Here is how EVOL sits now (better pics)













What is going in (by time everything gets here) the start of feb.
Can get into "Some Specifics now" Instead of just saying what the plan is as the plan is put into motion and once its done I am going to have some parts to sell because I was just kind of going every direction trying to figure out what I wanted. Well here is what I will have this week...

(Head)
Toda built b16 head with ITR cams. I am not sure if it has been P&P'd and either is he. I guess when we get it to the shop we will crack it open and look for anything we can to see what all is in it (springs valves retainers etc)

(Block)
B18c1 gsr with 81.5mm CTR pistons

(Drivetrain)
2001 LSD Integra type R Transmission Usdm 4.4fd with stage 1 Exedy clutch and Flywheel.

(ECU)
Chipped p28 ecu, Still reading on what I want to use for tuning.

(Bolt On's)
Aem Short Ram
ITR intake Manifold
Skunk 2 Alpha Headers 2.5" collector
Invidia Test pipe 60mm
Apexi WS2 Catback 60mm with 70mm tip

Still have to find out what Injectors are in there & Throttle body.

Questions
1) I have read that the ITR IMF's are great and there is no need to swap them out for say like a Edelbrock performer X IMF?
2) If you are around Chicago Area what shop does best NA tuning? The motor & Trans are currently in the car now and tuned by Speedquest on chrome @ 187WHP.
3) What should I be looking for to get a little more power out of it RELIABLY?

Thanks ahead of time.

 

It's a good list, but if I could recommend a couple of things
2000 ITR spec cams, 68MM throttle body, 440cc RDX/RC injectors. What are you planning for engine management?

 

I am not sure yet to be honest with you, Most likely Hondata.

 

Very good list. I agree with the RDX injectors, but the rest seems ok.

 

Thanks Guys, Will do! Hoping I can get the injectors @ cost as well. As for the Hondata I only need the 1oo right? I mean it isn't like I am running something crazy agressive. Just a little more spirit

 

No. Don't think about it like that.. you want a quality tune, not just "what'll do". Get the right equipment. S100 won't run the good injectors that great.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I was told by everyone else that with such a mild build anything over the s100 is pointless.

Got another question. My car after 2 weeks and alot of driving (but just installing a test pipe a couple days ago) is throwing CEL's. I am sure it is because of the test pipe. What is the best way to solve the problem without running a high flow cat? I would imagine it is no different than my subaru's and can be taken care of VIA ECU when emissions rolls around after a tune. But figured asking wouldn't hurt be it all cars are not the same.

 

How is it that s100 "runs" the injectors any different than s300?

 

Ack Cant decide to NA or Boost =(. Before I forget this is for a 99 SI, (GOALS FOR THE CAR) 200+whp NA, A slightly Higher RPM "If possible without putting the motor in shambles or even risking.

-AEM V2 Intake $253.79
-Skunk2 Alpha Series Header 2.5" collector $339.99
-Invidia Test Pipe 60mm (own)
-Greddy Evo2 Catback 60mm (own)
-Skunk2 Pro-Series Intake Manifold *crinkle black* $245.99
-Skunk2 Alpha Series Valve Spring & Ti Retainer Kit $270.59
-Skunk2 Viton Valve Stem Seal Kit $24.59
-Skunk2 Alpha Series Throttle Body 66mm $102.49
-DeatschWerks Injectors 420cc $255.20
-Skunk2 Tuner-Series Camshafts (stage 2) $501.83
-Skunk2 Pro-Series Adjustable Cam Gears *Black* $200.89
-Exedy Racing Stage 2 Cerametallic Clutch Kit $350.72
-Exedy Racing Lightweight Flywheel $171.44
-Carbonetic LSD Carbon $759.20
*The Reason I picked 420cc Injectors is 550cc (from what I had been reading NA won't make a difference @ all) Truth in that? I only know what I read on the web, So if one of you has a built motor please stand up and help guide me. Greatly appreciated.
Comes out to - $3476.72 Before items listed Below. I was also Told I do not need a fuel rail that is correct right?

-Hondata S100 - ????
-Great NA Chicagoland Tuner - ????

If You were to raise compression for power?
What Head Gasket would you use?
Is it even Possible without having to crack into the B16 Block and put higher compression Pistons in?
If I did crack open the Block and put higher compression pistons in what would you go with? Size? Ratio?

Before Summer regardless I need
-new pads and rotors
-new Full suspension including strut & sway bars

So in the end I guess what I am getting @ is... What do you guys think? Suggestions? Will it just be flat out all around cheaper and better for me to boost? Remember this car IS a DD, Has to remain safe for EVERY SINGLE DAY USAGE. So I can't go all out and turn it into a race care yet. Thanks ahead of time.

 

I read up on it, Disco proves a pretty solid point. There is 0 difference in the way the injectors are run through 1-3. There is simply more options as you move up the line. Fuel Injection and Timing Remains the same it seems.

 

Spending 2ish grand tonight. For sure items, Apexi ws2 catback, skunk 2 headers, short ram or drop in filter. Out of my list what else would you buy?

 

Honestly, it looks like you're just wasting money on a lot of useless ****.
I'm not trying to be a dick, just being real. Shop around, you'll find better deals.

S100 is completely fine for your build, especially if you're having it tuned by someone else.

