98 civic - brake pressure issue
Wondering if i could get some ideas to help me figure this out... Sorry its a long history of what happened this past weekend.
98 civic LX 4dr
History - Bought the car not long ago and it had no rear brakes, and E-brake did not work.
Removed drums thinking the shoes were bad, found no springs installed when last brake job was done as well as the shoes were in very bad shape.
Installed new shoes and all new springs. When installing new shoes on driver side a piston popped out of the cylender, so i had to bleed the system. Passenger side bleed valve was stripped off and couldnt get it to budge with vice grips, so i replaced both rear cylenders and bled all 4 corners.
was going to take the car for a test drive but no brake pressure at all once the motor was running.
Did some reading online and most pointed to the master cylender being bad.
Replaced the mater cylender (yes i bled the MC before someone asks) and bled the brakes till all fluid coming out was new and clean at all 4 corners...
Brakes work now, but pedal does not have the same pressure it had before. It feels very spungy.
Is it possible there is some air still in the lines even tho i bled the system till it was all new brake fluid coming out? A friend of mine suggested there may be air trapped in the proportioning valve?
Any input would be helpful.
also, before someone asks, i bled in correct order, starting with the passenger rear.
98 civic LX 4dr
History - Bought the car not long ago and it had no rear brakes, and E-brake did not work.
Removed drums thinking the shoes were bad, found no springs installed when last brake job was done as well as the shoes were in very bad shape.
Installed new shoes and all new springs. When installing new shoes on driver side a piston popped out of the cylender, so i had to bleed the system. Passenger side bleed valve was stripped off and couldnt get it to budge with vice grips, so i replaced both rear cylenders and bled all 4 corners.
was going to take the car for a test drive but no brake pressure at all once the motor was running.
Did some reading online and most pointed to the master cylender being bad.
Replaced the mater cylender (yes i bled the MC before someone asks) and bled the brakes till all fluid coming out was new and clean at all 4 corners...
Brakes work now, but pedal does not have the same pressure it had before. It feels very spungy.
Is it possible there is some air still in the lines even tho i bled the system till it was all new brake fluid coming out? A friend of mine suggested there may be air trapped in the proportioning valve?
Any input would be helpful.
also, before someone asks, i bled in correct order, starting with the passenger rear.
For those of you with a soggy brake pedal after caliper installation, here is the CORRECT bleeding sequence:
Bleed the brakes:
Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front.
You do not go farthest to closest with Hondas.
Always bench bleed the Master cylinder when replacing the master cylinder, ABS unit, or proportioning valve.
Bleed the brakes:
Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front.
You do not go farthest to closest with Hondas.
Always bench bleed the Master cylinder when replacing the master cylinder, ABS unit, or proportioning valve.
If you can't find any fluid leaks from the MC, calipers, wheel cylinders, or lines, then there's almost surely a little air left in the system.
For bleeding, did you have a buddy press the brake pedal down after you opened the bleeder screw and then hold the pedal down until you closed the screw, repeating this pattern multiple times for each wheel?
For bleeding, did you have a buddy press the brake pedal down after you opened the bleeder screw and then hold the pedal down until you closed the screw, repeating this pattern multiple times for each wheel?
If you can't find any fluid leaks from the MC, calipers, wheel cylinders, or lines, then there's almost surely a little air left in the system.
For bleeding, did you have a buddy press the brake pedal down after you opened the bleeder screw and then hold the pedal down until you closed the screw, repeating this pattern multiple times for each wheel?
For bleeding, did you have a buddy press the brake pedal down after you opened the bleeder screw and then hold the pedal down until you closed the screw, repeating this pattern multiple times for each wheel?
that's correct but sometimes might be this problem from the mc maybe its weak
For those of you with a soggy brake pedal after caliper installation, here is the CORRECT bleeding sequence:
Bleed the brakes:
Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front.
You do not go farthest to closest with Hondas.
Always bench bleed the Master cylinder when replacing the master cylinder, ABS unit, or proportioning valve.
Bleed the brakes:
Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front.
You do not go farthest to closest with Hondas.
Always bench bleed the Master cylinder when replacing the master cylinder, ABS unit, or proportioning valve.
all the bast man
When you do a complete brake overhaul (or close to, like you did) and still have air in the lines, it's generally a good idea to use a reverse bleeder. It basically pressurizes the system and forces air back up through the BMC.
Either that, or go through a couple quarts of brake fluid to get the air out.
Either that, or go through a couple quarts of brake fluid to get the air out.
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When you do a complete brake overhaul (or close to, like you did) and still have air in the lines, it's generally a good idea to use a reverse bleeder. It basically pressurizes the system and forces air back up through the BMC.
Either that, or go through a couple quarts of brake fluid to get the air out.
Either that, or go through a couple quarts of brake fluid to get the air out.
If you can't find any fluid leaks from the MC, calipers, wheel cylinders, or lines, then there's almost surely a little air left in the system.
For bleeding, did you have a buddy press the brake pedal down after you opened the bleeder screw and then hold the pedal down until you closed the screw, repeating this pattern multiple times for each wheel?
For bleeding, did you have a buddy press the brake pedal down after you opened the bleeder screw and then hold the pedal down until you closed the screw, repeating this pattern multiple times for each wheel?
There are no leaks, I spent a good 30 min under the car tracing all brake lines to make sure. I even got bit in the face by a damn spider while down there...
When you do a complete brake overhaul (or close to, like you did) and still have air in the lines, it's generally a good idea to use a reverse bleeder. It basically pressurizes the system and forces air back up through the BMC.
Either that, or go through a couple quarts of brake fluid to get the air out.
Either that, or go through a couple quarts of brake fluid to get the air out.
I will also look into reverse bleeding as I have never done this before.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...bleeder+kit.do
Just one example. You can find kits for cheaper.
Just one example. You can find kits for cheaper.
Haha yea but unfortunately the exhaust pipe was in the way and I hit that instead. I had to slide out from under the car to slap the little basterd. He got me twice and my face was swolen up the next day...
Update:
bled another qt through the system over the weekend. I thought i saw a couple air bubbles coming out when i got to the rear drivers side, but i could be wrong. I was on my 6th beer at that point. After i was done, the brakes feel much better now.
Thanks for all your input.
bled another qt through the system over the weekend. I thought i saw a couple air bubbles coming out when i got to the rear drivers side, but i could be wrong. I was on my 6th beer at that point. After i was done, the brakes feel much better now.
Thanks for all your input.
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