I have read alllllll about these... and the only form I have not seen was something like this...H22a1 block
H23a1 crankshaft
h22a1 rods
H23a1 pistons
DH racing single layer HG
block shaved .20
Head milled .15
Instead of the h23 crankshaft +rods and type s pistons

I did the h series compression calculator and it seems to work?

H22 rods are longer And the 95mm crankshaft is that not a better stroke? Or would the rod stroke ratio be messed up?Just trying to figure out if this combination is the same or better?
Any input ill take

 

Without even decking the block the piston would stick out of the block way too far, roughly .064"

It would be even worse if you decked the block and head.

 

Rosko just replied to me... wow...you sir are a God.
I knew there must be a reason why no one did this
style... thank you.

I will go about the regular h23v and use your write up...
I do want to shave the block and mill the head the very
Minimum I need to make sure it straight and true...

Say I run a thicker HG to keep my CR in the lower 12's
Is this asking for trouble? Cosmetic HG and ARP fasteners
will be used...

 

there is no need to mill the head or the block if they are level. You are just taking away clearances and restricting motor from possibility doing anything more in the later times. Just need to very that its level that's it. Plus when you get custom pistons and rods you have to put that into consideration how that will effect things also

 

While that is true, if he uses the Cometic MLS gasket, he will be required to have the head and deck surfaced to Cometics RA recommendations to prevent leaks.

 

I really don't want to deck or mill... and I'm not sure if I will need too.
I did not have a blown HG... oil starvation got me :-(. I started noticing
My oil light would kick on if the RPMS dropped to 700-900 and would
Go off once it came back upto idle-1000-1100 rpm... changed to oil
Pump and it didn't save it in time. One hard pull later I could hear
Some light clatter at 2000-3000 rpm. Parked it.
I have an extra block so this will be a quick swap once all
The parts are in and I check and recheck all my clearances.

Hey rosko... on your h23 build guide. When running the
H23a1/f22a1 crank and rods and type-s pistons you stated
There is a rod modification needed... what is it? I am taking
The block to Dover machine shop here in Florida and would
like to have him do it all at once if I can. Thank you all BTW.

What would be the Max anyone would want to deck and mill
On an h23v setup?

 

The type-s piston is a floating wrist pin, so the rods need to have bushings put in so that they work with that style wrist pin instead of the press-fit like the older H series engines have.

If you are planning to run a type-s piston, as little milling as possible, as that combo already sticks out of the hole .020, and the piston has a large dome. This is also a factor depending on what cams you choose to use.

 

I'm not building some monster... just a rebuild the way I feel it should be.
I'm running the sgi rods and arp2000. Does anyone know if that star galixy
Rods are prepared already? I look at photos and they seem to have a brass/bronze
Sleeve pressed in... ? When buying my type s pistons I need to make sure they are
Full floating wrist pins? And h23 rods have the oil galleys in them right? Hence why
They do not use oil squirters like the h22 blocks? And aftermarket rods should have
The oil galleys aswell so the wrist pins can "float" right? I'm just trying to put together
a motor that will last along time so I can work on my suspension, I'm going to replace
everything suspension wise... and what I can't I will powder coat (spendals, trailing arms)
Don't need a super fast car. I just want to pull some 1g corners if I can LOL.

 

http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/pr...ect-build.html

That's my car pieced together LOL its a good car. She deserves a new heart and suspension

 

If the rod has a bushing in it then it should be setup for a floating setup. You may have to have them honed to fit the wrist pins but that should be it. Even if they fit, you should have them measured to check for the appropriate clearance.

Most rods have no oil hole through the beam, they do however have a small hole on top of the small end of the rod so the oil that gets flung up there can get to the wrist pin that way. Some people are concerned with the oil squirters and some are not, its personal preference. I do not run them.

If you have a bushed rod then you absolutely have to have a floating piston setup which uses pin locks so that something keeps the wrist pin from sliding out. A type-s piston is a full floating setup as is a usdm H22a4. The a4 pistons would still stick out of the hole but would give you a friendlier compression ratio.

 

What's the most I can bore the cylinders? They sale the type s pistons up to 88mm
Non forced induction just a NA motor

 

im running h22 rods lengths in the race car and my wifes h23v. for this to work, you have to have custom pistons made with the piston pin set higher and effectively lower the piston.

stock overbore is 87.25mm go any farther and you run into aluminum in which case you would sleeve the block.

 

I was thinking something like that... or how they line bore the mains, take off
A few thousands off the big end and re-bore to spec... Im just going todo
The regular way tho my friend. Thank you for the info.

Still waiting to hear how much I can bore my cylinders before the
FRM is to thin/weak for a NA motor... I would like Togo 88mm if
I can...

Sorry just seen you posted it... its sunny today and I can't see my phone screen lol

 

Like said before, some are for others are not. I run the squirters in my boosted h23v. I spin 8500 at track/dyno 8000 on street. They bolt in and have to be slightly bent to clear. Just try and aim them as close to original spot as possible. If you have them install them, I see no reason not to.