If I were you, I wouldn't throw all that money at an N/A B16.
You'll think it's great for a few weeks until you realize you're making a lot of noise and not going anywhere.
Use the money for boost. You can do a simple/reliable set-up that will be a lot more fun.
Lots of good info to read in the Forced Induction section.

 

I don't think I will find many better deals than what is listed above unless used, and if I do I am sure it will be very minimal as my parts are coming from motovicity. I think the car NA will be plenty of fun, I don't need or wan't the fastest car out there and have seen quit a few people that slapped on a bolt on turbo kit to they're civics @ low PSI and alot went wrong. I know that is why 99.9% of you say well build your own, Or did this or that wrong. The fact remains I am pretty dead set on 200 WHP NA. That is more than enough car for me for the time being. Having trouble figuring out if I want to run skunk stage 1 or 2 cams at the moment.

 

Do want to add that I do NOT dispute that the money spent to go NA over boost is simply retarded. Just so you know I am in 100% agreement with you.

 

Seeing what people say in the FI thread. I have read about many different builds, I am going to go with my idea and then go with the most commonly setup kits and price them both.

 

Looks like a nice build man keep it up

 

Why would you want to run a obsolete software to begin with..?

The s100/s200 are no longer support by hondata, they are also buggy as **** sometimes.

Crome Pro would be a better option then the s100/s200..

Want a real piece of software? You can get a RTP Demon board and neptune license for as little as 399.00 now and days, it does everything hondata does, but more..including on board logging which has been out, and hondata just only recently added.

Hands down the customer support and actual software you get is bar none with neptune. There's also eCtune as well.

Alittle research goes along way. Progression of software has come far in the last 3-4 years. I haven't used the s100 in years, but i dont even think it has the correct battery offset tables, some of the coding is skewed and its the same with the s200..

But thats just 1 tuners opinion.. , I suggest you talk to whoever is going to tune the car and use what he recommends.

 

Oddly enough he said Chrome and Neptune. I have read on the forums that Chrome gets buggy but I usually see people in the FI thread talking about that. Thanks for the input though, It's something to really think about. Thank you again. Time to read read and read....and read some more lol.

 

Can get into "Some Specifics now" Instead of just saying what the plan is as the plan is put into motion and once its done I am going to have some parts to sell because I was just kind of going every direction trying to figure out what I wanted. Well here is what I will have this week...

(Head)
Toda built b16 head with ITR cams. I am not sure if it has been P&P'd and either is he. I guess when we get it to the shop we will crack it open and look for anything we can to see what all is in it (springs valves retainers etc)

(Block)
B18c1 gsr with 81.5mm CTR pistons

(Drivetrain)
2001 LSD Integra type R Transmission Usdm 4.4fd with stage 1 Exedy clutch and Flywheel.

(ECU)
Chipped p28 ecu, Still reading on what I want to use for tuning.

(Bolt On's)
Aem Short Ram
ITR intake Manifold
Skunk 2 Alpha Headers 2.5" collector
Invidia Test pipe 60mm
Apexi WS2 Catback 60mm with 70mm tip

Still have to find out what Injectors are in there & Throttle body.

Questions
1) I have read that the ITR IMF's are great and there is no need to swap them out for say like a Edelbrock performer X IMF?
2) If you are around Chicago Area what shop does best NA tuning? The motor & Trans are currently in the car now and tuned by Speedquest on chrome @ 187WHP.
3) What should I be looking for to get a little more power out of it RELIABLY?

Thanks ahead of time.

 

Glad you went with the stage 1 clutch rather than stage 2.

Since you have a 2.5" header why not get a 2.5" exhaust? Doesn't Apexi make a 70 mm catback? You could also get a Hytech twin-loop for not much more. And if you do that, how about ditching the 60 mm test pipe for a 2.5 mm high flow cat? Test pipes are pointless on non-race engines.

I second a vote for NeptuneRTP. It still does one thing which AFAIK Hondata still does not -- direct serial logging, which I find VERY useful as long as you have an Innovate AFR gauge.

 

Another person for +1 neptune. I really have not read as much as I should yet about it because I have been so busy but I am going to tonight.

I based my whole exhaust off the catback and the want to keep it quiet so I went with as close as I could to 60mm all the way through, I read on some threads that the actual size of the headers collector was a bit smaller than 2.5" & 2.5" translates to 63.5mm so I know it won't be exact but I can't imagine it will choke up to much. (I should say I am trying to convince myself of that)

I looked into it before I ordered the WS2 and they make universal 70&80mm muffler which I could have ran & most likely Should have run a 2.5" all the way through and just pieced together my own 2.5" exhaust instead of just sticking with 60mm. I was also reading on here about high flow cats via search and alot of people talking about different brands and it seemed to be 50/50, Some people would have them burn out instantly and others would be going on a year + with 0 issues. So I was just like to hell with it I will get a test pipe and an 02 spacer to kill the CEL.

So I am feeding a 3.5mm bigger pipe into 60mm the rest of the way through. (assuming the thread I read was wrong about the collector on the headers) I guess when I get it up on a dyno after a few other little mods I will see how it turns out. Thanks for the response and the heads up on the EMS. I have been hearing nothing but good. Off to study it now!!!