Engine Rebuild: Question about intake gasket.. which one?
Hello,
I am rebuilding a honda accord F23A1 engine. In support of the rebuild I purchased a rebuild kit that included just about everything... including two separate intake manifold gaskets. The two gaskets are completely different and one matches the one exactly as the one I removed. However, it doesn't look like it is the correct one. The guy who machine my block and rebuilt the head showed me that it had been rebuilt once before. So, I am thinking that maybe the wrong gasket was used. I am attaching the photos and differences I saw when putting it together, Gasket #1 is the one that matches the original gasket I found, Gasket #2 is the one that looks like I "should" use.
The Intake side of the block:

The intake manifold:

The block with Gasket #1 installed

The block with Gasket #1 installed, along with Original Gasket:

The intake manifold with Gasket #1 installed:

The block with Gasket #2 installed. Looks like all holes line up:

The intake manifold with Gasket #2 installed. Looks like all holes line up:

Any advice is most appreciative.
I am rebuilding a honda accord F23A1 engine. In support of the rebuild I purchased a rebuild kit that included just about everything... including two separate intake manifold gaskets. The two gaskets are completely different and one matches the one exactly as the one I removed. However, it doesn't look like it is the correct one. The guy who machine my block and rebuilt the head showed me that it had been rebuilt once before. So, I am thinking that maybe the wrong gasket was used. I am attaching the photos and differences I saw when putting it together, Gasket #1 is the one that matches the original gasket I found, Gasket #2 is the one that looks like I "should" use.
The Intake side of the block:

The intake manifold:

The block with Gasket #1 installed

The block with Gasket #1 installed, along with Original Gasket:

The intake manifold with Gasket #1 installed:

The block with Gasket #2 installed. Looks like all holes line up:

The intake manifold with Gasket #2 installed. Looks like all holes line up:

Any advice is most appreciative.
Last edited by SnoopyMan; Feb 11, 2013 at 07:13 PM.
That intake manifold is not the match for that particular head.. I would say that someone ether replaced the cylinder head or the intake manifold during the last rebuild.
Those ports on the intake manifold are part of the fuel injection air control system (FIA). The head would have the corresponding ports if it was a FIA equipped head. You want to use gasket No.1 to cover those ports if you are going to use that head.
If the injectors that you are using are also FIA injectors, corresponding holes in the injector nozzle covers. If those ports are not completely closed off it would be a source for a vacuum leak.
Those ports on the intake manifold are part of the fuel injection air control system (FIA). The head would have the corresponding ports if it was a FIA equipped head. You want to use gasket No.1 to cover those ports if you are going to use that head.
If the injectors that you are using are also FIA injectors, corresponding holes in the injector nozzle covers. If those ports are not completely closed off it would be a source for a vacuum leak.
GhostAccord,
I do not understand. I feel you may be onto something, or know what you are talking about, as the machine shop tech told me the head had been worked before. I did receive two gaskets in the kit, but of course I used gasket #2 as it lined up with everything so well... of course I didn't fully comprehend what is going on here.
I found a post from you back on 4/24/08 that seems to discuss the same issue:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/idle-still-bouncing-2284816/
The small holes in the intake manifold are for FIA, and the head is not FIA equipped. So, I need to use gasket #1. However, gasket #1 will not completely cover the holes of the intake manifold; which is why I did not use it. In your earlier post I think you recommended sealing the port openings with RTV, should I? I assume there will some leakage if I did not.
I thought the four small ports is where the fuel came out of from the injectors, and it went into those trapezoid ports of the head, where it eventually made it to the intake ports. From you earlier post I can see that the injection is behind those holes, directly into the intake ports.
The engine is in the car now, with just four trans bolts, so I can still fix this... easily... I hope.
Thanks for the help,
Snoopy
I do not understand. I feel you may be onto something, or know what you are talking about, as the machine shop tech told me the head had been worked before. I did receive two gaskets in the kit, but of course I used gasket #2 as it lined up with everything so well... of course I didn't fully comprehend what is going on here.
I found a post from you back on 4/24/08 that seems to discuss the same issue:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/idle-still-bouncing-2284816/
The small holes in the intake manifold are for FIA, and the head is not FIA equipped. So, I need to use gasket #1. However, gasket #1 will not completely cover the holes of the intake manifold; which is why I did not use it. In your earlier post I think you recommended sealing the port openings with RTV, should I? I assume there will some leakage if I did not.
I thought the four small ports is where the fuel came out of from the injectors, and it went into those trapezoid ports of the head, where it eventually made it to the intake ports. From you earlier post I can see that the injection is behind those holes, directly into the intake ports.
The engine is in the car now, with just four trans bolts, so I can still fix this... easily... I hope.
Thanks for the help,
Snoopy
Last edited by SnoopyMan; Jan 25, 2013 at 08:16 PM. Reason: I re-read the reply and relized the three larger holes are where the studs pass through. And it made more sense to me
I am sorry, I have to apologize and correct my above post. Your head does have the FIA control chamber on it. Therefore you will want to use the #2 gasket.
Just out of curiosity, Did you notice if the engine ran a little lean before you tore it down? Those ports could have been like 4 vacuum leaks directly into the injector ports with that old gasket.
Just out of curiosity, Did you notice if the engine ran a little lean before you tore it down? Those ports could have been like 4 vacuum leaks directly into the injector ports with that old gasket.
GhostAccord,
I don't know if there was a vacuum leak previously. It's my kids car, which he pruchased after his car was totaled. It was not so hot to begin with, it came off a lot where it looked like they flipped cars from auctions, did as little as possible, and resold them for quick profits. It had abuot 140K miles on it and was about $2,500, it ran okay to begin with, but after a year it started to run very rough and wouldn't get up to highway speed. A mechanic performed a cylinder conpression test on it and one of the cylinders came up zero. I assumed the rings where bad, as the car burned a lot of oil. I never rebuilt an engine before, it was a bucket list item for me, so we decided to forge foward and attempt to tackle it. If I knew then what I knew now, I could've got away with just rebuilding the head and left the engine in place. The issue with the head was a blow exhaust valve which resulted in the zero compression. I had a compression tester, so I could've done additional tests during the compression test and more positively identified the possible causes, but I thought for sure it was rings... now I have no idea why.
Anyway, you think that the gasket #2 is correct? So there is no nead to swap it? That's a good thing, cause those bolts are a little difficult to get to.
.
Thanks for you help and information, it is greatly appreciated.
Snoopy.
P.S. I realize that other head I posted is the exhaust side, so that doesn't help.
So,
I don't know if there was a vacuum leak previously. It's my kids car, which he pruchased after his car was totaled. It was not so hot to begin with, it came off a lot where it looked like they flipped cars from auctions, did as little as possible, and resold them for quick profits. It had abuot 140K miles on it and was about $2,500, it ran okay to begin with, but after a year it started to run very rough and wouldn't get up to highway speed. A mechanic performed a cylinder conpression test on it and one of the cylinders came up zero. I assumed the rings where bad, as the car burned a lot of oil. I never rebuilt an engine before, it was a bucket list item for me, so we decided to forge foward and attempt to tackle it. If I knew then what I knew now, I could've got away with just rebuilding the head and left the engine in place. The issue with the head was a blow exhaust valve which resulted in the zero compression. I had a compression tester, so I could've done additional tests during the compression test and more positively identified the possible causes, but I thought for sure it was rings... now I have no idea why.
Anyway, you think that the gasket #2 is correct? So there is no nead to swap it? That's a good thing, cause those bolts are a little difficult to get to.
.Thanks for you help and information, it is greatly appreciated.
Snoopy.
P.S. I realize that other head I posted is the exhaust side, so that doesn't help.
So,
I wasn't going to say anything about the picture of the exhaust ports...lol 
As long as you have the FIA solenoid and the vacuum hoses hooked up you should be good to use your #2 gasket.

As long as you have the FIA solenoid and the vacuum hoses hooked up you should be good to use your #2 gasket.
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GhostAccord
Car is starting but I am seeing some issues with a misfire on cylinder #2. I was wondering if it could be related to choosing the wrong gasket...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/engine-rebuild-first-start-many-problems-3121494/
Car is starting but I am seeing some issues with a misfire on cylinder #2. I was wondering if it could be related to choosing the wrong gasket...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/engine-rebuild-first-start-many-problems-3121494/
Update:
Misfire is resolved. I performed valve lash adjustment, and remembered to put my gas cap back on; it was removed to relieve pressure to disconnect fuel rail.
Parts Manager confirmed gasket#2 was the correct gasket for this car, after reviewing GhostAccord's comments.
Misfire is resolved. I performed valve lash adjustment, and remembered to put my gas cap back on; it was removed to relieve pressure to disconnect fuel rail.
Parts Manager confirmed gasket#2 was the correct gasket for this car, after reviewing GhostAccord's comments.
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