 

I can't speak for others, but I chose not to run the squirters so that I channel as much oil as possible to the main bearings, as that is the weakest link in the H23V setup IMO.

 

http://www.stargalaxyinc.com/product...m&pl=Rods&pi=1

Just for clarification ... those rods are bushed.Right? And most H/F Series have
a .866 wrist pin.Right? That being said, the h22 type s full floating pistons should
Work with any type of SGI h/f rods because they come bushed. Right? I am
Ordering the shorter h23a1 rods. But I just want this very clear to me... even tho
I have crunched the measurements and I'm sure it will work. One thing I have
learned in life is never second guess yourself. And if you do, ask or verify whatever
it my be. Thank you everyone for helping me. I ordered my Nippon h22 type s
Pistons 87.25mm, oil pump, and water pump. I am ordering the b/s delete and
Rods next week... owenby/carquest machine shop said my h23a1 crank needs
Welded. So its junk to me. Trying to find a f22a1/h23a1 crank that is certified
to be in spec...

 

Personally, if looking at a setup like you are, I would get these parts:

OEM Honda type-s 87.25 bore pistons.

OEM Honda H23A VTEC rods. <~~ These are .020 shorter than the H23A1 rod, so the piston will not stick out the deck, and they are bushed for floating wrist pins.

You get known Honda quality and sizing, for a bit more cash up front.

If you want part#s or anything let me know, I have all of these parts sitting in my garage

 

Is Honda the only place I can find these h23a vtec rods? Even if they are from an aftermarket
Parts provider? I know you can't beat Honda OEM parts for reliability, but I do plan
On higher RPMS at times. So I don't want to snap them :-/. If I could find h23a vtec
Rods in a aftermarket h/i beam I would definitely jump on them. I will do some
research on them tonight and see what I can find. I will also contact SGI and see if
They could make them or have them... do you know the precise h23a vtec rod
Length so I could have my ducks in a row when I call them? Thanks in advance

 

5.551 .021 shorter than the h23a1 rods... perfect. Buuuttt the main journals on the h23a crank are 55mm are the rod journals the same as a h23a1? Is what I need to know now...

 

Yup.

 

Aahhhaaa young grasshopper. You are wise beyond your hondatech posts...LOL now I need
To source some aftermarket h23a rods...

 

Any off the shelf aftermarket H23 rod is most likely going to 5.580 inches long. (OEM is 5.572) Most that I have seen are made to 5.580. It was explained to me that one company made them, botched the length measurement and then other aftermarket companies copied their specs not knowing they were .008" too long. Who knows if thats true or not, but OEM H23a1 is 5.572.

What you are looking for is the JDM H23a rods, which are 5.551 from the factory. These only came in the bluetop factory H23a motor and as far as I know the only place you'd be able to get them is from Japan. Even if you have the OEM part number I dont think you will just be able to go to the dealer and get them. Any aftermarket rods that length would be custom made. In my opinion I would buy the set Snobordboy has, those should be perfect fopr what you want to do.

 

I haven't found any of the correct h23a 5.551 rods :-/. SGI will make them if I order
50+ sets :-/ kinda of stumped ...

Snowboard would you sale your set?

Would like some real answers on this next question ... would it
Be possible to order the sgi h23a1 rods and have the big end
Half moon milled down .021-.020 and rebored to 2.008? Is this
Logical? Would it work? Or even possible at a machine shop?
When a machine shop reconditions the big end of used rods
What do they do? Do they do what I'm saying by removing
Some metal off the big end and rebore/hone to spec?
I would love my pistons to sit flush in my block...
Anyone that has had rods fixed or reconditioned let me know
What the process was... I see this the best way but maybe there's
others.. I know the custom pistons aswell but its alittle late my
pistons will be here the 16th...

 

Thats basically what they do but its not normally that much material, maybe a few thousanths of an inch (.001") off each half, then rehone to size. What you are suggesting is possible, but I dont think I would go to that much trouble.

Have you thought about just running a thicker gasket? Cometic makes a .051" thick gasket VS the stock .027", that would basically get you the same thing.

 

Yea, I know it is alot of trouble Togo thru for the right length rod... but honestly
Worth it if the only other option is stock rods from Japan that shouldn't be
Reved past like 7000rpm... and finding after market rods from Japan would
Be like finding a black grain of sand Miami's south beach...
This machine shop called owenby owes me a favor/good deal. I dropped
My block off to have it machined and it sat for two weeks then they called
and said the don't touch FRM sleeves... maybe they will give me a good deal
On some rod work... ill find out tomorrow.

And running the thicker head gasket was what I wanted todo... but I looked
at my block and it does need decked and I wanted to mill the head slightly...
And that would stick the pistons even further out of the cylinders :-/
Is it OK to run a .051 - .081 head gasket? I was worried about the rings
grabbing the deck on there way down... I would deck and mill a maximum
of .010 .. that could be .030+/- out of the whole.... how far down is the first
ring on the type s pistons?

Really leaning to a machine shop with the cohonas to take the .020 off for me or even
.010 would make me feel better :-/ ughhh my 4g63t build was a cake walk compared
to this...