I searched tons and tons on Google and here. Similar problems but not exactly my problem.

When I first start up my car it sits at like 300rpms and comes close to dying. After my car warms up it's all good. It's like it's missing that first initial rev up to 1200 to 1500 rpms and then settling down to 700rpm. I get about 25 MPG, mild black smoke out my exhaust. I burn about 3/4 of qt of oil every 500 miles. My engine has about 6000 miles on the rebuild. My car runs awesome after it's warm and going.

Here's what I have:

1994 GSR ITR Cams, ITR Pistons, ITR(Chipped P72) Ecu, Skunk mani, Full exhaust. EG6 intake.

Here's what I've done so far to fix the problem:
New IAVC
Reset my ECU
Checked for Vacuum leaks.

Here's what I plan on doing:
Changing spark plugs and wires
Clean my throttle body
Possibly buying a new ECU
Possibly new distributor
Taking it to a shop when I find one if I can't fix the problem.


All suggestions are appreciated. Please no negative comments.

 

Does it only act up when it's hot out? As in really warm weather.

 

The temp doesn't matter. This happens in cold, hot, everything.

 

That initial bogging in the morning is troublesome. Do you get it when the car sits for an extended period of time?

Does it smoke in the morning, white until it gets semi-warm.

Could possibly be a bad headgasket, leaking somewhere, or it's not sealed properly. Oil/Coolant getting on the head of the piston when it sits overnight, leading to a bogging in the morning. When it gets hot it disappears as it all burns off.

The smoking could be your piston rings? How long ago was the rebuild and what did you rebuild? Top and bottom?

 

It was rebuilt about 5 months ago. It was a in bay rebuild. So they didn't take the block out. My guy said that the cylinders walls look great. Yes I get it when my car sit for an extend period of time. Yes it does smoke a little right when I start it, but it does in the day as well no matter when I start it, if the engine is cold, I get a little, I'll look tomorrow when I start it up on the 2nd go around. The head was completely redone, new ITR pistons, rings, etc. I would be really upset if my build ended up being ****. I spent about 2k so you could imagine the anger I would be feeling. Plus this is my daily driver which would a make it even more unbearable.

 

I would definitely check that out. I had almost the same symptoms as you, then I did a rebuild, top and bottom. Although your walls may have looked good, the rings could have been going out or already worn. If that's the case, then it would be the cause of black/blue smoke at high RPM's, that's the oil blow-by past the rings.

The bogging in the morning is the thing that worries me, so yea, get a compression test. Perhaps it's one area on the block that was warped, or something, I'm hoping not.

 

I'll do a compression test tomorrow and see where I'm at. I'll report back on my findings. I had asked my shop to do a compression test after the rebuild but they never gave me the numbers, I forgot.

I only have a little white smoke in the morning, just a bit. As for the black smoke, I was told putting ITR Cams, Piston, and rings would cause a bit of oil burn. But like I said, I'll do a compression test in the morning and get back.

 

Dude I was just thinking it might be my:

Fast Idle Control Valve...it talks about how it puts air into the intake mani so the engine idle's faster until it gets up to proper temp. This is exactly my problem. But I'm still going to do the compression any how

 

I know it's better to do the cheap inexpensive things first, than tackle the larger things. I'm just saying to do a simple diagnostic, that will eliminate the biggest thing. I myself have a 2000 GSR, with a B18C1. Just had it rebuilt, you're in San Jose, did you get it rebuilt at a shop or someone's house?

 

Shop in San Jose

 

Actually I have a SKunk Manifold so I guess I don't even have a FICV. I'll check anyways but from what I read I don't have, or need one.

 

the FITV sits under the throttle body and u should check it out its easy to check if the hole in your throttle body has suction when the cars on the valves leaking and that messes up the idle worth giving it a try goodluck! and you should always hone and bore when doing a rebuild well so the machinist at the machine shop i work at says

 

Check the MAP, TPS, and ECT sensors. Check the IACV. Check for spark and resistance test plug wires. Check valve clearance. Check engine timing.

Those are good places to start.

Edit: also check fuel pressure

 

Okay so I did a compression test today. It's 225 across the board. I cleaned my throttle body. Check my plugs and wires. Cleaned my FICV. Readjusted the idle(because when I clean my FICV, I didn't mark it like I was supposed to , whatever it's fine now). So yeah I do have a FICV and yes it's on the TB.

I just have to let my car sit now and see if I have solved my problem.

And we'll go from there. I'm chime in later today on my results.

 

I would have honed and bored but honestly I didn't know the difference really. My engine's compression numbers were 145 across the board and my VTEC wasn't working at all. I should have done more research, or better yet, my mechanic should have explained it to me better haha. He's a good guy tho. Hopefully I'm good, ECU next, then mechanic after that.

I can't get wheels, referb my interior, master bushing set, or anything til my car is running good. Just me.

 

haha im sure the mechanic made the right call im no tech u know n oh forsure i agree first control then speed

 

Welp the fact that it does it all the time more or less rules out what was going on with mine. I might as well explain though. For quite some time I had mine running on an OBD1 ecu with a moates demon board and when it would get really hot out(for us 90 and up), and only when it was really hot out, the car would bog, idle rough, ect, during the first start up and act like it was going to cut out for about 5-8 seconds. After that initial period, it would be fine. I never did figure it out, but I can only assume it was something ecu/tune related because when I switched the setup over for it to pass emissions(re-installed the stock ecu and removed the aftermarket parts) the problem went away. As soon as I put the OBD1 ecu back in, the problem came back. It didn't really bother me that much because the car ran and still runs very well with zero issues. So, if you happen to have a stock ecu that you could just start the car up on laying around, it might be worth a try.

 

This is next on my list! I'll find out in the morning. I'll let everyone know how it go's.

 

Okay noob question. I have ITR internals. Do I need to be using a P73 Ecu or can I just use a GSR P72 Obd1 ECU? Or P72 Chipped ECU? Hopefully it will just start up nicely after all the work I did today. Ha!

 

You have done a lot to your car. Has it run correctly after the rebuild?

 

It depends on what you want to do. If you want to drive to the tuner and get it tuned, you'll be fine with a p72 map if you keep it in closed loop. If you want to drive it for a long time or go WOT, you should get a p73 map one way or the other. All that is assuming you've got ITR cams.

 

Okay, so everything I did yesterday was a fail. My car still starts like ****, but even worse the bouncing idle is back. WTF. I'm going to try a couple of more things and then I'm done. Off the mechanic. B.S. This **** drives me nuts. IHMFL

Yea I have ITR cams.