24.
not sure what you're really asking?
not sure what you're really asking?
Why the do you feel I should put a k24, and what Im trying to get at is whether or not to do this swap.... I originally was gonna put new pistons and rods into the a3 but I feel that the K20a type r is better to go with. I found on for $5,200 with everything and only 12-27k miles on it. Im new, and Ill admite Im a noob when comes to k series and swaping
also I wanna make it clear of my intentions... I wanna swap the motor with the type r dc5, use type r ecu and harness, stay with oem axles and tune later with kpro.. I just need to know is it worth spending 5k on?
you can find a k24a2 longblock, which is the best k24 in stock form, for 1500-2000. drops straight in with a crv passenger side mount bracket and swapping over some sensors and will make more power and torque with simple bolt on's and a tune.
it truly is the engine that should have come in these cars from the factory.
it truly is the engine that should have come in these cars from the factory.
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So does the k24a2 come as a complete swap and can i use my 5spd tranny with it.... and does it come with true vtec.... i never knew about the block till you mentioned it
I see that the k24a2 redlines at only 7400rpm, why do you feel this is better than the type r motor, i mean its definitly cheaper and kicks ***, i agree it shouldve of been in the ep3... but the type r kicks *** tooo
2004-2008 Acura TSX, JDM CL9 Accord Type-S, RB1 Odyssey Absolute
Displacement: 2,354 cc (143.6 cu in)
Power: 200 PS (150 kW; 200 hp) @ 6800 rpm
Torque: 232 N·m (171 lb·ft) @ 4500 rpm (166 lbft @ 4500 rpm U.S.)
Bore: 87 mm
Stroke: 99 mm
Compression: 10.5:1
Redline:
Automatic 7100 rpm
Sequential Sportshift 7300 rpm (7100 rpm U.S.)
Manual 7600 rpm (7100 rpm U.S.)
Note: The 2006-2008 K24A2 in the U.S. market Acura TSX has the following improvements[3]
Power: 205 hp @ 7000 rpm
Torque: 164 lbft @ 4500 rpm
Increased intake flow:
Intake valve + 1 mm oversize
Intake cam High lift lobe with 0.9 mm more lift and 12 degrees more duration
Throttle body increased from 60–64 mm
Radius on some intake pipes increased from 70–80 mm
Increased exhaust flow
Exhaust Head pipe increased frm 60–65 mm
Higher flow catalytic converter
Main (single) exhaust pipe increased from 54–57 mm
Rear (twin) pipes increased in diameter from 42.5 to 45 mm
Block improvements:
Additional air passages in crankcase for reduced pumping losses
Other
Stronger connecting rods
New crankshaft with more counterbalance weight
Revised pistons with more valve-piston clearance
2004-2008 Acura TSX, JDM CL9 Accord Type-S, RB1 Odyssey Absolute
Displacement: 2,354 cc (143.6 cu in)
Power: 200 PS (150 kW; 200 hp) @ 6800 rpm
Torque: 232 N·m (171 lb·ft) @ 4500 rpm (166 lbft @ 4500 rpm U.S.)
Bore: 87 mm
Stroke: 99 mm
Compression: 10.5:1
Redline:
Automatic 7100 rpm
Sequential Sportshift 7300 rpm (7100 rpm U.S.)
Manual 7600 rpm (7100 rpm U.S.)
Note: The 2006-2008 K24A2 in the U.S. market Acura TSX has the following improvements[3]
Power: 205 hp @ 7000 rpm
Torque: 164 lbft @ 4500 rpm
Increased intake flow:
Intake valve + 1 mm oversize
Intake cam High lift lobe with 0.9 mm more lift and 12 degrees more duration
Throttle body increased from 60–64 mm
Radius on some intake pipes increased from 70–80 mm
Increased exhaust flow
Exhaust Head pipe increased frm 60–65 mm
Higher flow catalytic converter
Main (single) exhaust pipe increased from 54–57 mm
Rear (twin) pipes increased in diameter from 42.5 to 45 mm
Block improvements:
Additional air passages in crankcase for reduced pumping losses
Other
Stronger connecting rods
New crankshaft with more counterbalance weight
Revised pistons with more valve-piston clearance
2001-2005 JDM Honda Civic Type-R (EP3)
Displacement: 1,998 cc (2.0 L; 121.9 cu in)
Bore x Stroke: 86 mm (3.4 in) x 86 mm (3.4 in)
Compression: 11.5:1
Power: 215 PS (158 kW; 212 hp) @ 8000 rpm
Torque: 200 N·m (150 lb·ft) @ 7000 rpm
Redline: 8600 RPM
i-VTEC Engagement: 6000 RPM
Displacement: 1,998 cc (2.0 L; 121.9 cu in)
Bore x Stroke: 86 mm (3.4 in) x 86 mm (3.4 in)
Compression: 11.5:1
Power: 215 PS (158 kW; 212 hp) @ 8000 rpm
Torque: 200 N·m (150 lb·ft) @ 7000 rpm
Redline: 8600 RPM
i-VTEC Engagement: 6000 RPM
and who cares about rev limit? i can honestly tell you every time i take my k20 to 9k i'm scared of something breaking.
