1992 Accord ..... Bogging and no power!! Please help!!
Hello everyone.... I am new to this forum. I have a 92 Accord I bought recently and need help!!
So I bought a 92 Accord last week from a guy for $700. Car is in mint condition very clean!! Sat in his driveway for a year and has not ran since it had been parked. When I bought the car it ran perfect besides it being stuck in the D4 gear.... So I knew right off the bat it was going to need a A/t computer. Well the next day I drove it and every once in a while it would bog down and when it did I would give it full throttle and it cleared right up. When I got the car it had 1/4 tank of fuel. Well when I drove the car till the fuel light came on and right before I went to get gas it started bogging down really bad.... To the point where it just died right out.... Acted exactly like it did when you run out of gas. Well I was able to start it back up after holding the throttle all the way down and it eventually cleared up and was able to drive it to the store to get gas. Well I noticed that the car had a very strong smell of gas fumes which was telling me that it was burning wayyyyyyyyy too rich. So was barely able to make it home because it was bogging all the way home. But again if I held the throttle down it would eventually clear up.... but go right back to bogging down. So I jumped the wires to get codes because the cel was on. Well it gave 4 long flashes and one quick one. So I took it was 5 flashes which when I looked it up was a MAP sensor code. So I replaced the MAP sensor still no change in how it ran. So then I figured it was the FPR so I changed that... Still no change in how it ran. So I took the fuel rail off and took out the injectors cleaned all the injectors and put in new plugs.... And it fired up but was missing on #4 cylinder. Checked for spark and it had spark... So I disconnected the injector plug and no change at all in the motor. So the injector on #4 was not firing. So I let the car sit for 30 minutes went back out to start it and it fired right up on all 4 cylinders and ran like a brand new car!! So I figured great its fixed. Well drove it down the road and not even 2 minutes it went to bogging all over again. I am so frustrated and really want this car fixed. Can anyone tell me if it could be the ECU is bad or A sticking injector? Any clues would be great......... Thanks!!
So I bought a 92 Accord last week from a guy for $700. Car is in mint condition very clean!! Sat in his driveway for a year and has not ran since it had been parked. When I bought the car it ran perfect besides it being stuck in the D4 gear.... So I knew right off the bat it was going to need a A/t computer. Well the next day I drove it and every once in a while it would bog down and when it did I would give it full throttle and it cleared right up. When I got the car it had 1/4 tank of fuel. Well when I drove the car till the fuel light came on and right before I went to get gas it started bogging down really bad.... To the point where it just died right out.... Acted exactly like it did when you run out of gas. Well I was able to start it back up after holding the throttle all the way down and it eventually cleared up and was able to drive it to the store to get gas. Well I noticed that the car had a very strong smell of gas fumes which was telling me that it was burning wayyyyyyyyy too rich. So was barely able to make it home because it was bogging all the way home. But again if I held the throttle down it would eventually clear up.... but go right back to bogging down. So I jumped the wires to get codes because the cel was on. Well it gave 4 long flashes and one quick one. So I took it was 5 flashes which when I looked it up was a MAP sensor code. So I replaced the MAP sensor still no change in how it ran. So then I figured it was the FPR so I changed that... Still no change in how it ran. So I took the fuel rail off and took out the injectors cleaned all the injectors and put in new plugs.... And it fired up but was missing on #4 cylinder. Checked for spark and it had spark... So I disconnected the injector plug and no change at all in the motor. So the injector on #4 was not firing. So I let the car sit for 30 minutes went back out to start it and it fired right up on all 4 cylinders and ran like a brand new car!! So I figured great its fixed. Well drove it down the road and not even 2 minutes it went to bogging all over again. I am so frustrated and really want this car fixed. Can anyone tell me if it could be the ECU is bad or A sticking injector? Any clues would be great......... Thanks!!
make sure you have the correct codes. Long flash=10,short flash=1. So 4 long and 1 short would be 41. I had a somewhat similar symptoms and it turned out to be the O2 sensor even though the CEL did not come on. (Thanks to this forum otherwise I would still be trying to figure it out.)
14 is for the Electronic Air Control Valve,
First pull the connector off of the EACV (2 pin connector), the EACV is mounted to intake manifold near throttle housing.
Check the resistance between the two pins on the valve, it should be between 8-15 ohms, if it is not replace the valve.
Next check continuity to ground between both pins on the valve, if you have any on either of them replace the valve.
if you passed those test, then turn the ignition switch on and test for battery voltage between the yel/blk (+) terminal and the blk/blu (-) terminal on the connector. You should have battery voltage.
If you make it this far and haven't found it let me know and we'll keep going on that one.
As far as the 16 code is concerned thats for the fuel injectors, I'd like for you to clear the codes and see if that one returns. It may just be related to the injector issue you had earlier.
First pull the connector off of the EACV (2 pin connector), the EACV is mounted to intake manifold near throttle housing.
Check the resistance between the two pins on the valve, it should be between 8-15 ohms, if it is not replace the valve.
Next check continuity to ground between both pins on the valve, if you have any on either of them replace the valve.
if you passed those test, then turn the ignition switch on and test for battery voltage between the yel/blk (+) terminal and the blk/blu (-) terminal on the connector. You should have battery voltage.
If you make it this far and haven't found it let me know and we'll keep going on that one.
As far as the 16 code is concerned thats for the fuel injectors, I'd like for you to clear the codes and see if that one returns. It may just be related to the injector issue you had earlier.
Ok so I checked all the plugs and connections..... Then reset the computer and the codes are gone. So I changed my fuel filter and ran some sea foam thru and it start up and was firing on all 4 cylinders but then eventually shut uoff and now it wont start.
Can a fuel pump be bad even though you can hear it prime when you turn the key? Im starting to think maybe I have a weak fuel pump.... When I took off the fuel filter and tapped it on the ground and turned it upside down it was HORRIBLE!! The gas was completely Brown!! Im wondering if the sock or filter on the bottom of the fuel pump is stopped up?
Can a fuel pump be bad even though you can hear it prime when you turn the key? Im starting to think maybe I have a weak fuel pump.... When I took off the fuel filter and tapped it on the ground and turned it upside down it was HORRIBLE!! The gas was completely Brown!! Im wondering if the sock or filter on the bottom of the fuel pump is stopped up?
Theres a very good possibility that there is rust in the tank as well. Theres no telling how long this car has sat over the course of it's lifetime. I'm with zottic, pull the fuel tank and drain it. Look inside of the tank while you've got it down and if the inside is coated in rust find a shop that can line the tank for you, or just buy a new tank.
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