First time using full synthetic
Car is 1998 Civic EX Coupe (D16Y8 motor) stock. Manual transmission and 125K miles.
I did an oil change using Mobile 1 Extended Life (full synthetic) and a Fram Ultra oil filter http://m.fram.com/oil_filters/ultra.html This is the first time I've used either one of these products. I am not usually a mark for advertising and hope
I didn't overspend for these: oil = $30 with tax included, filter = $10 with tax included. In the past I have always changed the oil and filter every 3k to 4k miles and figure the synthetic might even be a bit cheaper if it last 12k miles.
It feels like it is running a bit smoother now, but this may be a placebo effect..
Please comment on your experience with either or both products.
I did an oil change using Mobile 1 Extended Life (full synthetic) and a Fram Ultra oil filter http://m.fram.com/oil_filters/ultra.html This is the first time I've used either one of these products. I am not usually a mark for advertising and hope
I didn't overspend for these: oil = $30 with tax included, filter = $10 with tax included. In the past I have always changed the oil and filter every 3k to 4k miles and figure the synthetic might even be a bit cheaper if it last 12k miles.
It feels like it is running a bit smoother now, but this may be a placebo effect..
Please comment on your experience with either or both products.
Probably the placebo you are feeling, but you cant go wrong using synth over conventional.
I wouldnt go 12k on the oil though. 7500 tops.
I wouldnt go 12k on the oil though. 7500 tops.
change it at 5k and get it tested by a place like http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ and they will tell if you can go longer on the next change
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Also keep in mind if you own a oil burner, switching over can actually increase oil burn off.
Once you start getting into higher mileage engine life, switching oil sooner is always a good idea, but that oil lab remark is great if you want to be certain how long your oil is actually good for in your engine.
Once you start getting into higher mileage engine life, switching oil sooner is always a good idea, but that oil lab remark is great if you want to be certain how long your oil is actually good for in your engine.
Well I've found that if you're using something like Mobil 1 Full synthetic and are still adding a quart of oil every 500-1000 miles, even with something as thick as 5W-40, then you should try out a real full synthetic (PAO synthetic) like the "German" Castrol Syntec 0W-30 oil. It's sold exclusively at autozone, says "made in germany" (most castrol will say made in USA) and while it's touted as a 0W-30, it's actually thick enough to be classified as a 0W-40. Anyway I've found this oil to the best in terms of mitigating oil burn off. Don't go with something like 10W-40 or 20W-50, that will just accelerate engine wear while wasting gas.
Also keep in mind if you own a oil burner, switching over can actually increase oil burn off.
Once you start getting into higher mileage engine life, switching oil sooner is always a good idea, but that oil lab remark is great if you want to be certain how long your oil is actually good for in your engine.
Once you start getting into higher mileage engine life, switching oil sooner is always a good idea, but that oil lab remark is great if you want to be certain how long your oil is actually good for in your engine.
I'll have to keep a close watch whether it's burning oil or not. I just got an oil leak sealed that has been present since I bought the car eight months ago. I have read thats as well concerning full synthetic burning off quicker than conventional. If it is burning oil quicker than normal is okay to use 10w-40? (in southwest Florida).
The reason synthetic can burn more on these cars is a result of the piston rings(in most cases) being fried which allows oil blow by into the combustion chamber. Conventional oil can actually build up and fill intbetween these areas which actually helps the motor somewhat. Once you switch to synthetic, it cleans out the motor and removes those deposits, which can allow more blow by as a result.
At that point it is a trade off, Better oil versus more blow by. You will ruin spark plugs, O2 sensors and cats burning oil.
You can run thicker oil if you felt the need. Products like lucas oil stabilizer work under the same principle(a viscosity booster) Just without the additives of a 40 weight oil. Many people will suggest sticking with the factory recomended oil weight, but if your engine is getting tired sometimes that will help. If you aren't really burning any oil, or hearing any sort of knock from the engine, stick with 5w30. Maybe a 10w30 for hot weather use.
Honda's in general are known for burning oil, As long as you keep a close eye on the level, your engine should last a long time.
The reason synthetic can burn more on these cars is a result of the piston rings(in most cases) being fried which allows oil blow by into the combustion chamber. Conventional oil can actually build up and fill intbetween these areas which actually helps the motor somewhat. Once you switch to synthetic, it cleans out the motor and removes those deposits, which can allow more blow by as a result.
At that point it is a trade off, Better oil versus more blow by. You will ruin spark plugs, O2 sensors and cats burning oil.
You can run thicker oil if you felt the need. Products like lucas oil stabilizer work under the same principle(a viscosity booster) Just without the additives of a 40 weight oil. Many people will suggest sticking with the factory recomended oil weight, but if your engine is getting tired sometimes that will help. If you aren't really burning any oil, or hearing any sort of knock from the engine, stick with 5w30. Maybe a 10w30 for hot weather use.
The reason synthetic can burn more on these cars is a result of the piston rings(in most cases) being fried which allows oil blow by into the combustion chamber. Conventional oil can actually build up and fill intbetween these areas which actually helps the motor somewhat. Once you switch to synthetic, it cleans out the motor and removes those deposits, which can allow more blow by as a result.
At that point it is a trade off, Better oil versus more blow by. You will ruin spark plugs, O2 sensors and cats burning oil.
You can run thicker oil if you felt the need. Products like lucas oil stabilizer work under the same principle(a viscosity booster) Just without the additives of a 40 weight oil. Many people will suggest sticking with the factory recomended oil weight, but if your engine is getting tired sometimes that will help. If you aren't really burning any oil, or hearing any sort of knock from the engine, stick with 5w30. Maybe a 10w30 for hot weather use.
Exhaust emissions appear okay (not too dark or too light) Car has 125K on it so relatively low for the year make. If it is burning oil I will switch back to conventional, either 30 or possibily 40 weight. Thanks for the advice.
I've gone back and forth between dino and synthetic oils and didn't notice a damn thing.
And Hondas being known for burning oil is BS in my opinion. Engines that haven't had regular oil changes and/or have been abused are known for burning oil.
And Hondas being known for burning oil is BS in my opinion. Engines that haven't had regular oil changes and/or have been abused are known for burning oil.
Mobile 1 sucks anyways, it like putting water in your engine and dosent protect metal on metal wear. Old mobile one was good but that junk they have been putting out or the last few years is nasty.
here is what m1 has done in my engine for the last 100k+, I would say it does ok
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/oil-analysis-opinions-input-3059005/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/oil-analysis-opinions-input-3059005/
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