I have DC headers
High Flow Cat
Greddy EVO 2 Catback
2.5"

I am looking into getting
Megan Headers 2.25"
Custom pipe 2.25"
Apexi WS2 Catback

Considering my car is just bolt on for the time being and the only other things that will be added are a Short Ram, Cams, Intake Manifold, throttle body before summer and a tune. Do you think the 2.25" application will be a more quiet enjoyable ride and still perform well? I travel ALOT and the drone I get now (because I am always speeding on the highway) is just annoying.

Reason those are all that will be done this summer is because I plan to buy an ITR trans / Clutch / Flywheel as well. And then sometime in 2014 really start getting into her. But saving the money for the trans etc kind of limits my spending ATM.

Also are pulleys worth it for our cars? I already pulled the AC as I have 0 use for it, Even on the hottest days in all the cars I have owned I never run AC at all. I complain and sweat lol.... Thanks for the responses ahead of time!

 

Honestly I think your modifications are a dramatic waste of money if power is a goal you're seeking. Reducing noise is an admirable goal especially when you aren't happy with the noise in the cabin.

Reducing the exhaust diameter will help with noise, but the muffler is going to be the biggest change in Db. You could honestly chop off the EVO muffler and stick on a chambered Dynomax super turbo or something similar and reduce the noise for a LOT cheaper than an Apexi WS2 (which is an amazing exhaust) and you would keep what little power you benefit from in the larger diameter exhaust.

The DC header is probably better than the Megan, though neither are great. You could forgo the new header and get a set of ITR cams and you would actually see real gains in performance. The real limitation with the engine you've got is your displacement.

And pulleys are not really a worthwhile mod unless you're deleting accessory components. However the power gains are extremely minimal.

The ITR trans won't be a gearing upgrade for you at all. It will be cheaper to buy an MFactory LSD and have that put in instead and you'll essentially have an ITR transmission. Again, saving you money by using your head.

 

I was reading this huge write up on transmissions and the ITR (forgot what numbers it had to have but was really rare and had longer gear ratios) But I will take your advice on it. Ya I know the power gains are slim to none with bolt ons. Like mentioned above though I will have ITR cams etc before summer hits, Just getting the bolt on stuff "Like everyone does" lol before I get the pieces of the puzzle put together. I was hoping a 2.25 all the way through with a WS2 (after reading how much people love the noise reduction) would be a good setup for what I am looking for in the car.

I have read everyone go back and fourth about dont do 2.25 to 2.5 or 2.5 to 2.25 because you will lose what little power gains you have by doing so which is why I am so stuck on trying to keep the size the same all the way through and like mentioned above, I can imagine going 2.25 with a high flow cat and a WS2 would be that nice quiet sound I am looking for.

I'm lost, lol. I am not used to NA @ all really and especially not used to honda. Was all subaru before this so it is just a crazy learning curve. For everyone 1 thing one person says on the FAQ's or any forum for that matter someone else will fire back with "your wrong" so it has been just going off of peoples words @ this point lol... I thank you again for taking the time to respond, I guess I will just have to see what pans out. I was hoping I could sell my setup (was told that the EVO 2 and DC headers are quality and alot of people are after them, And then put together a full 2.25" exhaust using a WS2, I really cant imagine there would be a HUGE difference in the DC header VS. The Megan. Let's face it I am just another Bolt on SI. There isn't a whole lot there until I get the cams in like you mentioned and like I was talking about above.

You are however 1 of multiple people to tell me that pulleys were next to pointless. Even though my AC is already removed (not sure if that is what you were talking about when removing components) None the less thank you much for the response.

 

The b16 and the ITR have the exact same gears.

You've read some exhaust myths, your engine would see power gains with a 2.5" and a 3" over a 2.25" exhaust, all the way across the powerband. The only thing you're giving up with those exhaust is noise. 3" will be significantly louder, but you'll see more power at all parts of the RPM range.

If you're going the N/A route, the b16 is a particularly poor starting point considering it's the smallest displacement DOHC engine Honda offers.

The Dynos speak for themselves. What I'm telling you is conventional wisdom from reading/watching over the years, and lately by my own experience with my H2B setup.

