Hi.

My itr is a simple build:

Stock b18c5
Toda spec A cams
Greddy 18g turbo kit
2.5" downpipe and catback
Itr tranny with 4.9 final drive
Toda clutch and flywheel

The goal is to have an uber responsive and quick spooling setup that makes 300whp.

Now I have a spare set of Toda itb's that I've been thinking of building a box around and using that as an intake manifold.

I also have a victor x IM that I have never used.

This is a fun street / autox setup.

Thoughts on where to go from here?

 

Check out Tony The Tiger's set up, it should have all the information you need: https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/gt2871r-integra-engine-throttle-boost-response-test-video-1665480/

Heres a couple vids too.

 

stock itr + ebay kit 300-350whp and drive like stock out of boost.

or allow me to fit in.... the go auto tuner kit is best bro

 

Ya I remember ttt, and that's why I was leaning towards itb's.

The victorX seems like it would kill my low end and midrange in favor of top end.

 

I'm doing a 10:1 ls/VTEC turbo setup that's following the same guidelines, I'll be using a gt2860 at first unless I snag this t25 based gt30r I'm looking at.

I've seen stock ls motors make a stupid responsive 300/300 at 20psi on a stock motor, full torque from like 3500 up.

I'm going for torque, that's what makes a car fun on the streets. 300+ by 3500 is what I'm looking for, I should be able to hit 400 with the 30r

 

Stock ITR isn’t high compression (not by todays standards)
Obviously you want the smallest turbo capable of flowing 30-35lbs/min.
GT2860R (or RS) would be my first choice too.
16G would be a cheaper alternative.
I personally don’t think you need to even bother with ITBs.
If you wanted monster low end torque then you need displacement and compression.

 

I am building close to the same style setup

GSR B18C1 block
LS B18B1 Crank and rods
B16 Pr3 pistons
b17a pr3 head
Jdm B16 P30 intake manifold
Arp Rod bolts and head studs
Greddy 18G
11.2:1 compression

I discussed the setup with TheShodan a little bit.

key points:

Port he wastegate on the turbo
get a gt2860 wastegate actuator.
Run it a little richer to keep the combustion chambers cool.

Compressor inlet is very close to the block right by the stamping but this might be due to my mockup not having an exhaust manifold gasket.
I will also be doing a 2.5in downpipe weaseling it through the stock front cross memer under my 1992 integra (da9). Good luck with your Build!

 

I would suggest an Edelbrock manifold for that setup. Its design seems worlds smoother. Can be picked up for $100 new. This was my GT28R setup.

Comparison:

 

Yes I noticed the same thing when I got my Greddy manifold

1. Turbine outlet needs to be gasket matched, badly
2. Ports 2-3 are almost blocked off, can't even get my pinky in the ports due to how Greddy cast it

 

I'm gonna stick with the 18g until it dies or is the limiting factor.

The car already makes 300whp, and it's very fun as is.
The turbo spools 5psi by 2500rpm and by 3200 it's at 10psi, so it's a quick spool.
I'm not looking for monster torque, but rather responsiveness at throttle input and more midrange - that's what I think the itb's will help with...
I really want a seamless transition into boost so it feels like an na motor - just stronger.
I'm also running the 4.9 final for when it's out of boost and for the down low grunt.
Oh yeah, and I have 780cc injectors and can retune with e85...

 

Honestly you can't get much more responsive then an 18gm changing to itbs will require an assload of additional tuning... part throttle, tip in, etc and you won't see much benefit as at 300, the 18g is almost tapped out

 

Ahh memories... I remember that setup. Boy, did Tony **** off a lot of people in that car.

 

I have a fully built ls block non vtec. 9 to 1 comp pistons. what would you recommend for low end torque and fast spooling. the same setup as yours. if so what should i get.

 

If I were you, I'd go with what others have suggested in this thread: 2860R and edelbrock cast manifold. What's your whp goal?

 

somewhere from 250 to 350
Do u thinks its possible?

 

350 will take a gt2860rs at minimum and more than likely a gt2871 to do it efficiently

Now stop thread jacking and make your own.

 

Bump, My short block is going in as we speak

B18C1, Ls crank, pr4 ls rods, b16 pistons, arp rod bolts, arp head studs, fel pro head gasket
New oem oil pump, re used gsr water pump, new gates timing belt. New bearings that have been mic'ed.

 

^ and?

You might need to remove the stock clutch from your sig and post up dynos.

 

And get a real OEM headgasket ( and no , Honda OEM does not use Felpro).

The question is why use OEM pistons/rods while its apart? Am I not understanding something here?

 

When did I say that Fel-pro was oem?

Its kind of obvious that they do not, Nippon if I recall?

Im trying to get right around the limit of the stock block, probably right around 280hp for it, not some buku high power block. I think the stock rods and pistons will suffice for what I'm trying to accomplish. The Ls block that came out of my car will be sleeved with aftermarket internals when I go bigger. Also when my budget is bigger.

 

Stock clutch has since been replaced, along with the trans syncronizers and axles, Sig was made when I joined HT

 

Its a common response most use. I thought I'd see if I'd beat you to the punch



That's like calling the tyres on a Cadillac STS --"American". So, no OEM head gaskets are not "Nippon".


Interesting..Redundant, but, interesting.

 

Ok. I'll put this another way to DA-NINE while trying not to be as cryptic

@DA-NINE

1) You're one of the first people in a very long time that utilizes the term "buku" to describe large or an overestimated amount of power. It sounds rather odd, dated, and even a bit offensive. Please understand, I'm not overly sensitive about it, (or "butt hurt" as younger people say), however, you might overly offend someone that might be Viet (even if its possible that you, yourself are of that nationality), so I simple found it a bit strange...

However, this is beside the point, so forgive me.

2) I say that your actions seem redundant because of the fact that it seems as though you've pulled an engine apart for the purpose of turbocharging, but in the course of doing so, you've replaced engine's OEM pistons and rods with another set of OEM Pistons and rods of the same tensile strength. Unless you simply like pulling the engine apart multiple times yourself, it seems that this course of action is called, "cutting off your nose to spite your face", by putting these same OEM components back into the block, when simply waiting for available funds to purchase higher-strength components to put into the block would be a more logical course of action.

There's "being on a budget", and there's "doing it twice for no reason." The most logical philosophy in this context should be "do it once, do it right".. you save yourself time, effort, and retain your "budget" in a more significant manner.

Since I don't know you personally or professionally, nor understand your underlying motives, I simply say this approach is interesting. Redundant... But interesting.

 

I see and there was not any bad blood towards anyone offended by the word. The reason the original engine was pulled was because it was 300k old and developed a rod knock, caught very early, Essentially this is a hold over. because I had it on the side and it came a time where I actually neeeded it more than wanted it. My plan was to have one engine in the car and build the second one outside the car. the roles have been flipped due to Ole' reliable giving up the ghost.

So the fact that I put oem components in was more due to the fact that I needed an engine that was fresher than what was in the car(ie. no knocking)

So the ls block will be sent out and be built up accordingly.

 

Ah I understand now. That seems more logical. Thanks for clarifying. Good luck to you.