1995 DX alternator high voltage
I have looked around on the forum but can't seem to find anything about my specific problem:
I drove the car in rain for the first time today and the battery light came on. It flickered a couple times but only when I was at low RPM. I took it to the auto store and they said the alternator was putting out 18V at no load and 17.9V under full load. I'm assuming some of the diodes are shot but am wondering if it could be a voltage regulator or equivalent. There is nothing even close to this condition in my Haynes manual troubleshooting section.
I drove the car in rain for the first time today and the battery light came on. It flickered a couple times but only when I was at low RPM. I took it to the auto store and they said the alternator was putting out 18V at no load and 17.9V under full load. I'm assuming some of the diodes are shot but am wondering if it could be a voltage regulator or equivalent. There is nothing even close to this condition in my Haynes manual troubleshooting section.
Going to pull the alternator tonight and see what it looks like - I have all sorts of electrical testing equipment and components. I'm just wondering if I will be able to access any of the rectifiers or even be able to replace any components individually..
nice.. Sprayed all 4 of those first bolts with kroil, let it sit for a minute or so and 3 came out perfectly. The 4th snapped flush with the thread surface. 
Maybe I'll just buy a new alternator. Projects like these, for this car anyway, tend to take 10x more time than I plan them to.
BTW, thanks for posting the diagram. I may still just replace the rectifier depending on how I feel tomorrow.

Maybe I'll just buy a new alternator. Projects like these, for this car anyway, tend to take 10x more time than I plan them to.
BTW, thanks for posting the diagram. I may still just replace the rectifier depending on how I feel tomorrow.
nice.. Sprayed all 4 of those first bolts with kroil, let it sit for a minute or so and 3 came out perfectly. The 4th snapped flush with the thread surface. 
Maybe I'll just buy a new alternator. Projects like these, for this car anyway, tend to take 10x more time than I plan them to.
BTW, thanks for posting the diagram. I may still just replace the rectifier depending on how I feel tomorrow.

Maybe I'll just buy a new alternator. Projects like these, for this car anyway, tend to take 10x more time than I plan them to.
BTW, thanks for posting the diagram. I may still just replace the rectifier depending on how I feel tomorrow.
Jeez. This car is a money pit. I feel like this thing will need a new VIN number by the time I'm done replacing all the parts that keep breaking.
I noticed on my commute back from work with the battery light on that my high beam indicator stayed on and wouldn't turn off. I would flick the high/low beam switch but the high beam indicator remained ON.
Just went for a test drive with the new alternator and my headlights do not work at all: high or low beam. Running lights are good but the headlights are nonexistent. Haven't had time to look in the manual but did the excess voltage burn up the elements or is the switch bad? I plan to check the fuse first thing tomorrow..
I noticed on my commute back from work with the battery light on that my high beam indicator stayed on and wouldn't turn off. I would flick the high/low beam switch but the high beam indicator remained ON.
Just went for a test drive with the new alternator and my headlights do not work at all: high or low beam. Running lights are good but the headlights are nonexistent. Haven't had time to look in the manual but did the excess voltage burn up the elements or is the switch bad? I plan to check the fuse first thing tomorrow..
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Did some discovery this morning - So All the fuses checked out - I just did a continuity beep check on every single one of them. Not the best method as I didn't actually read the resistance for each one but it gave me the peace of mind to go onto the next step.
Unplugged this from the left headlight:

::Shudder::
I ohmed out the headlight bulbs and found that of the 4 resistance readings I should have been able to record (left low beam, left high beam, right high beam, right low beam) there was only one reading that was not an open circuit. So one bulb is completely shot and one is half shot.
Next I left the plugs unplugged and checked for voltage. This checked out OK but I find it weird that high beam gave me a single 12v at the plug end while low beam gave two 12v reads at the plug end. But my high/low beam indicator at the dash is alternating on and off between the settings at least.
Just ordered: new bulbs, new connectors. That should remedy the headlight issue at least.
Unplugged this from the left headlight:

::Shudder::
I ohmed out the headlight bulbs and found that of the 4 resistance readings I should have been able to record (left low beam, left high beam, right high beam, right low beam) there was only one reading that was not an open circuit. So one bulb is completely shot and one is half shot.

