Ok so i have this tucked OBDI harness that i got off a guy...its a very nice harness with all new wires that match the colors of the stock OE harness. Basically im just trying to get my fuel pump (walbro 255) to PRIME, because after that ill be just about finished with my build and i cant start putting it back together again.


So far i tapped: (the last picture)

A7= FLR
D1= VBU
b10= VSS

Then tapped the yellow/black wire (IGP1) on the driverside 14pin plug. (first pic)

Bolted down my my Tstat ground.


Not to sure were the 3black/yellow wires and the solid black wire go. (second pic)





Does anybody know the other plugs to tap to make my pump prime with the key?

 

The harness and the car...

 

So a G2.

Does the PGM-FI Main Relay "click" at all when you turn on the ign.?

If not, drop the PGM-FI Main Relay and test for powers, [there are 3] and ground..

Black is ground
There will be a 12V constant, [hot at all times] yellow/white.
There is a 12V switched, [hot in run and start] black/yellow.
There is also a 2nd 12V switched, [hot in start only] blue/white.

The two yellow/blacks are relay outputs, one is from the fuel injector relay, it is hot as long as ign. is on, [run and start].
The 2nd yellow/black is from the fuel pump relay, [hot only when ECU/ECM supplies a ground, [green/black]

The yellow/black output from the fuel injector relay runs to a junction and is split to the 4 injectors, to IGP1 and IGP2 at ECU/ECM and to the IACV and heated O2 sensor. 94

 

OK, SO.......over the week i got the pump to prime by being a cheater, i stuck a fuse in between 5-7 on the main relay. Come to find out the pump installed 6 months ago has a leak, droped the tank and fixed it. Now i get fuel to the rail and the injectors are getting 5 volts along with other sensors with no visable leaks, great. I still cant get it to prime with the key though, there are NO CLICKS when turning the key (using 3 diff. relays)

I know that the problem is in my harness not being wired up right or not fully wired up.

On the ecu just 98% of the pins are getting 12v, IPG1 & IPG2, all fuses 12v, engine bay sensors 5v, ect.

Is it possible to have my harness tapped into the wires on the main relay itself?

I tried to make a "quick disconnect" with a cannon plug from my old obd1 engine harness but none of the colors match, and the colors that do match are in differnet locations.

these are some things ive been looking at for the last few days . While also surfing the web night and day i ran into FCMs comments quite frequently, always has great info. Thanks for the help here and on honda-tech


Hope some of this helps solve my problem..

 

If the PGM-FI Main Relay does not click at all, there is either a bad ground, [black lead] or no power on the ign. input lead, [black/yellow] to the PGM-FI Main Relay.

The yellow/white should be 12V+, [hot at all times].
The black/yellow is switched 12V+., [hot in run and start].
The blue/white is switched 12V+, [hot when cranking to start only].

Sorry, I am confused at the numbering of the PGM-FI Main Relay plug, [that is the white plug above your meter] is it numbered from the relay side, black being #2, [ground] and yellow/white being #1, [12V+ hot at all times]?
If so, then #3 blue/white should be 12V+ when cranking to start.

The two (2) yellow/blacks are the injector relay and fuel pump relay outputs, the fuel injectors output will be hot when ign. is in run and start, first click you should hear when you turn on the ign., the second click will be the fuel pump relay turning on, the clicks are very close together and can sound like one click, try holding the PGM-FI Main Relay when turning on the ign.

The fuel pumps output will be hot as long as ECU/ECM supplies a ground, [green/black] to the PGM-FI Main Relay.

Also, I am not sure what plug you are testing in the pic. 94