like it says, i can only find p28 ecu p08 are hard to come by, will it still work for a N/A jdm d15 vtec setup? thank you ahead of time

 

Hey, I cannot speak from experience but I believe it will work and here's why, I am using a P08 to manage a D16A, which is the JDM equivalent of the D16Z6. At the moment I am trying to smog my car and I've replaced nearly everything in attempt to get it to pass, everything, except the ecu.

Where are you? If you are in the bay area I'll swap with you. The reason being, I am hopeful the p28 will help my car pass smog.

 

Hard to find? I just found 8 on eBay.

 

Will work just make sure you are using a 4 wire 02. The P08 uses a one wire and the p28 a 4 wire.

 

the p28 ecu will work, if you want get it chipped with the p08 basemap

 

I've been running one for the last 5 or 6 years and it always ran fine and got excellent gas mileage. Just make sure you run the 4 wire O2 sensor.

Note that this only applies to the OBD1 version.

 

Thanks for the feedback, so I can run a p28 unchipped? I currently am running mpfi obd0 with a single wire o2, how would I convert that to 4 wire? I also have the rywire obd0-obd1 conversion and vtec wiring.

 

Yes.

 

I am going to use a p28 in the meantime until I find p08, I just bought a new distributor obd0 for the mpfi swap I did, the obd0 and obd1 are both 7 pin distributors with different plugs one round and one square,

Can I still use the obd0 dist?

Also can someone point me in the direction of converting to a 4 wire o2(is that necessary?)
Thanks

 

Never mind the o2 sensor deal I do have the rywire harness all I need is a 4 wire o2 from the auto parts.

Still on the obd0 distributor dilemma, I do not see why I could not use the obd0 dist.

Also, the injectors(obd1)i need to use do not require a resistor box?in which I currently have

 

No.

Trigger wheels for the cam, crank and TDC sensors are different and wont work with the ECU. It also wont bolt to head unless you hack up the mounting flange. You need an OBD1 distributor (OBD2 is electronically the same as well, but OBD1 is the only variant the correctly bolts up to a Z6/Z1/D15B Vtec head)

Either run 240CC OBD0 injectors and keep the resistor box or run OBD1 injectors and remove it.

 

Trigger wheels for the cam, crank and TDC sensors are different and wont work with the ECU. It also wont bolt to head unless you hack up the mounting flange. You need an OBD1 distributor (OBD2 is electronically the same as well, but OBD1 is the only variant the correctly bolts up to a Z6/Z1/D15B Vtec head)



Either run 240CC OBD0 injectors and keep the resistor box or run OBD1 injectors and remove it.[/QUOTE]

Ok great thanks for the info, it makes sense now the obd0 won't work, ill change that out and continue with the swap and will post back if I have more inquiries

 

Update, where could I find out the bore ,and thickness of the head gasket I should be using. (Since it is the same casting I believe of the Z6, onto a d15b block) thanks for feedback.

 

D-series engines all have the same bore. Use a Z6 or Y7/Y8 gasket simply because they're 3 layer steel and the D15B7/D15B8 gasket is graphite/composite and much more prone to failure (the stock D15B vtec gasket is 3 layer steel the same as a Z6)

 

Thanks for that 94eg8 I did get a gasket 3 layer steel, now I've came across a proposition...

I'm now dealing will all this timing belt bs, and am thinking of keeping my timing belt which is fairly new and in great condition, and swapping out the stock d15 timing gear with the vtec timing gear purposely to eliminate the whole timing belt bs. Is this practical? because I do know that the vtec has 104 teeth I believe. Thank you

 

Let me see if I understand this. You have a non Vtec timing belt from a D15B2/D15B7/D15B8 and you want to use it on the D15B Vtec? No that wont work. 1.5L non vtec timing belt is 106 teeth. The OBD1 D15B Vtec timing belt is 103 teeth. If the tensioner is good order a timing belt and water pump for a '92 - '95 VX. If the tensioner is bad you can try running a D16Z6 belt (104 teeth) with the matching tensioner (same style as the D15B Vtec, but with a slightly larger roller)

Make sure you know exactly what D15B Vtec you have before you order any parts! None of this applies to the OBD2 version that seems to be a lot more common now.

 

Ok question answered, the most difficult part of this whole swap is. The timing belt. I've heard so many different things that will work, I already have a new water pump and tensioner, so I see no reason to replace those, I already ordered the wrong belt and returned it and I don't want to buy a cheap belt would rather spend more and get more, so just clarifying I need a 92-95 timing belt, and I can keep my tensioner? Thanks

 

You already have a waterpump and tensioner for what though? If they came from a non-vtec D15B variant they will not work on a D15B Vtec. You can't buy the correct tensioner for that engine in North America, the closest is the D15Z1/D16Z6 tensioner that uses a slightly larger diameter roller. A lot of guys claim to run that tensioner with a D16Z6 timing belt which is 104 teeth.

With the original tensioner the correct belt is the 103 tooth '92 - '95 Civic VX belt.

You're being very vague about what parts came from where. If you could just post a picture of the engine so I knew exactly which D15B Vtec you have (and there are several) that's your best bet for getting the correct info.

 

The D15B - The most famous motor for being the biggest pain in the *** for identification. There's what, 7 different versions?

 

I can think of at least 5 off the top of my head. The ZC is worse though. 8 different versions and they're all stamped simply ZC.

 

Sorry if I'm being very vague I can't put my thoughts down on paper for sh*t. The reason for it all is new, is the because about 15,000 miles ago I had my engine (d15b2)rebuilt by a mechanic(who ripped me off on other jobs and has since gone out of business) it is a daily driver I don't race it's nice to have upgraded power for my commute.

My whole plan is to install this P08 vtec head onto this b2 block(d15 jdm single stage vtec that is all I know) that I bought off a buddy of mine that upgraded to a b-series, it ran fine before he pulled it out.

I am mechanically inclined I have had a few projects and always helped my buddies with theirs, this swap is not difficult for me considering this is my first Honda. However I am stumped by this whole timing belt deal. I cannot seem to understands the concept of changing out the tensioner from one model, timing belt from another model, and water pump? Or am I confusing myself for no reason? In a perfect world in which we do not live, I would just want to keep everything I already have and make-do with what I got. Sorry for any confusion and thanks for feedback

Correction to d15b2- that is what it was factory I believe, the mechanic could have swapped it for another to rebuild, it is simply stamped D15b

 

Ah, so it's not a D15B Vtec at all. It's a mini-me with a D16Z6 head.

Use a Z6 timing belt, you can keep your current waterpump and tensioner. Make sure you remove the oil jet between cylinders 2 and 3 or you wont have vtec.

 

No sorry I do not know why I didn't state that I didn't have a vtec block, and I already removed the oil jet, so I can simply use a z6 timing belt, exactly what model would that be off of?

 

'92 - '95 EX/Si

 

Ok so it's 104 teeth correct? And would anyone recommend a way to remove the crank pulley, the Haynes manual makes it look easy