Honda Gurus-

Seems like my Accord is misfiring, I can feel raw gas like smell coming from the muffler(Just Installed a new muffler, Walker 18562).

There is no CEL, though, if I am on a light or at a complete stop, feel like a little bit weird vibration/shake, if I put the car in Neutral or Park, vibration seems to go away, but I can still feel a misfire, with a weird bang bang noise coming from the muffler area---kinda hard to explain.

Any help, input or advice would be greatly appreciated

Thanks Guys!

 

First thing to check is see what cylinder is not getting spark. I would replace the cap, rotor, plugs (gap them properly), and wires. The reason it seems that you smell gas from the exhaust its because its not burning.


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

 

How can I check that? I can see that spark is coming in all the wires, by pulling the boots and seeing the spark. Is there any other way or I am not doing it right?

I have replaced the Spark plug wires, no improvement.

Just ordered, Dist cap/rotor, NGK Spark plugs, Valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. Any other troubleshooting I can do, while waiting for the parts?

My emission is due in 2-3 months, if I drive it like this for say 2 weeks? Any chance I can create any problem for the emission or cat converter?

Any help is always appreciated

 

Yeah if your running oil or fuel through the cat constantly it will fail. Do a compression check then if your sure your getting spark. You pulled the plug wires off while it was running? What color was the spark? You can rent told from O'reilly and AutoZone that allow you to check for spark and test lights for the injectors.. Come to think of it if your getting spark but smelling gas. One injector might be suck open. Try tapping on all of them while the car is running. Don't be afraid to hit them kind of hard. That might work. If it does then you know that an injector is stuck and which one


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

 

Just do a tuneup like you already planned with the new cap rotor and plugs and see what happens.

 

Thanks for the update but if there is an issue with the injector, there should be a CEL or Idle issue, or no?

Thanks for the input, am planning to do a compression test, as well as pressure test on the radiator, to see any possible issues?

What should be the compression on all '4' cylinders?

 

Standard compression F22B1&2 is 178. Minimum is 135 and maximum variation between cylinders is 28psi.


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

 

Thanks, is there any requirement for cold engine or warm one?

Thanks again, I am gonna search and research it before testing it.

 

Mine is doing something similar, with no CEL as well, but if i get my rpm to around 4 or 5 while running, it would give me the CEL for O2 sensor.

 

No the car doesn't have to be warm or cold. Preferably cold, before the rings warm up. UN plug all of your injectors and leave them UN plugged till the test is complete


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

 

Well, my situation is different, mine runs like a charm when it's around 2.2 or 2.5, having issues below 2 or 1. Though, I never get any CEL and still not getting any. Another thing to note is, on a cold start, initially car runs really ROUGH and when it warms up, much much better, any thoughts?

92 civic ex 4dr, by unplugging you mean, Spark plugs, right? Is there a way, I can make sure that there is no issue with Injectors, I have just finished a full tank of premium=91 gas, along with iso-heet.

Thanks Guys

 

No. When your doing a compression test you want to UN plug the injectors. That way the cat won't start and your not dumping fuel into the cylinders. It runs rough cold? Could be compression rings, or even the coil pack. But do the compression test after the car has been sitting overnight while it is cold


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

 

Do you think these are valid steps, in terms of Ranking:
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f55/...n-test-124194/

Thanks for your input and help.

 

Unless you swapped a h22 in your accord, there's no need to fill up your car with premium. Just wastes of money and accumulates more carbon since it's can't burn 100% of it. Oh yeah don't forget to change the pcv valve too.

 

No, it has stock F22B1, more carbon, but where?

Yep, thanks for the input about PCV valve, just bought it

 

Alright guys, I have tested the compression on the cylinders:

Cylinder Dry Wet
1 200 220
2 181 220
3 180 211
4 138 154

What do you think? Any possible issues or red flags with the engine?

Plugs are almost gone, going to do a full tune-up to improve the that weird sound, which is driving me NUTS!

