Im just wondering how many miles you guys have put on your motors since going LS Vtec Im itching to go LS vtec but have heard of alot of reliability issues but I think its more of the people building the engines cutting corners.

 

The engine is only as good as the person building it. If you take your time and do it right, it will be just as reliable as any stock motor.

 

I have a e85 240 whp hatch built by rlz and its been together for about 4 years and I turn it 9800rpm at the track. No issues other than normal wear n tear. Would have a good builder do it so you can rest easy!!!

 

Nice good to hear anyone else?

 

do it right, it'll last, do it wrong just like any other build it wont last

 

This would probably be better asked in the All Motor or Tech forums as the LS/VTEC engine conversion is not Integra-specific.

And in case you're wondering how to do it right and make it reliable (from the All Motor forum): https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

 

Absolutley...

Back in 2000 we did an R part LSV using all honda parts, and factory spec clearances/tolerances.

R pistons
R cams
Honda 4-1 R header
2.5 straight pipe to 'es turbo muff
R intake, R TB
310 rc's
Chipped ECU tuned by Darren of R&D dyno 193whp 138 torque on dyno jet.

We ran it in a stripped 94 ls sunroof teg at Pomona Ca and would clock off 13.5-13.9 all day on low profile slicks, probably half a hundred or more drag passes at the strip, and much much more on the streets.
He beat the **** out of it while daily driving it for 3 years, no problems whatsoever.

He then sold it to a local kid who had put the engine in his car, and I was told as of mid 2012 that the engine is still in that kids car driving around town to this day. It must have at least 75,000 miles with much of them being hard miles. Also you need to consider the factory specs being duplicated during the machining process, and for a young kid, the original owner caught on quick gaining remarkable driving skill real fast. So im sure that contributed towards its longevity.

Cause you can beat on these things nicely if that makes any sence

 

I'm also interested to know on others longetivity...as stated above a good builder who knows what hes doing and cutting no corners is key.. Ive had my finished LSVtec for 3 weeks now closing in on 1k miles soon with no issues yet, running strong!


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Not to threadjack, but i had a question for beecee18

When building your ls-v using factory tolerances/clearances, did you build it on the looser end, tighter, somewhere in the middle if you can remember?

I am doing my first rebuild and am curious as to which angle you went with, trying to gather as much info as possible.

 

All depends on what your goals are,
What use are you planning on doing with the engine

And the engine we put together used specs from integra type R B18C service manual, All are set right in the middle of the min-max window.

 

Well in my case this is a semi-stock rebuild with 82mm pistons for a daily, piston diameter trying to be the only thing not stock about it. It was recommended to me to go a little on the looser end of factory specs. I was thinking to myself though that the middle would be a safe place to aim for, and give me more wiggle room in terms of little error. Just wondering about other tried and true ways of building a motor that would last.

 

You will have no problem running on the looser end of the specs at all.

Its when users go well outside the specs on the loose side for applications such as nitrous, turbo, or road race/autox applications where the engine lives most of its life up in the R's where more ringap will be needed

I personally went to the max loose side of factory spec for P2W and my ringaps due to the fact I dont plan on putting more than 75K on it, and it will do half of its life in the local mountain roads and the local track days.

 

So my next question is what does all this equate to? What are the effects on longevity of a motor? What are the effects of power output? Put it as generic as you would like or call me stupid.

This is what I comprehend so far.
bigger vs. smaller p2w = more or less blowby. necessary room for piston to expand in turbo/na builds

rod/main clearance - some minimal gains/losses in power. looser needed also for boost. possibly thicker oil

ring gaps?

 

There is just to big of a picture for me to paint right now, lol

You can simply research engines, and engine building techniques, racing engines in general, this alone will set you straight

 

Had mine built in '06 and must have around 50 or 60k miles on it now. Still running strong.

 

Nice did you do it yourself or had a shop do it?If so what shop in Cali did it?

 

I had a guy build it back home when I lived in Arkansas. I tried to get my hands dirty on it every chance i got. While the engine was torn apart we replaced every seal, gasket and bearings in the engine. The head had a bad compression leak on the #1 cylinder so I took the head to a machine shop and they put a whole new valve guide in and did a 3 angle valve job. The set up is:
B18B1 block
B16A2 Head
ITR Pistons
K&N Intake
PLM RMF Header, 2.25" piping, Ansa Exhaust
GSR Tranny with Stage 2 Competition Clutch
P28 ECU still untuned

 

Very nice .You didnt replace the rod bolts?So pretty much the bottom end is stock except for the pistons right

 

Sorry about that. The rod bolts and head headstuds are ARP. The conversion kit that I used is the Golden Eagle Kit. The only original parts are the rods and crank (internal wise)

 

I see your in Cali does your car pass smog?

 

LsVtecs and B20's are federally illegal, If you get bar'd your screwed, but if your car has a clean report (not a gross polluter)
Im sure it can be done, I know I could do it.

 

Unfortunately I failed smog because I'm running really rich for some reason. Running 240cc injectors. Still registered in Ar.

 

i had 2 ls/vtecs in my lifetime. both were turbocharged.

first one had wiseco's and eagles. i had about 6000-7000 miles on it before i boost spiked and it blew a sleeve apart. i think this incident pre-dates people running boost cuts lol

second one i put about 18k miles on. i reused the head from the first lsvtec and i had bent valves i didnt know about. consequently cylinder 3 had 120 psi compression for the entire 18k miles. made 330whp like this and ran consistent 12.5's. it was still running fine when i took it out to go to 84mm setup.

build it right it will be fine.

 

I was actually wondering the same thing. I am about to complete my first full oem ls/vtec build, just waiting on new pistons to come in the mail, but here is my list of parts so far:
B18b1 block
ls crank
ls rods
pr3 pistons
b18c flywheel
gsr oil pump
gsr water pump
gsr timing belt/tensioner
arp headstuds
arp rod bolts
B16a2 head
gsr cams
ls head gasket
ls vtec stainless steel oil line (t from oil sending sensor to head)
ls vtec dowel pins
gsr trans

I figured with honda's reliability, if i kept it as oem as possible it would be a good dd. also i was wondering if i could use arp main studs and main bearings for a b16a2 on the ls block and ls crank?

 

Looks like a solid build.