Next I left the plugs unplugged and checked for voltage. This checked out OK but I find it weird that high beam gave me a single 12v at the plug end while low beam gave two 12v reads at the plug end. But my high/low beam indicator at the dash is alternating on and off between the settings at least.
Just ordered: new bulbs, new connectors. That should remedy the headlight issue at least.
Well, I pulled the headlight bulbs and both confirmed my tests I performed earlier in the day. I soldered the new connector on, replaced the headlight bulbs, and all is back to normal. Brights and dims work perfectly. Thanks for the input.
I didn't put any on there but I will when I get home.
I was about to create a new thread but you guys may be able to lead me in the right direction..
I put a new steering rack (new but not OEM) in the car and it makes a groaning noise when I turn the wheel initially, pretty badly. Even worse, I can "feel" the gears on the rack/pinion or either something is sticking. Running down the interstate the wheel does not feel fluid like it should. It kind-of jerks instead of turning smoothly. I will attach video to aid later on. I did try loosening and retightening the steering knuckles and that seemed to help. So it may have had side force on the rack spline for a couple miles.
Video:
http://s1275.beta.photobucket.com/us...f1388.mp4.html
I was about to create a new thread but you guys may be able to lead me in the right direction..
I put a new steering rack (new but not OEM) in the car and it makes a groaning noise when I turn the wheel initially, pretty badly. Even worse, I can "feel" the gears on the rack/pinion or either something is sticking. Running down the interstate the wheel does not feel fluid like it should. It kind-of jerks instead of turning smoothly. I will attach video to aid later on. I did try loosening and retightening the steering knuckles and that seemed to help. So it may have had side force on the rack spline for a couple miles.
Video:
http://s1275.beta.photobucket.com/us...f1388.mp4.html
Last edited by Prypiat; Jan 14, 2013 at 08:24 AM.
I never would have thought it.. Jacked the car up this evening to try and find out what was going on with the steering noise. I figured first things first: make sure all the external joints are lubricated.
I sprayed the new tie rod ends (MOOG) and ball joints with dupont silicone with teflon (supposedly lubricates/protects rubber and plastic) and it completely remedied the problem. The front end feels like a brand new car. No noise whatsoever. Apparently compressing the rubber tie rod ends against a clean metal surface wasn't such a good idea.. Or I overtorqued it, one. I usually use my torque wrench but I didn't with the front end components with cotter pins - Tightened the hell out of them and put the cotter pin in. This makes me so happy. Ready for tires and a proper tire alignment now.
I sprayed the new tie rod ends (MOOG) and ball joints with dupont silicone with teflon (supposedly lubricates/protects rubber and plastic) and it completely remedied the problem. The front end feels like a brand new car. No noise whatsoever. Apparently compressing the rubber tie rod ends against a clean metal surface wasn't such a good idea.. Or I overtorqued it, one. I usually use my torque wrench but I didn't with the front end components with cotter pins - Tightened the hell out of them and put the cotter pin in. This makes me so happy. Ready for tires and a proper tire alignment now.
Well here we go again - I don't have time at work to do thorough research and was hoping you guys could lead me in the right direction..
Car has been running great. Got up this morning to start the car and it wouldn't crank. When I turn the key on, the radio starts and I get the interior lights on the dash. When I switch the ignition to engage the starter I hear a click and the interior lights go out but the radio keeps playing like nothing happened.
I rocked the ignition switch back and forth hearing only the click and tapped on the starter with the butt of a screwdriver and still nothing. The engine did not turn over whatsoever. And it appeared that there was no voltage dip when the car should have been cranking.
I appreciate all the input thus far. This car is so flipping persistent to be broken.
Car has been running great. Got up this morning to start the car and it wouldn't crank. When I turn the key on, the radio starts and I get the interior lights on the dash. When I switch the ignition to engage the starter I hear a click and the interior lights go out but the radio keeps playing like nothing happened.
I rocked the ignition switch back and forth hearing only the click and tapped on the starter with the butt of a screwdriver and still nothing. The engine did not turn over whatsoever. And it appeared that there was no voltage dip when the car should have been cranking.
I appreciate all the input thus far. This car is so flipping persistent to be broken.
I would check your grounds and the connection to your starter and just make sure they are clean and tight.
Is your car a manual? If so I had a similar problem on my hatch a few yrs ago and thought the starter was bad because it just wouldn't crank and it wasn't a ground problem. Come to find the safety switch when you push the clutch down had broke. As soon as I pushed that switch in the car started right up.
Is your car a manual? If so I had a similar problem on my hatch a few yrs ago and thought the starter was bad because it just wouldn't crank and it wasn't a ground problem. Come to find the safety switch when you push the clutch down had broke. As soon as I pushed that switch in the car started right up.
Personally I like NEW ALTERNATOR, 12 VOLTS
The car is a manual. I am going to do some quick troubleshooting tonight to see if the starter is getting voltage. If it is then that makes the fix real simple. Otherwise I can think of half a dozen things that could be holding out the starter..
Did some discovery. So the clicking I'm hearing is coming from under the hood. It is one of the three relays which would either be "Rear Window Defogger", "Heater Motor Relay", or "Cooling Fan Relay". I swapped the one that is engaging with the one that was next to it with no change.

I checked voltage to the starter (the bolt not circled) and have voltage. When the car is turned to the crank position, I read Zero volts on the red circled bolt. If I have time tonight I'm going to look through the wiring diagrams and see where I should start. Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

I checked voltage to the starter (the bolt not circled) and have voltage. When the car is turned to the crank position, I read Zero volts on the red circled bolt. If I have time tonight I'm going to look through the wiring diagrams and see where I should start. Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
A lot of effort was involved.. But pictures seem to keep people interested so I do what I can.
Probably not the best fix but I just grinded the head of a bolt down smooth and put a nylock nut on the back.

Car runs great again. Finally got to run get some fuel and check the mileage. 42.56 on my third tank.
Probably not the best fix but I just grinded the head of a bolt down smooth and put a nylock nut on the back.

Car runs great again. Finally got to run get some fuel and check the mileage. 42.56 on my third tank.
Yeah once I spend a couple hours trying to figure out why my Civic wouldn't start, and it turned out to be the same thing - the friggin clutch switch wasn't being actuated.
Maybe stick some foam tape on the bolt to save the switch plastic some grief? It's like 1/8" thick, maybe less. But, that's just me, up to you.
Nice pics man!
Maybe stick some foam tape on the bolt to save the switch plastic some grief? It's like 1/8" thick, maybe less. But, that's just me, up to you.
Nice pics man!



