what oil to use and how many quarts
i know this is a funny quesition to ask but idk what weight of oil to use ive got a stock 1995 honda prelude s 2.2 single cam motor ive always used 10-30 in my mustangs and camaros of past
10w30 works
I'm guessing yours has F22 motor, I had that in my old accord and remember it recommending 5w30 in a sticker on the underside of the hood.
you'll need 1 gallon
I'm guessing yours has F22 motor, I had that in my old accord and remember it recommending 5w30 in a sticker on the underside of the hood.
you'll need 1 gallon
BTW: We are in Costa Rica!
Last edited by Danny Fallas; Jan 9, 2013 at 07:38 AM. Reason: BTW
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I like this stuff, just remember to get the Synthetic Titanium Edge. I prefer this stuff to Mobile 1 HP, but Valvoline VR1 is also a respectable choice. Can't say much about Royal Purple, a lot of their oils are syn-blends. All my royal purple buds are now going with Castrol.
I like this stuff, just remember to get the Synthetic Titanium Edge. I prefer this stuff to Mobile 1 HP, but Valvoline VR1 is also a respectable choice. Can't say much about Royal Purple, a lot of their oils are syn-blends. All my royal purple buds are now going with Castrol. 

Should read there website and about there oil. Castrol is
Used by many pro drag,rally,drifters,NASCAR, and many more
Use castrol on your next oil change people and you will
" Feel the difference " smoother, better acceleration
Just try the stuff once and you will be hooked.
Guys, the big reason why people run either Royal Purple or Brad Penn oil in Honda engines is for the flat rocker faces of the H22 and H23, due to the added zinc content of the HPS Royal Purple.
As environmental regulations get stricter, many oils have dropped zinc content drastically, but our engines need it to keep the rocker faces and cams happy.
In the F22 engine, it may not such a concern, as I have honestly never looked at an F22 head to see if the rockers are the same.
If the engine is high mileage i.e. over 50-70 K miles, and has run non-syn oils, don't switch to a synthetic, as it will probably caus leaks and damage from seals that are used to regular oil.
On my new builds, I run non-syn for the first 3-500 miles of break in, which I do 2-3 oil changes anyways, then switch to Royal Purple (HPS only).
As environmental regulations get stricter, many oils have dropped zinc content drastically, but our engines need it to keep the rocker faces and cams happy.
In the F22 engine, it may not such a concern, as I have honestly never looked at an F22 head to see if the rockers are the same.
If the engine is high mileage i.e. over 50-70 K miles, and has run non-syn oils, don't switch to a synthetic, as it will probably caus leaks and damage from seals that are used to regular oil.
On my new builds, I run non-syn for the first 3-500 miles of break in, which I do 2-3 oil changes anyways, then switch to Royal Purple (HPS only).
yeah ive just got a single cam 2.2 16v motor with 257k miles on it ive used about all types of oils over the years i love castrol high mileage ive used valvoline alot as well never used Royal Purple i really dont wanna spend almost 60bucks on a oil change i could see if i had a vtec with mods but its just simple old single cam im run it till it goes then put a vtec in it all ive used in my higher mileage cars is valvoline hm or castrol hm never had problems thxs for all the post
Guys, the big reason why people run either Royal Purple or Brad Penn oil in Honda engines is for the flat rocker faces of the H22 and H23, due to the added zinc content of the HPS Royal Purple.
If the engine is high mileage i.e. over 50-70 K miles, and has run non-syn oils, don't switch to a synthetic, as it will probably caus leaks and damage from seals that are used to regular oil.
If the engine is high mileage i.e. over 50-70 K miles, and has run non-syn oils, don't switch to a synthetic, as it will probably caus leaks and damage from seals that are used to regular oil.
My H23 ran conventional for 180k, and I can confirm that an abrupt change to synthetic messes with gaskets because of the different seal swell rates. Even though it took time, I never regret switching to synthetic for its improved life time, performance, and economy. Not to mention the peace of mind associated with all new gaskets! One of my buddies used a Royal Purple synthetic blend oil to ease the gaskets into the new seal swell rates, and he only had to replace a leaky valve cover.
One of my buddys rock crawls using Toyota FJ40's and Jeep Cherokees and he swears my AMsOil. Now I know this stuff is premium, but I've never run into any Honda owners who regularly use it. Am I misinformed, or has no one tried this oil? Check out some specs and drain intervals...
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...tic-motor-oil/
i bought my Lude about a year ago with 98K, switched it from regular to Valvoline full synpower right away, drove it for a few hundred miles, then changed it again early to clean the regular oil gunk, and still runs strong, DID change out my rear main seal, but that was just because i changed my clutch and flywheel, so while i was down there...you know
but i didnt have a problem with the switch......YET (just knocked on wood)
but i didnt have a problem with the switch......YET (just knocked on wood)
I use Royal Purple HPS 5w30 in my '01 lude. Nothing really too spectacular in the way of changes motor ran a little bit smoother compared to other stuff I've used. But the biggest difference I noticed was on cold start ups after sitting in sub zero temps all night; compared to any other oil I've used, RP is by far the the best for this imo. It turns over pretty much instantly and runs nice and smooth.
Pricey though, gotta wait for it to go on sale then I buy a three or four of the 5gal jugs and stash em.
Pricey though, gotta wait for it to go on sale then I buy a three or four of the 5gal jugs and stash em.
I just started using Royal Purple 5w-30 in my H22a the last oil change. I have gone 7500 miles and the oil looks dark and I have a mild valve cover leak that I have been just not worrying about but I haven't had to add any oil though it's now at the min mark and I'm going to change it out and send a sample to Blackstone labs. I will update the results when I get em back.
I'm not too sure honestly of how different the ride has been...smoother or not..it does seem smoother but u know that that could be in my head, but I would like to be able to go 7500 miles without having to bother with an oil change and I will just pick up a big 12 quart set from amazon for like $90 or so if the results seem good.
I'm not too sure honestly of how different the ride has been...smoother or not..it does seem smoother but u know that that could be in my head, but I would like to be able to go 7500 miles without having to bother with an oil change and I will just pick up a big 12 quart set from amazon for like $90 or so if the results seem good.
5 qts of Castrol high mileage on my last change. K&N wrench off filter. Next time I'll use a puralator but the k&n looks cool. 2.2 vtec
High mileage since my old engine leaks less than the mobil 1 did. And it's less expensive. Same as the purolator.
Royal Purple is fine. So is Mobil 1. Amsoil too. But castrol gets the job done.
High mileage since my old engine leaks less than the mobil 1 did. And it's less expensive. Same as the purolator.
Royal Purple is fine. So is Mobil 1. Amsoil too. But castrol gets the job done.
I would definitely suggest Purol 100% pure synthetic oil. It has Shear Stability so it resists being broken down by engine forces. It is a high VI engine oil so it never gets thick in cold weather and also never gets thin in hot weather, it always stays true to its viscosity. It also increases horsepower, while protecting your internals, and improves fuel efficiency.



trust me you will love it