Hi, i need advice.

I bought unfinished H22A7 motor for very very good price.

Current parts:
Unported head
BC valvetrain
BC 100mm stroker kit
CP piston 14:1 CR
Darton sleeved block
BC Stage 3 cams
550cc injectors
Vibrant header 2.5" outlet
Motor will be tuned with 100 octane petrol

My target is about 250+WHP. I hope that it is achievable

Some questions:

Need I port and polish head to achieve this power?
I hope no, because here in my country is porting very expensive and not guaranteed gain.

What intake manifold and TB size do you recommend?
I'm considering between Skunk2 IM with 70mm TB and Rosko EuroR IM 68mm TB.

What do you think about rev limit for reliability? Annual distance traveled will be about 3000 miles.


Thanks for advice!

 

what size bore? It should be fair possible to meet this goal. You will need to do some head work at a minimum to actually see any benefits from the compression and fuel. I would maybe get a bigger size injectors like 750. TB you should try a slightly bigger like a 80mm. Intake manifold might be better a ported stock at least or go with rosko racing for sure. He actually might be able to do something great for you with the setup you have

 

Thanks. Bore is 88mm.

 

I'd see what it would cost to send it to America and get ported over here because you could get well above your goal

 

How much I can expect increase performance after porting? I don't need to get max power from this setup. Goal is above 250 WHP.

So what do you think about the reliability of this setup? Rev limiter?

Any closer advice on IM and TB?

 

theres so much more potential with that crank give it to me and ill give u my 95mm crank lol .. ill make 350whp easily with my parts ;-)

 

You can order this crank from BC

Do you have someone constructive advice please?

 

I think you will make 250 with a stock head no problem. With Skunk Pro 3s you will for sure. A good ported head will make probably 30 hp on a big motor like that with that much compression.

 

people are making 250 on stock block h22 90mm stroke. You should greatly exceed 250.
If I were in your shoes i would

Skunk2 Pro 3
Get Custom Intake and Header (Randy Owens/NAH2B on here, Jack Myers)
Head ported (RLZ, 4piston)

with those you should be over 300whp

 

I do though enjoy reading threads like this were the anticipated power number isn't an astronomical guess, and anything over the goal you will be extra pleased. You'll easily be there, and some.

 

Oh... and that is of course is ever more obtainable if you where running a B gear box.

lol... had to throw it out there.

 

Super, thanks good news.


I have BC stage 3 cams, why do u recommend Skunk2 Pro 3?
If I need to use "stock" IM and TB, what do u recommend? Rosko? Skunk2? What TB size?

250 WHP will be nice. More is better but priority is reliability.


Thanks!!!

 

you cant do it alone tho LOL

 

The bc cams are not that great. Like others have suggested, pro3 cams would be nice with that compression. I'm making over 250 with 12:1 and pro2s and 90mm crank.

 

im surprised nobody has mentioned you have the wrong engine setup if reliability is what your looking for. you said you plan to put 3k miles on it.

if you are really looking to put thousands or even hundreds of miles on this engine you better seriously rethink this build.

100mm stroke in the H series is not the way to go. you should go 95mm instead, it will give you plenty of reliability and with proper parts/tunning you have the potential to make 300whp+

aside from your build not being very reliable, you also have some mix matched parts which wont work very well together. are you looking for top end power for drag racing or is this a road race engine?

 

This is road race engine - my weekend car and sometimes track - project These are bad news for me What about lower rev limit for reliability 7200-7500 rpm?

This motor H22a7 has 55mm mains.

 

Damn, I did...totally read right past the 3K miles.

With all that you have listed it immediately sounded along the line of a nice drag motor.

NAH2B is right about rethinking you setup and going with a 95mm crank to reduce piston side wall and bearing wear characterists for long term endurance racing.

I would suggest lowering the compression slightly as well, you may get away with simply having the crowns machined of the pistons you have.

Compression creates power but it also creates heat and other things. For this engine to survive would require consumption of expensive oxygenated high octane gas, or there's methonal, in your case lots of it.

 

Just like NAH2B told you.. 100mm crank is NOT reliable for 3k miles!! Big NO NO

Apart from that:
- You don't need to P&P your head
- Lower your compression to 12.5
- You would benefit from a 3" exhaust
- TB size of 72 or even 74mm. Skunk2 or the Rosko IM are ok as long as they are matched to the TB size

Also in what shell will the motor go? You'll need good suspension, brakes, clutch, gearing, bars to make the car stiff if you're going to road race.

 

The shell is in the link in my last message. So breaks, suspension, bars ...this is not problem.


How long is the life of the engine with the stroker kit? Really this motor hasn't lifetime 3000 miles (max 7000) in mode - 80% street and 20% track?


What to change in my part list to make reliable street and race motor with 250whp+? Original crank(95mm with 55mm mains is problem to find/buy), rods i have from stroker bc kit, new pistons 12,5:1(my pistons are shorter becouse are from kit), stage 2 cams?

 

I'd say go with a lot less stroke as already said.,,,, But do up the head, try sell the crank n get a nice ported head. Pick up some power. U mite be able find a company with available core head to save u shipping one way,,

 

Thanks for advices. I will go with this stroker kit. I have confirmation from BC that if i use petrol oil and keep clearances that there is no problems with reliability. For my use 90% as weekend street car and 10% road race car it will not be a problem to reach 10000 miles. You must remember that that the kit has billet crank, Pro Series (BC625+) connecting rods featuring ARP premium fasteners, custom CP pistons and sleeved block. So i dont use oem parts. The rev limiter will be set to 7500 rpm.

 

Ultimately it is your decision. However the problem with big stroke is not the reliability of the crank or bearing as BC said.

It's the wear on the cylinder walls at high rpm with such a big stroke that's the reliability concerns.
Also there is no point in having those cams if you're going for 7500rpms. Stock cams make power untill 7800.

Just my 2 cents on your build. Good luck

 

Thanks Pippen.

Thanks for the suggestion about the cams. Sure that I will discuss about that with my mechanic. Maybe I'll rev more.

You can watch my progress here: My project

 

if u do plan on going with this build with the 100mm crank i hope you have a few spare sleeved blocks, piston rings, bearings etc handy cuz itll need rebuilding and maintenance often.

 

yes the crank may be reliable (although mine wasn't), however your cylinder walls and piston skirts will not be reliable. you are going to have way to much side load with that stroke for a mileage application. cylinder walls and piston skirts will wear quickly even at the lower rpm.

I will suggest sticking to 95mm one more time