if i can make the same power i am now with 1-2k less revs i'd jump all over it. which is what i am doing by putting together a k24. it can still see 9k with the right mods.
I feel that the other reason you would want a JDM ITR K20A engine is because you're a JDM fan boy....
Yes the Redline is lower but the torque you gain makes up for that. If you want the high RPM redline then find a K20Z1 from the 2005-2006 RSX or build a K20A2 from the 02-04 and drop that in.
Yes the Redline is lower but the torque you gain makes up for that. If you want the high RPM redline then find a K20Z1 from the 2005-2006 RSX or build a K20A2 from the 02-04 and drop that in.
I feel you and, I am a fan boy for the type r, but one thing about the k24a2 build is that it isnt a budget build, you need to have money and if you dont have the money now then you can expect not to be driving the car for a few months.... Im on a budget plain and simple and the type r seems the quickest and easiest way to get some bang in my ep3.... I definitly will build a k24 thou, probably next year
I feel you and, I am a fan boy for the type r, but one thing about the k24a2 build is that it isnt a budget build, you need to have money and if you dont have the money now then you can expect not to be driving the car for a few months.... Im on a budget plain and simple and the type r seems the quickest and easiest way to get some bang in my ep3.... I definitly will build a k24 thou, probably next year
Listen man... I'm just going to be plain out honest with you... you seriously have not done enough research and unfortunately do not know what you're talking about. If you want to talk about budget builds at K20A ITR engine is not a "budget" engine... that is a name brand engine... but the problem is there are much better engines out there for a lot less. I am on my 3rd K24 and the highest I paid for any of my engines was $2300 with warranty. Now take that price, add the whopping MISC parts you may have like a crv bracket and hoses, and that's about it and you're at tops $2500. So where does your budget $5k engine beat what dood and I are trying to tell you?
I was on the cover over Honda Tuning Magazine as was called a "Trend Setter" in the K24 swap world. But you don't have to take my advice, go ahead and swap in your K20A over priced TypeR fanboy club engine and be on your marry way. I'm simply saying it's an over rated motor. The K20Z1 is pretty much IDENTICAL to the K20A engine and you can pick that up a lot cheaper. Hell the K20Z3 engine even...
When you're doing your ITR engine swap let me know if you need help with anything. BTW you have Kpro right?
ha ha bro your right it sounded mean but thats what I needed, so I went to hmotorsonline.com and I found a few k24's on there... It would be greatly appreciated if you can help me choose, and whats all needed for the swap... oh and apologies Dood and type-spaz... I def feel where your coming from, and I dont wanna go the type r route... K24 here i come....
www.k20a.org
check out the motors for sale section at the bottom. k24 longblocks for good prices always pop up. try to find an 06-08 k24a2.
check out the motors for sale section at the bottom. k24 longblocks for good prices always pop up. try to find an 06-08 k24a2.
Ok guys my father has kept arguing with to keep my a3 motor and redo internals and throw turbo w/ 20psi or so... what do you think, i was for the k24 but he say why take a perfectly good motor out if u dont need too, i told him for a better motor.. let me know what you think
Ok guys so I have the K20A3 motor and I'm in a debate right now whether to put pistons and rods on it, and swap the head...
First off pistons and rods are an easy job... but as for the swaping of the head, is it even possible with the k20a3 bock... i wanna put an A2 head on it and of course I'll be purchasing Kpro, but I need some more Info on this mod
First off pistons and rods are an easy job... but as for the swaping of the head, is it even possible with the k20a3 bock... i wanna put an A2 head on it and of course I'll be purchasing Kpro, but I need some more Info on this mod
you've heard wrong, dont listen to people, do your own research and find answers for yourself...however i would change rods, piston and the crank if you want to benefit from swapping the a2 head on the a3 block


