wsup h-t i need help with my vtec
its not popping
its a gsr with skunk 2 manifold and skunk 2 throttle body
i got a chipped ecu no check engine light on.
check to vtec solenoid its all good and clean.
i tried wiring my vtec solenoid to the high beams to see if it cracks but it still doesnt.
any info will be apreciated
also some body told me it can be my vtec sliding pins? can any 1 tell me how can i check that
thanks alot!!

 

What base map are you on? Are you on a P28?
Are you good on oil lvl?

I doubt its your pins.

 

my oil level is good im on a gsr base map just the vtec is at 5500 rpm
the reason for the pins because i bought the head off craigslist and it has supertech dual springs and retainers

 

and its a obd1 p06 chipped

 

Do you know if the p06 was converted for vtec?

There is a way to hook up air to lock your vtec (to make sure they all lock in)
Or you can pull you T belt off and take out your rocker arms to inspect them.

 

yae its converted 2 vtec if i unplug it code 22 and 21 comes on. i checked my oil pressure its at 30 idling at 75 pass 3k rpm

 

ECT sensor? Your Vtec wont engage if the motor isn't at operating temp.

 

What.............the hell..

 

lol

 

go to your tuner and have him plug in his master ECU with your chip in it.

 

take a wire and strip both ends. remove the one wire connector at the solenoid. run one wire to battery. touch the other to the solenoid pin. if it doesnt snap crackle pop, you have a bad solenoid

 

my car warms up no check engine light for the ect sensor. and i ran the 12v positive to vtec solenoids clicks all the time.

 

can it be my oil orifice cause wen i flipped the block over the orifice fell off and i just threw it back in not knoing if it was important and just slapped the head back on

 

Ya dude that orifice is there specifically for vtec. Mine wouldn't work because after I ported head the solenoid screen clogged up with metal shavings. Cleaned out screen and boom, was good to go again.

 

By the way the orifice has an o-ring around it that needs to be there. There is also 1 o ring for each camshaft between each top plate and cam hold-downs (with valve cover off). If those are missing oil is not going to the top plates which have only 1 function, to supply vtec oil. I would look in there after the screen.

 

thx bro i meant the oil orifice on the block that one is loose like it jsut falls off loose. ill take apart the head when i get the chance to get a new ring for that hopefully it works. and the 1 o ring for each camshaft u talking about can u send me a pic cause i dont really get wat ur trying to say lol sorry and thx again!

 

Won't let me do attachments, but I googled "honda b series cam torque specs", selected images. Kind of fuzzy, but it shows an exploded view. The top rails run all way across each cam. Carefully pull those off and center cam hold-down has o ring on in and exh. Also, center cam holder has one under it which I forgot to mention, right between the cams. Only 2 other o rings for vtec are on timing belt side under the last cam holder. Each cam has a specific dowel pin w/o ring that holds rocker shaft in place, so don't mix those 2 up. So a total of 5 o rings on top of head+ orifice o ring in the block under head. Please be sure to retorque the cam holders in sequence recommended, cuz I've heard bad things if not done correctly.

 

thx bro it was the oil orifice under the cam caps number 1. when i got the head it didnt come with it and i didnt notice

 

No prob, glad I could help! Happy VTEC'N!

 

Another mystery solved! Most VTEC failures are self inflicted.