I have a 1992 Integra RS and recently swapped a B20Z with crower 404's, valve springs and retainers from crower too. The cam gear are still at 0,0 and the low end torque is the same as my old b18a, i was surpised about this. The idle is almost stock, just a little lumpy idle that a "newbie" couldn't even notice. I guess when i'll start to play with the gears the idle will get tricky but hey, that's the point of modding a non-vtec.

Here's the list:
B20Z 2000 (9.6:1)
iceman cold air intake
custom 2.25" cat back exhaust
Crower 404's
Crower valve springs and retainers
non ported head
ALD cam gears
b&m fpr
act xtremme pp + street performance disc
stock b18a intake mani
stock b18a exhaust mani
stock b18a ecu
stock LS tranny


Of course it's pulling much harder than the stock b18a but i need to get atleast a good header and get rid of the cat. I didn't get my head ported cause i was on a budget, i also plan to build the bottom end someday so i'll probaly get the head ported at the same time. For now it's gonna do. And for all the people that hesitates between the 403's and the 404's, get the 404's, especially if you're worried about the idle. They're not that bad.

I'm also running nitrous at the strip but i'll make sure the b20 is well tuned n/a and then after i'll start to spray again.

any tips for the fpr? What would be the best psi? And any ideas with the cam gears? I know i should this on a dyno but i don't have acess to one right now, and it's only for testing some stuff, to keep me busy you know

 

Start at stock pressure 40-47psi w/o vac. Increase as needed, it'll feel fat and sluggish if its too rich, black plugs, black on rear bumper.
Try +4In -4Ex and check out the idle, it sounds wicked. It'll get lumpier when you get a header and larger cat too.


[Modified by Sleeper, 7:31 PM 10/20/2002]

 

yeah untill you tune them there wont be a large difference... and usualy about 45 psi is a good base for fuel pressure.. also GET a skunk2 mani.. ive seen 2 b20's now that have them and it totaly smoothes out the tq curve... its a must have as far as im concerned for a b20

from 3000 all the way to 5500 my tq curve isnt even a curve its basically a straight line where with a ls intake mani you have a nasty dip from 3500 to 4500




[Modified by JCushing, 3:16 PM 10/20/2002]

 

It's cool that you share your experience with us, but you should think twice about recommending 404s over 403s to b18 owners.

Your higher static compression has something to do with you smoother idle, but most of all, your added displacement makes it much easier to handle a larger cam.

 

damn dude, raise that compression

 

Most of the people that hesitates between 403's and 404's is cause of the idle, all i see is people that wants something reliable. It's true that with my larger displacement and the 9.6:1 vs the 9.2:1 for the b18a/b, the 404's will idle better. All i'm saying is that go with the 404's if your goal are more than just adding cams.

I will raise the compression, like i said, i was on a budget and couldn't afford anything in one shot....and i really didn't want to get a loan for modding my car.

 

ttt

 

Will the 404's pass emissions?

Or do you even have to worry about that in montreal...

And with regards to a car running too rich, I can't seem to get my car to not run rich... the back of my car is always covered in black specks.... and it's so annoying.

I should probably start a new thread for this, but can anyone offer any suggestions?

My setups is basically as follows:
b18a1
colt cams (custom ground, slightly more aggressive than 403's, not quite as aggressive as 404's)
erick's racing ecu
apexi safc
b&m fpr
aem cam gears
carsound cat
2.25 exhaust
4-2-1 dc
milled 20 thou/port polished

Any ideas? The car just seems to run really rich at wot/high rpm.. i could lean it out with my safc, but I don't know how much is "too lean".

Thanks,
Adam

 

theres no real answer other than get it dyno tuned... no way around it man

 

yeah dyno it man, get the fuel right ect..... ge you a afc or something as well


[Modified by DRAG lll INTEGRA, 3:28 PM 10/21/2002]

 

We don't have to worry about emission test in Montreal, for now.
Did you try different settings with your aem cam gears? What seems to work the best?

 

Does the power still feel like it's dying off after 6000 RPM with the cams at 0,0...? Or does it pull all the way to redline? I'm gonna get the 404s someday...still need to get the engine IN first though

 

I've played around with my gears a bit, but obviously I can't say what works the best until my car gets on a dyno.

Right now my gears are at about +2.5 (intake) and -1 (exhaust).


Does anyone know if my running rich problem could be my O2 sensor? I'm not throwing any codes....

I have an safc but I haven't really touched any settings.. kind of waiting for the dyno..

Can I lean my car out a bit without worrying about damage? If so, approx. how much?

Thanks,
Adam

 

With the gears @ 0,0 it's pulling all the way to redline and i'd say that my low end torque is the same as my b18a.

What seems to work for others is +2 -2, +3 -3, +4 -4. Of course every motors is different so maybe this is not the right set up for me but hey i'll give it a try.

Adam: All i can says is that i'm running ok @ 43 psi on my b&m fpr. Stock injectors with the 2L + the 404's.

 

What does your car idle at?

 

The idle is....almost stock. You can hear it in the tone of the exhaust but nothing major. It's going up and down between 700 and 900rpm. I'm not stalling at spot lights.

 

nice.. congrats man!
i had the 403's on my b18b last year...i wasnt too impressed with them. i wished i had gotten the 404's.

cam gear settings, i know everyone's suggest the standard +/- 2,3,4... but try doing -1 intake, -2 exhaust. well, at least when i had the 403's, it ran harder that way than when i had it +2,-2 (which was dynotuned that way)... go figure whatever works for your own engine

 

Reset your base idle speed to smooth out the idle. You are resetting ignition timing every time you move the intake cam right? Increasing overlap will really open the top end. Try +4 on the intake, set ignition timing to stock, and then mess with the exhaust cam. Ex cam adjustments won't affect ign timing.