ok, recently i have been gettin impatient saving for a turbo set-up that i wanted to do and with this summer steadily approaching and the weather being crazy warm out here(NY) i have decided to switch plans and go with a nitrous set-up hopefully by honda day this year(atco) .

Currently i have a JDM b18c1 swapped in my EK tuned on hondata S300. Since i have decided to go NA/nitrous i have decided to swap out my b18c1 block for a b20 block mated to my b18c1 head.

I plan on doing the CNCwerx CSS to the block because its cheap, its added piece of mind, and i achieve 2.0L. I plan on running a forged piston/rod combo on this block. Probably something around 11.5-12.0 cp.

i have a few basic question regrading swapping out the b20 block. First off i wanted to confirm that i can run all the current sensors on my b18c1 and swap them over to my b20 with no problem. Also since it is a JDM b18c1 should i also go with a JDM b20? Im under the impression that the JDM blocks dont have a crank flux sensor(i think) compared to USDM so would it be easier to stick with JDM?

Regrading the cranks im under the impression that there is no difference between a b18b crank and a b20 crank? so deciding which to run doesnt really matter, correct?


I have more questions but for now ill cut it off with some basic stuff i was unsure and wanted to get out of the way.

Thanks for any help given.

 

I have been looking at rod pistons combos. im think of going with BC rods with CP pistons. Not sure on part # for pistons yet but was considering these for the rods

BC6057 vs BC6019 to my understanding same rod except the 6057 is a "lightweight" version. Any reason not to go with the lighter weight rods? They are the same price and figured lighter is better so why not. Any opinions?

 

If you use lighter rods, make sure to get everything balanced.

heres a thread you should look at.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

 

The crank fluctuation sensor CKF, mounted to the oil pump, isn't there on the JDM. No worries, just stick with the bypass - or whatever you're using now if you're already JDM.

I think the B18C block has a knock sensor, and don't know that the B20 does... you can find alternative means to mount one - it's been done.

The rest of the sensors mount to the head or other bolt-ons (e.g. Dist, etc).

Mark

 

The CFK sensor is fine if it's there (USDM). It doesn't have to be hooked up or it can be removed. Only held on by one 10mm bolt.

 

Thank you for your input, and yes i have read through that thread a while ago, i will go through it again to pick up on anything i have missed.

Thank you guys for the input as well, regrading the CFK i have found a USDM block that i am interested in. Which would you recommend if i do decide to go USDM. Should i just leave the sensor unplugged? or remove and use some type of block off if possible?

Also there is a short block for sale that i am currently interested in, it is a USDM 1999 B20z block. So to my understanding since its a 99 its the higher compression(9.6:1) which DOES come with a factory knock sensor. Can any1 confirm this please? Also is the plug style the same as my current knock sensor (b18c1)?

Also ive never bought a block before, and im kind of unsure of what to look for as far as potential problems. Crank will be reused but new everything else so its mostly the condition of the block itself and the crank that im going for. Any pointers?

Also the short block is complete so i get to tear it down which i never done before. So at least i get to do it on parts that i will not being using lol and i get to learn something. Will prob have some1 assemble it though for my piece of mind lol.

 

No worries - it bolts on externally so you can safely ignore it, or if you have a USDM ECU go ahead and connect it. Worst case, you have a USDM ECU and no sensor (= CEL). In that case, implement the bypass or connect the CKF. Small thing, adds little to no value (like your appendix)..

How many miles? You can probably estimate wear. Use your eyes, and look closely for any sign of physical trauma, cracks, or stripped threads (!)

Be prepared to fix internal issues as you find them (e.g. set aside money assuming you'll have to do normal rebuild shop work: honing, pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, sealers.. find a good shop with experience and reputation for doing excellent work on imports in general and Honda/Acura in particular. Don't know who that is these days but RS Machines used to be one such shop. The sleeved my block and those bores were within a tenth of a thousandth all the way down - nicely done.[\QUOTE]

Good idea.. if you mean to use a professional. If it's a friend, be sure you're using the right tools: quality torque wrench, torque to specs following factory pattern/instructions, and use a bolt-stretch gauge on the rod bolts (for consistency and accuracy). Assuming you'll either have new rods with ARP bolts, or at least replace the stock rod bolts with ARP ones...

Good luck! Have fun.

Mark

 

in case you guys were wondering i bought a USDM 97 long block b20 that i have started to tear down and get ready for machine work. thanks for all your help guys. if i have any questions with my partlist i will make a new thread. thanks again.