When I start up the car, engine stalls after half a second. If I put the gas pedal all the way down, then car (sometimes) will start up but will not pass 3000 RPMS

Don't know what to do. Plus, I get the code error P0336 for crank shaft position sensor. I fixed it with my friend (mechanic) but problem still persists.

 

If you replaced the position sensor and you still get the same code you didn't fix the trouble. At ECM connector C (wire side of female teminals) check resistance between pins 20 and 21. You should have between 1,850 and 2,450 ohms. If yes then check for continuity from connector terminal 20 to body ground. If yes then there is a short in sensor wiring. If no then substitute a known good ecm/pcm. if trouble clears original ecm/pcm is bad. If you don't have continuity between 20 and 21 you have an open sensor wire.

 

I have a different code now. It's code P1399. Car now doesn't start even if I put the gas pedal all the way down. It just sputters then goes on, then stalls after half a second.

 

When was the last time you replaced the spark plugs ?

 

8 months ago. Should I replace again? I found out code P1399 could either be a misfire or manufacture control ignition system. What could that also mean?

 

I figured out the problem. It was the egr valve and PVC. How does that get damaged though? When I took off the egr connector and started the car, it went in without me hitting the pedal. But still can't pass 3000 rpms. Also, when I plugged it back in, car stalled again but when I took it off again, it still stalled.

 

If it still isn't passing 3000 rpms you still haven't found the problem. Is it safe to assume you did cap and rotor at the same time ? Does the car only start with the egr connector disconnected ?

 

It only starts when I remove then put back on. But yeah still doesn't pass 3000rpms. And I want to make sure I'm understanding correctly, because my car knowledge is limited. Also, what do you mean by cap and rotor, the one from the distributor?

 

Yes, I meant the ones in the distributor. I would get a new egr valve gasket and some carb cleaner and remove the egr valve and clean it out real good and put it back on. Before you do that, though, remove the egr valve connector completely and start the car. See how it runs.

 

Oh ok. When I remove the connector completely, at first it stalled, but when I reconnected it then disconnected it again, the car stayed on. Rpms won't go pass 3000 though.

 

Okay cleaning it worked. But now it's back to the old code P3066 for crankshaft. Damn. It's hard to time the belt. Lol. Me and my friend (mechanic) tried twice.

 

How did you originally fix it ? This is what I dug up. It says it could even be starter or battery related. I would test out the battery and charging system.

http://engine-codes.com/p0336_honda.html

 

I unplugged the connector leading to the EGR valve, then I reconnected it; car started working but rpms won't pass 3000. Also, how can I check to see if the battery has gone bad and I bought a brand new starter, think it could be damaged still? This car is fun to work on because I'm learning a lot about Hondas now but it's the rpms that will screw me over. By the way, I have to get a new inspection sticker but its no problem, I'm on a driveway.
So now, I don't want to fail inspection but in the same time, I want this car to work again. She's in need of aid.

 

I'm asking how you fixed the crankshaft sensor issue ? Is it safe to assume that replaced the crankshaft sensor ? You can take the battery down to almost any parts store, they will check it for free. You should not at all attempt to drive that car while it's in limp mode.

 

I changed the timing belt and retimed it to the teeth, and also, for some reason after removing egr valve and cleaning it, I got a brand new code for the MAP sensor. So I'm replacing that tomorrow. Does that fix the 3000 rpm problem? And yeah I'm taking your advice and bringing the battery to autozone.

 

It's not often that map sensors go bad. You should first test the connector....remove the connector put the ignition on without starting the car and test for battery..you should get 4.5-5 volts on one pin, ground on another, and the other should be signal...i think it's .5 volts or so with no vacuum(or it could be 3.5 it's going to be one extreme or the other). If you can get a vacuum pump...i use a mittyvac i got from harbor freight..also oreilly sells em, you can test the map sensor itself, but putting a t-pin of some sort on the signal wire with the connector connected(just slide a pin of some sort gently past the signal wire until it bottoms out at the map sensor) and gently apply vacuum in 5in increments. Voltage on the signal wire should steadily go up or down. I can't remember at the moment.

 

I checked the connectors. Apparently the crankshaft connector doest work. Plus, I was getting the code P0108 for MAP/sensor and after I changed it, now it's going back to the P0366 code, which is the crankshaft. So I don't know what to do anymore and I can't take it to the machanics. Can't afford, plus my friend is one and he told me I ought to do it myself because mechanics are ripoffs. Plus, I don't own a mittyvac and my shops are charging a lot for them. I'm about to give up because I changed more than 15 things and spent over $1500.

 

Okay so the car was starting normally but could not pass 3000rpms and had code P0108 which is Manifold/MAP. I replaced it. After replacing the sensor now the car turns on for half a second and stalls. I can no longer have the car stay. What's going on? Should a brand new sensor make it work the same even if it wasn't the issue in the first place?

Also, when I turn on the ignition and start it, once it stalls i have to turn off the ignition and it'll restart the same stalling process but if it stalls and I just leave the ignition on, it'll sputter without turning on.

 

I don't understand what you mean by the crankshaft connector doesn't work. The test I gave you above was for the map sensor...first you can test the ecu side by testing the connector that plugs into the map sensor. If that checks out then you test the map sensor. You could have an open somewhere on the ecu side of the connector. There are three pins. You should test all three...one will be reference voltage...4.5 - 5.0 volts...one will be ground...and the other will have signal...Just reread my above post. Then just get a mitty vac from harbor freight if you got one near you do the test on the map sensor and within 30 days or 90 days can't remember at the moment you can take it back and get your money back lol

Odds are your crank sensor is bad and needs to be replaced.

 

It could be three main problems.
Air
Fuel
Spark.
Going to take your advice and rent a mittyvac, but not from those places you said because there are non where I'm located. Good thing I bought the book specifically for my car. Thank you. I'll keep you posted on what happens next.

 

Car cranks now, doesn't start. So I don't know what to do. Doesn't checking vacuum require car to be idle? I got the mityvac MV8000. Plus I checked my battery, apparently my batter has a dead cell.

 

Aww crap I find out the problem. The reason I kept having the crankshaft position sensor code (p0336) is because its the electeia connector to the ckp. How can I replace that f the whole female connector is attached to the harness on top of the fuel injectors?

 

The mittyvac is a vacuum pump. You will use that to manufacture vacuum. That's the idea behind getting one. So you can test it without having the car started. Just reread my post again and you should get it.

 

What's wrong with the connector ? You are going to need to source another connector, but it would be best to get the whole assembly that goes to the top of the fuel injectors.

You can try the honda-tech marketplace. Put an ad over there and see what comes up.

 

Traveled all the wires from the harness. It was the ignition switch.