Does anyone know if a 28T front caliper bracket from a Legend GS/early NSX would work with the OE front ITR caliper? I was wondering if I could run the thicker 28 mm rotor with the stock caliper if I just change out the bracket. I just want a bigger heatsink for track use, that will still fit under 15s.

I ran the 2 piston Legend caliper and 28 mm rotor on my last ITR with success, but really only want the thicker rotor for my new car.

 

Yes, I am running the 28T bracket with the NSX caliper (same caliper body as ITR) and 300mmx28mm rotors (from the RL).

 

Yep, works just fine. Have the exact same setup on our race car. ITR calipers, 28t brackets, and re-drilled legend gs rotors.

 

Awesome, exactly what I wanted to hear.

 

Is there another option for rotors besides legend gs rotors in regards to not have to redrill?

 

Not that I know of. Re-drilling isn't really a big deal. You just need a template. I made one out of an old 4x100 integra rotor because our cars are 4x100. You could use 23t brackets with prelude rotors, but that would still require re-drilling. The only setup I've heard of that doesn't require re-drilling is using 23t brackets with mini cooper rotors. I don't know how effective that is though because I've never done it and I've heard the pads hang over the edge of the mini rotors.

 

Yup a local guy uses NSX brakes on his type R set up.

 

I run the Mini rotors with ITR calipers and the 23 or 25T brackets and have had no trouble. All bolt on, no mods needed for 4 lug.

 

If you don't mind me asking, how do you center the legend gs rotor on the 4x100 hub? Aren't the hub centers different diameters? I have the ITR/prelude set up now, I would really like to use the 28mm rotors on it for the track. Are you guys machining the 28t brackets like the 23ts?

 

Well, I'll try to explain what we do in the most clear manner that I can. Also, bare in mind that just because it works for us, doesn't mean it will work for you.

First thing is, we use a drill press. I've done a couple sets with a power drill on the floor by hand and while it is certainly doable, a drill press is so much easier.

I made a template by cutting the outer piece of a 4x100 rotor off. Basically, if you were dealing with a two piece rotor, my template would be the hat. Hopefully that makes sense.

As far as the actual drilling goes, it is very important that you use the correct size drill bit because the legend rotors are not hub centric to the integra knuckle, the 4x100 re-drill pattern is what centers the rotor. If you use a larger size drill bit than what is needed so you have some wiggle room, the rotor will never be centered on the hub and you will get some very interesting vibrations around 90mph-100mph that will not breed confidence. I can't remember what size we found to work the best but I will check for you tomorrow and edit this post so you have the info if you decide to re-drill yourself.

What we do to center the rotor to the template is utilize the threaded holes in the rotors that accept an 8 x something metric bolt. They are intended to be used if the rotor welds itself to the hub over time via rust build up. You thread two bolts in and as you tighten them down it will force the rotor off of the hub. We use them to center the rotor. You'll need to purchase two allen head bolts and the reason why will become apparent if you attempt the procedure yourself. The head of the allen bolt will center itself inside of the template while the threaded portion centers the template on the rotor you are drilling. Confused yet?

After we get the rotor and template setup, we use two small C clamps just as added insurance so there is no chance of movement during the drilling process. The clamps are placed through the hub center hole and tightened down.

After you've accomplished all of that, you are ready to drill. We found that contrary to normal procedure when drilling metal, it is best to actually start with the size drill bit you want the hole to be. If you start with small drill bits and work your way up, the holes tend to get off center. If you have access to a drill press set it up for slow speed and use a bit of lube to keep the drill bit cool. If you are doing it by hand, try to apply even force straight down, and use a moderate speed, maybe pull the trigger in half way or so. Also use some lube to help cool the drill bit. If you try to go ***** to the wall with your power drill, you will just burn up drill bits.

We did not machine the caliper brackets. We spaced the rotors out about 3mm because we are using ARP extended wheel studs. Some will argue that doing so is dangerous, but king motorsports did it on their rsx and if it was good enough for them, it's good enough for us.

I just re-read my post and I lol'd at the length and how complicated the process sounds. It really is very easy after you do it once and establish the proper setup, I swear

If you have any other questions I'd be happy to try to help if I can.

 

^^ Thanks for all the info, that actually makes a lot of sense. I have done it similar process with the prelude rotors, but that is an awesome idea to use the bolt holes to line them up! I do have a drill press, so that isn't an issue. What did you use to cut the old rotor apart to make the template? Also if you have a chance to check on the size of that bit that would be great. Thanks again!