pretty much i was looking into buying a piston/rod combo and was pretty set on BC sportsman rods. I was just wondering which rod to go for the standard weight sportsman or the "lightweight" version of the same rod.

parts #s are BC6019 vs BC6057

Also if going to 9k rpms is it worth upgrading to the BC6029? and going with the ARP Custom Age 625+ fasteners which come on the BC6029 BC625+ rods, compared to the sportsman's ARP2000 fasteners. Ive read that if your going to 9k it might be a good idea to upgrade to the stronger bolts. Any input?

Thanks for any input given.

(engine will be a 84.5mm CSS'd B20 /w B20 crank with CP piston around 11.0-11.5 cpr, stock B18c1 head for now this is my first step :p, but planning on supertech springs/ret, ferrea valves, PnP, and pro2 cams)

 

If you're staying all motor and not spraying I would go for the lighter rods, and always get the strongest fasteners you can, especially if you're rev'ing the motor out; that's where most of the failures will happen.

 

the engine will be sprayed in the future when i have enough money for the direct port kit. Right now im just setting-up the block. Recently bought a b20 block that i am currently in the process of stripping down to get ready to send out for the CSS process by Cncwerx for added piece of mind(plus its cheap! lol) so once thats done ill be swapping short blocks on my currently installed JDM b18c1... End-game goal for the engine is 200hp+ N/a(E85 or 93 havnt decided) /w 150-200 direct port wet shot with a gal fuel cell /w C16(just for spray) being sprayed 2nd-4th gear only a few times a month if that.

 

any other opinions?

 

ttt

 

to be safe, you should go for a rod that weights around 500 grams if youre gonna spray alot. Its still will be somewhat light for all motor. If its gonna be a special occasion thing then id go for the BC6052 rods since they are light as hell. also a lil tip, if you plan to run E85, do at least 11:5 compression to get more benefit of it. Im also lookin at these rods since i found a place to get them pretty cheap. I looked into K1 lightweight rods which are 475 grams, another option. CSS is another good thing, if you dont do anything else look into that. Good luck man, keep us posted.

 

thanks for the input, not much has really ben done as of late... i bought a stock b20 short block got it disassembled and package to ship out to cncwerx for the CSS, but ive just been really busy with work and getting my car as it sits ready in my eyes for honda day this coming weekend so this is where most of my concern has been. After honda day i will go back into the mindset of building this short block....

as of late ive been looking into p2w clearances on the 2618 pistons. i want to run it a little tighter then what most companies recommend i think. maybe something like .004-.0045 instead of like .005-.006 like most ive seen. Just a lil worried using stock sleeves that the piston slap when cold will increase the wear rate on prob the weakest part of my planned setup.... other than that no real updates.. sorry thou i did save a decent amount more $ so i might be able to squeeze some headwork in while doing the block

 

If the motor will be using nitrous frequently I can kind of see what you have planned out here. But if this is 99% street driven I think you have your build all wrong. Too much focus on the bottom end and not enough on the important parts. HP per dollar is very weak on this one.

 

IMO, better to build the block right while you're doing it and add other stuff later. It's not as difficult to swap cams or even the whole head down the road as it is to pull the whole motor because you want to beef up the bottom end, especially since the OP already has a second block he is working on.