99 auto awd crv
bought it about a year ago and has idle issues

i did a tuneup on it. took it for 5 hour trip and my wife drives it every day to work

since we had it its been funky withthe idle rpm

after initial rpm surge on startup it almost dies and goes back to somewhat low idle.

if i load the elecrical system it dips notticeably

and dips when put in neutral.

i took apart and cleaned and tightened FITV
and cleaned IACV as well. it worked ok for a while.

now that its below freezing the car actually died few times when my wife drove it

new air filter new plugs new cap/rotor
car was always serviced at honda 1 owner since new
and i didnt see any records of idle problems

it has 210k

 

Had the a/c been serviced by the previous owner?

 

Not sure why. Its disengaged most of the time. Its below freezing now
Old lady did whatever was needed.

 

There are 2 2prong plugs using the same plug design in close proximity of each other, the symtoms you dircribe are the same if these plugs are interchanged, it's worth a shot. is the plastic sheathing on the iac wires ribbed or smooth?

 

im confused what are you talking about. the iac and tps sensor wires or AC wires?
i know about tps sensor mixup i never unplugged it

 

Do the wires going to the IACV Have a plastic sheathing that is ribbed or is the sheathing smooth? Switching the wires is a very easy mistake to make that is made by Honda dealer "techs" relatively often.

 

Did you adjust the throttle linkage? It's probably something electrical since you said under electrical load the rpms drop

 

I don't think this has anything to do with the TPS. Do you have power to the IACV plug? If not ,try turning on the a/c and check the IACV plug for power again. As I said this is a long shot but I've seen it a couple of times before.

 

theres power i can feel it click when i unplug it.

im thinking its just old and busted just dont have any to replase it with

would worn out rings cause anything like that?
or any other internal engine issues?

i mean its 210k on the motor

 

no....

 

YES!!!! ??

 

Are you using much oil between oil changes? 210k is nothing on a moderately well cared for CR-V. On my three rigs I have 152k, 256k and 290k and fully expect 400k or more. Were you able to check the wire sheathing/protectors as mentioned before? The clicking from the IACV you are hearing is a little puzzleing, mine have a very faint "whirrr" with the ignition on when plugging it in.

 

went to drive it today and when put from idle to reverse the car almost dies and goes back to normal idle
from reverse to any other gear car also dips rpm and goes back to normal.

im thinking its definitely iacv

sticky torque converter would hang the low idle for longer if im not mistaken.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't thoroughly clean the IACV. Squirting stuff in there isn't enough, you have to actually manually actuate it, clean the cylinder, etc. with q-tips plus some cleaner. How much time did you spend cleaning yours? (don't count the time of removal and re-installation)

 

i did about 5 of them already with sucess

spray the cleaner while its warm and running

then pull it off and spray untill i dont see any black stuff coming out and let it sit for few min.

and then do it again when installed back and warmed up.

 

Yeah... I think my way is better as it's more thorough. When I did it, when manually actuating it, I could hear it grind like as if there was sand in there so I cleaned it until it was spotless on the rotating part (mind you I have the IACV for an Y7) and I could hear it quietly move. I also soaked the IACV in carburetor cleaner and waited, then poured it out and scrubbed it some more with the q-tips until nor more gunk could come out. I find just spraying stuff in there won't do a damn thing. In fact, my IACV was so stuck that I had to break it free manually before I could start cleaning it.

An IACV that moves intermittently or gets partially stuck could easily cause this problem. Maybe you could try swapping this IACV with another one if you don't believe me.

 

now its also very hard to start.

i was cranking it for about 10 seconds and finally started after about 4-5 times.

 

What's it do when you unplug the IACV? Idle it and un-plug the IACV see what happens.

Whenever I've cleaned mine I take them apart and use tb cleaner. even taken a brass wired brush to the actuator inside. get that thing spotless.

Did you take it completely off when you cleaned it? Does air in the coolant lines cause it to malfunction? just a thought. definitely sounds like a IACV problem. I'd also look for a vacuum hose being disconnected. If you can find another IACV to drop in just for testing purposes I'd try that as well.

EDIT: Nvm i was thinking of the IACV on a TJ jeep i cleaned you could take the actuator out of the housing on that one.

 

checked it again and it is clean inside. theres no buildup

checked distributor cap and rotor and that sht was old and had sand on the bottom of the cap WTF!!!

the points on the cap were so worn out that when i broke off the crusty it broke off half of the thickness of the point.

replaced cap and dizzy but it still has low idle.

last few days its been really shitty. it barely starts when cold i have to crank it for like 10 seconds each time and it doesnt even try to run untill im on 3-4 times cranking.
i hear fuel pump priming.
and it accelerates great no stumbling at all.

is it possible for the coil to get weak from having worn out rotor and cap?
and MAP sensor is plugged in correctly. its clipped on the wire harness from the factory to make sure people dont mix them up. theres no way to possibly stretch them unless you unclip it.

 

in the service manual, there are specifications for the ignition coil and its wires in terms of ohms... Use a multimeter and measure the ohms to see if they're in spec or not.

Btw guys, you can't test the IACV by disconnecting it if it's the 3 wire IACV, that procedure is only for the 2 wire IACV FYI!!!!!

 

what are other causes of this so i can start checking as well?

 

[QUOTE=fleabag;48447920]in the owners manual, there are specifications for the ignition coil and its wires in terms of ohms... Use a multimeter and measure the ohms to see if they're in spec or not.
Btw guys, you can't test the IACV by disconnecting it if it's the 3 wire IACV, that procedure is only for the 2 wire IACV YI!!!!! [/I,m pretty sure a 99 has the 2 wire IACV, and it has the same plug end as the p/s sensor located about 10" below the iacv. In an earlier post I refered to an a/c plug and that was a mistake on my part. If these two plugs are switch during servicing it creates the same symtoms you are experiencing. QUOTE]

 

OTHER CAUSES. meaning ANYTHING ELSE BESIDES WHAT HE MENTIONED IN THE POST YOU QUOTED.
you quoting without even taking time to read my question...
ac has never been serviced.
old lady always took it to same dealership and has a stack of papers down to replacing the windshield wiper motor and rear trailing arm bushings...
i didnt see anything there about idle issues either.
someone mentioned valves but wouldnt it throw a misfire code if there was low compression it would get picked up by crank fluctuation sensor ?

i clean IACV a bit different way.

once its soaked when warm turn the engine up and cycle max load and rev it up a bit.
iacv adjusts idle so it moves around then i spray some in the inlet it also moves at that time to keep the rp steady. no need to click it on and off manually.

 

Sorry to bother you.....good luck!

 

From what I know, cars with the automatic get the three wire IACV by default, maybe we can get some confirmation on this?