Before you realize it, the money you're spending trying to squeeze power out of a b16 could have been spent on a setup like mine and you'll have a LOT more power and potential. The money you'd spend to get the power I've got would cost a LOT more than the stock engine setup I've got. You could turbo charge your car and get 300whp and drive the car that way reliably for years or you could get 170-190whp throwing bolt ons at it.

If you're really considering a new header, a good knockoff of an SMSP, Hytech, etc is going to be a lot better than Megan or DC.

And pulleys are indeed next to pointless.

 

I will take your advice, Like I mentioned I know only what I read in forums. I have literally 0 Hands on or experience with these motors. Thank you again. Can I just ask one question though (this going into the whole back pressure thing people always talk about) Isn't 3" excessive for a motor that has essentially nothing done to it? Guess that is where I am lost most. I know on a subaru for example running 3" on a NA 2.5 RS would in face decrease power. I am trying to wrap my head around how 3" will gain on a honda motor. Sorry if I am frustrating to talk to by the way I am just trying to soak up as much as I can.

 

you wouldn't lose power, as the heads are extremely efficient in stock form. in my opinion on a stock motor it's not worth the extra noise over a 2.5" system.

 

Nope, there are dynos all over this forum that show that you lose nothing on pretty much every engine with a 3" exhaust. It's a myth.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...%27%27+exhaust
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...%27%27+exhaust
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...%27%27+exhaust
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...%27%27+exhaust
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...%27%27+exhaust

 

WOW! Incredible Info. Cant thank you enough!

 

Of course, this forum is a pretty well organized library of information Almost every topic you can think of has been covered.

 

Man I have been glued all day seeing what I can do to make good All motor power, The reason I "thought" all motor would be cheaper is because I get the parts @ cost and a turbo kit really doesn't have much mark up. But in all reality I can see why everyone just says .... "BOOST" lol... I am still in shock that a 3" Exhaust can hold that kind of TQ and HP curve all the way through on a dyno NA...

 

I mean I obviously can't find ITR stuff @ cost. That will take some shopping around on my behalf. Again with the exhaust alone though... I'm as equally amazed as I am sad... Lol... I still will end up going the more quiet route for a little loss in the already low end of gains just for a more enjoyable ride. Drone really gets to me when I am doing 75 on the highway for 6 hours back and fourth from Chicago and Michigan....

 

I've got a 2.5" exhaust on my H2B setup with a dynomax super turbo muffler and it's very quiet.

 

I saw you had like 200 something hp. That is pretty awesome, That car has to fly, Wanted to say it looks great by the way!!!! I normally do not care for HB's but yours is beautiful.

 

A 96-97 itr or a ctr tranny has the same ratios as a 99-00 si. The 98+ jdm itr has longer 4-5?? gears and a shorter final drive.

 

Here are your B tranny's: http://bensebuilt.livejournal.com/2006/01/08/

All of your Vtec gear box's are so damn close in comparison(minus the 4.7FD and LSD), I don't understand why one would choose one over the other. It's splitting hairs to say the least.

 

I pulled a way different chart. Just searched for the link for the last 45 minutes and can't find it. But one of the ITR trans was said to have a way longer 5th gear than the rest for highway cruising. None the less I will just go LSD since everything seems to be so minimal. I was just looking for something that would keep me in low R's on the highway @ 75-80mph for gas and noise reasons. Same reason I was thinking about bumpin down to the 2.25" exhaust all the way through to a WS2. If I didn't have to go back and fourth so much it wouldn't bother me @ all but 6-7 hours on the road the drone makes me want to slap my head into the dash... then again what did I expect. I put a damn exhaust on my car, Can bitch about it all I want but that was my own doing. If I didn't want drone I should have left it stock. Especially for the power to be had out of the investment.

 

Well I got it all taken care of. I am running 60mm all the way through. Only because my buddy gets everything @ cost new and I could not find certain things I wanted from his distributor. I think I will be happy with the outcome in the end though. I believe the WS2 is 60mm as well. I am just going to have to sub that out for a skunk2 @ half the price. After reading and speaking to everyone it just seems to suit the build I am headed toward better and the ride quality I want. Thank you all much again for the info it has been very helpful. The search bar does wonders as well. Thank you again!