Any help or thoughts?

 

Cylinders 1&2 are running high compression for that engine and 2&3 are relatively close and #1 is on the low side. The high compression tells me that there is a lot of carbon buildup. You can run good gas (76, texaco, Chevron, shell) through the system at the manufactures recommended octane level (87) for a couple of tanks and drive the **** outta it (high revved) to break up and blow out some of the carbon deposits. After that re do the compression test. Running a engine at high rpm's and getting the internals hotter (without overheating) loosens up carbon and doesn't allow more to build up. As was stated by another poster, using higher then recommend octane causes carbon buildup because the engine is not a high enough compression to burn all of the fuel. Also run a fuel cleaner through the system with the good gas. After you have re done the compression test (after using good fuel and cleaner and driving it hard) re post the results. Sometimes cleaning the internals and driving it hard can loosen up stuck piston rings which cause low compression.


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

 

I'm sorry. I meant #4 is on the low side not #1


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

 

I was just thinking about it and remembered. My accord ran **** on 91. After a while it started to miss fire. Reason was because there was so much carbon buildup that it was essentially a high compression engine. After the carbon all cleared out it started the miss fire because i was running too high of an octane. Once i used 87 it was back to normal and running great. (i also ran half a tank of 111 octane leaded through it at 8.00 bucks a gallon, though i don't recommend that)


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

 

Thanks for your advice and help, I always use '87' gas from Costco/Shell/Exxon, got the car @~169k, since then have changed the oil/filter religiously at 3k.

Why and how so much Carbon, because it's an old car with many miles or?

I can drive it hard, but it's an Automatic, so it will go to certain RPM and then change the gear, any other idea to run at high RPM, Maybe D3 or 2?

I filled the tank today and poured Lucas fuel injector cleaner, not sure how good or efficient it is, but will see before I do the tune up next weekend.

Another thing to note, when I pulled the Spark plugs(NGK Platinums) out for compression test, there was no Tip left on 2/4.

Any other thing I can try before the tune up next weekend?

 

well i hate driving automatic's. so i treated my accord like a ******* stick shift. pulled it into first and then once i passed the red line and hit 7,000 rpm i pushed it into second and so on. i also did a lot of hill/mountain pass climbing so it stayed in 3rd alot while i was blowing up the hill at 90-100 mph. The best fuel i have found for "cleaning" the internals is shell. and then to keep it clean use 76, chevron, texaco. Shell (at least for me) doesnt really last long for the best fuel mileage but cleans and keeps clean.

 

I will try to use your advice, going to update you guys after the tune up.

Keeping my fingers crossed that it will help and improve

 

Something is wrong with cylinder 4. You should have a leakdown test to figure out what is causing the issue with that cylinder.

Also, you can just unplug the 15A ECU fuse in the engine bay fuse box to disable both spark and fuel since the ecu has direct control over them and you're disabling the power to the ecu.

 

Sorry for the delayed response, that's what I did, just pulled out the 15A(ECU/Inj) fuse to run the compression test.

Leak down test, can I do by myself, any issue if I keep driving like this?

Update 1:I replaced the spark plug wires, nothing changed, replaced spark plugs with NGK V-Power(Previously had NGK G-Power), Car is running like a CHAMP now, everything is much much smooth

Rough start, slight vibration at light and misfire(Bang Bang) issue also seems to go away, I am planning to replace the Valve cover Gasket/Spark plug tube seals and Cap/Dist-O-ring/Rotor/PCV valve/EGR Port cleaning this weekend.

Will keep you guys posted, thanks a TRILLION for all of your help, guidance and support.

 

Final update on the car, cleaned all EGR ports(full of GUNK!), replaced dist-o-ring, PCV valve/grommet, rotor and dist cap were fine, so didn't replace it.

Car is running like a charm, thanks a million guys for the help, guidance and support.

No more vibration, or rough start and passed the emission test yesterday with flying colors