Should I buy a high mileage GSR?
So I'm looking to pick up this very high mileage GSR for 2000 it has 212k miles and its all stock. An older white male owns it and they are all highway miles. Bad thing is that the cam seal leaks and the valve cover leaks, no problems, and the shocks are bad which is not bad too. Should I pick it up?


thats really all you can find now.... high mileage GSR that is. if that cam seal and VC seal are the only things that need to be replaced..... yes i would buy it. two vary easy and cheap things to replace.
and we all know your going to lower the integra so you will replace them anyway so......
the body looks strait, dont see much rust if any..... just look over it or take it to a mechanic.
and we all know your going to lower the integra so you will replace them anyway so......
the body looks strait, dont see much rust if any..... just look over it or take it to a mechanic.
Depends on the price. Im in the market for a GSR too...
Been seeing ALOT of cars in my area in the $4000-$6000 range... All clean low mileage cars... With that many miles you shouldnt be paying more than $3500 for a GSR and that assuming the rest of the car is clean.
Been seeing ALOT of cars in my area in the $4000-$6000 range... All clean low mileage cars... With that many miles you shouldnt be paying more than $3500 for a GSR and that assuming the rest of the car is clean.
If you plan on replacing most of that anyway then go for it. I bought a very high mileage GSR & have no regrets, it was adult owned & 100% stock. Rebuild/ repair/ replace what you need to & keep on going. Just be prepared for that, if that's not something you want to deal with then look elsewhere. Feels a lot better than buying someone elses project & trying to piece it together.
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Buy it. You can't find stock GS-R's anymore, especially from older white males
If I were you I'd buy it and restore it with all OEM parts, don't even boher modding it and buying bullshit for it.
I also believe that teal color was only available in 1994. Buy it, restore and keep it safe.
If I were you I'd buy it and restore it with all OEM parts, don't even boher modding it and buying bullshit for it.I also believe that teal color was only available in 1994. Buy it, restore and keep it safe.
What up ht been awhile...had to chime in here. 8 months ago I grabbed a 95 gsr with 259k onher. Have had two other dc2s both under 150k...mine came with dc header test pipe skunk 2 mega exhaust and skunk2 pro coilovers. Real color is paradise blue green metallic but was resprayed black at some point. My point is dude it was rode hard, and all I've done is tightened up some screws, bolts etc. here n there, it uses only half quart between changes and still runs amazing. I am restoring it now and I would highly suggest you buy this rare 94 you found. Btw my engine/ trans are original non rebuilt,and I've been beating it for 5,000 miles since I got her...b series are notoriously stout.
Looks nice. Not big on that color but yea it looks clean. I would offer him 1,500 and go up in price from there. With 212k on it and it needing those things I would'nt give him over 1,800.
if it came from a non rust state you have a solid $2000 car. it's nice when people know their values off the bat and you don't have to dicker
i personally would do a compression test just to make sure the engine isn't on borrowed time. as long as you don't have one cylinder that's like 30-40psi down and it shifts well and priced right it could be worth picking up
make sure you disconnect the distributor before you do the compression test.
you'll fry the coil if you don't
i personally would do a compression test just to make sure the engine isn't on borrowed time. as long as you don't have one cylinder that's like 30-40psi down and it shifts well and priced right it could be worth picking up
make sure you disconnect the distributor before you do the compression test.
you'll fry the coil if you don't
Btw if average mileage is 12k yearly, which it is I'm in the car business, then a 1994 vehicle could have 228k and in fact be "under average mileage"...also in most states cars older than 10,years state exceeded limits anyhow. Sooo the value of car is largely based on location. This 94, assuming its rust free which I doubt being in Maryland...would easily fetch 3grand, detailed with tires and services complete in the Ohio region I'm in. Buying this car for two or less is like getting an uber complete b18c1,trans everything swap, and a free real dc2 chassis to boot...yes go rob that old man asap.
Thanks guys for all the opinions! My mind has been set on it for the past few days and I will most likely pick it up after New Years! I will update this thread if I do pick it up and if he hasn't sold it but he's holding it for me right now so I'm guessing it's going to be mine!
This is going to be my daily driver.
This is going to be my daily driver.
I have personally seen and driven very high mileage GSR's,
289K was the highest.
And they all ran just fine.
The camseals and spool valve assy always leaks from that area when left unserviced, and is an easy unexpensive fix.
I actually say shoot it as I particulary like that year/color/int combo.
Just prepare to weed out some small issues associated with high mileage vehicles, And get ready to spend a little more dough lacing up the car.
289K was the highest.
And they all ran just fine.
The camseals and spool valve assy always leaks from that area when left unserviced, and is an easy unexpensive fix.
I actually say shoot it as I particulary like that year/color/int combo.
Just prepare to weed out some small issues associated with high mileage vehicles, And get ready to spend a little more dough lacing up the car.
As long as there is no rust, I do not see rear wheel arch rot, if there is none and the interior is in good shape, I would not care if it did not run, $2000 for a rust free 94ish Integra, I would have picked it up already, a running car would just be a bonus.
And you know what they say about us older white guys, we never race around in our cars. 94
And you know what they say about us older white guys, we never race around in our cars. 94
The listed problems are cheap fixes and if you're planning on doing a suspension setup I'd say go for it. 250k on stock suspension is rough though. Make sure you check over ball joints lca bushings before driving too much.
Joined: Feb 2004
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.... Just expect to replace bushings and other rubber suspension components. Especially if u do any hard cornering. This is experience talking!
And had I planned it all out, I woulda gotten a prothane master bushing kit. Front n back can be had for around $200 online. As it stands, I'm buying smaller kits as needed.
And worse case scenario, you'll have a good chassis to drop a low mileage engine into.
And had I planned it all out, I woulda gotten a prothane master bushing kit. Front n back can be had for around $200 online. As it stands, I'm buying smaller kits as needed.
And worse case scenario, you'll have a good chassis to drop a low mileage engine into.
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CrazyModGSR
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Apr 17, 2003 01:20 AM






