Hey all. I just swapped a D15Z1 into my daily driver (my other car is a 3000GT VR-4 with twin 60mm T3/T4 turbos, aka not economical :-P). The reason for doing so is because I was driving along one night and the timing belt shredded. I believe the PO likely didn't change it at 120k (not sure what the service interval is for these cars, though). Anyway...

I made a complete wiring harness, as the car now has a P07 ECU as well (holy tedious....) However, attempted to fire it up, and it was a no-go. Tomorrow I'll put an oscilliscope on the sensors to ensure they are giving feedback, as well as the spark plugs and injectors.

So I suppose the question is... which sensors are necessary for the car to start? I'd like to get it started and then iron out the details. Thanks in advance!

Set up:
Car: 91 CRX HF
Engine: D15Z1/P07
ECU and intake manifold: P07

Set up summary:
D15Z1 swapped into '91 CRX HF


Set up problems:
Engine will not start. Has compression.

What I have done to set up:
Complete engine wiring harness, which appears to be satisfactory

What I want is:
Which sensors are necessary for the car to start up so that I can get the engine running without testing every little thing?

 

The D15Z1 was designed for high fuel efficiency.

Start with the basics:

CEL codes?

Fuel pump prime?

Spark at plugs?

Mechanical timing correct?

 

No clue on CEL's, didn't notice.

Fuel pump primes.

Didn't check spark yet, will do that tomorrow (though I swear I can hear it attempting to fire)

Timing is on. It has compression.

 

Do check for spark. It should be bright white. OBD1 codes are pulled by jumping the service connector.

 

tried sending you a response to your pm... your box is full.... but just to answer you.. your hf has a egr but the d15z1 requires the black blox from the vx beccasue it deals with the ecu and ignition for that motor... if you dont have the black box the swap wont work right... the hf egr is different than the egs one

 

Can you send me a pic? Asking price?

 

No spark. I'm going to double-check the cylinder position, crank angle, and TDC sensors.

 

TDC, CKS, and CYP are all wired correctly. Still no spark. Which wire provides power to the distributor?

 

Also, another question - does the D15Z1/P07 use the resistor pack for the injectors like the old engine did? I wired the D15Z1's injectors into the resistor pack (for forward voltage) and grounded to the specific ECU pins.

Or, should the injectors be wired to the main relay instead for forward voltage?

I guess what I'm asking here is... does the D15Z1 use low impedance injectors like the original engine did?

 

Have you jumped the service connector to check for CEL codes?

The distributor gets voltage on the Blk/Yel wire.

Stock D15Z1 injectors do NOT use a resistor pack. But this should not prevent spark.

The injectors get voltage on the Yel/Blk wire from the main relay.

 

Okay, thanks, I will remove the resistor pack. However, I'm seeing another weird happening - the ground side of the injectors has +9v when the plug is removed. In addition, when the distributor plug is removed, the pins (chassis side) corresponding to TDC-P, CKP-P, and CYP-P all show +9v as well, though I believe they are also supposed to show battery voltage.

Also confounding... just like the injector ground showing +9v, TDC-M and CKP-M ALSO show +9v with the plug removed. It appears as if my sensor ground has a positive 9v.

The main (black/yellow) does show battery voltage.

 

What are using as ground in your voltage tests?

What voltage do you read on the injector Yel/Blk wire?

Distributor sensors are tested by resistance with the key off.

 

I used both chassis and battery ground - same readings

I read 12v on the yellow/black wire (which is actually red/black since it's from the resistor pack)

I will re-check, however, I don't believe the ground portion should show a voltage at all, especially when not connected to anything. The pin that showed 9v connects directly to the ECU's TDC-M pin. It only did this for two of the sensors - TDC and CYP.

So, TDC-P, TDC-M, CYP-P, CYP-M, and CKP-P all show 9v.
CKP-M and the Yellow/Green wire show no voltage (ground).

I pulled the ECU and checked for leaky capacitors or anything that would cause a short, but found nothing. It's an exact 9v, so it's coming from a regulated power source. Fluctuates very little between 8.97V+ and 9.02V+.

 

Good news
I realized G101 wasn't connected. Connected it, and it fixed the issue with the sensor grounds having +9v
Bad news
Main voltage (Black/yellow) now also has 0v with the key in the ON position. o_O Oddly enough... the black/yellow wire going to the distributor has battery voltage still. However, injectors have 0V.

There are no CEL's, btw.

 

That's odd. The fuel pump should not have primed with G101 disconnected. Check your wiring job carefully.

 

Also interesting is that I've seen literally three different pinouts "for" the P07 ecu, all of which have slight differences (i.e. one claims ICM power comes from A21/A22, one says it comes from A24, another one says A21/A22 as well, but has differences from the first one...). Oh the lols I'm having.

 

I checked everything on my conversion harness (OBD0 to OBD1) and all of the pins are mapped to where they should be... next step, I suppose, is to remove the engine wiring harness and cut it apart to check all of the connections, as I didn't make it and it appears to be custom. I don't trust other people's work....

 

Also, the black/yellow wire I'm referring to when I say it has 0v is the upper right hand pin of this connector. The black/yellow on the opposite side (upper left pin, thicker wire) has battery voltage. When I jump the wire to provide it battery voltage, I can hear a relay click on the firewall, and the injector plugs receive battery voltage on the pins that they are supposed to.

Where does this pin derive its power from? Whatever relay, etc. that typically provides it power is clearly malfunctioning for whatever reason.

 

So now my engine bay looks like this.... but it runs!!!

I completely de-loomed the engine wiring harness and re-wired a lot of things I found amiss - one important thing being the white ignition wire.

However, I need to re-visit the fact that there is no power going to the pin I described in the last post. The engine will only run if I jump the wire. So, once again, where can I trace this wire back to??