Shout out to the KINGS PERFORMANCE team for going 8.79 @ 158 yesterday in the v160 driven Yellow Bullet S-2000!


In addition to the other rebuild threads here, I wanted to add mine in hopes of further documenting the disassembly, diagnosing, and rebuild process.

A couple years ago, I started having some issues with 3rd gear popping out when barely accelerating. I thought it may have been the shifter bushings or possibly an internal issue, so I pulled the trans completely to find rotted shifter bushings. After ordering billet bushings, I drained the tranny fluid to find this:


What you see here is broken bits of a needle roller bearing and a straightened piece of a spring.



The above confirmed it was internal, and I began the rebuild.

Removing the outer cases is pretty straight forward, so I'm not going to post pics of each outer bolt/detent *****. Also, I'm not going to show every single step. If you follow the manual, you'll be fine. But ask any questions you may have and I'll do my best to assist.

Removing the companion flange



Removing the 5 lock *****/springs on the outside of the case



Found more of the broken bits of needle bearings, ball, and one of two bolts that holds the counter gear rear bearing retainer just laying there. I attribute that bolt laying there to half-*** mechanic work done previously.



In this photo, I moved the stray bolt to where it should have been tight and secure for you to see.


Removed the bell and two more ***** fell out (these ***** sit on a spring within the locking key of the 3-4 clutch hub)


PROBLEM FOUND! Somehow the ball removed itself from the 3-4 clutch hub, allowing the spring that it sits on to creep out and get jammed. The piece of spring in the first pic posted broke off from here. That ball being out of place caused the slider not to stay locked in place which allowed the slider to fall back into the neutral position when gas was applied while the slider was engaged with the third gear receiver teeth.

 

Taking off the counter shaft lock nut.

 

Removing 6th gear




6th gear is off. Be advised that a needle roller bearing is supposed to be on that shaft. . . but nothing is there - WTF!


Check out the back of the 6th gear assembly. There are not supposed to be any scores as you see here. The inner clutch hub that connects to the rear face of 6th looks as though it got so hot that it disintegrated the plastic template the needle bearings sit in and the play it allowed between 6th and the actual output shaft left enough room for all the needle bearings to snap and work their way out. This is where all the fragments I found upon initially opening up the case came from. All that black crud you see on the outer rim is what's left of the plastic template a needle bearing is encased in to make a complete needle roller bearing. Basically, the needle roller bearing slides over the output shaft first, followed by a gear. This actually explains the ever so slight wine I used to hear when the car would be in 6th.


Here is what a needle roller bearing looks like. This is the needle roller bearing from 4th gear sitting beside the remains of the needle bearings that found their way off the output shaft from within 6th gear.

 

Removing the counter 6th gear.



Removing the lock slider...



These are just the lock slider set screws screwed back into the slider plate to prevent misplacing.


Back to the output shaft...removing a snap ring


Check out these score marks where the 6th gear counter goes. Maybe those bits of bearings worked their way into this area after falling out of their original location?!?!


Nice hairline crack in the output shaft front bearing, huh! That was one of three cracks found.


The other two cracks...makes me wonder if the herpderp who was in this tranny last got crazy with a hammer or something. Then again, who knows. Maybe this was caused by intense friction.

 

Pressing the output shaft out of the intermediate plate...the counter shaft falls right out with the output shaft, obviously.


Output shaft pressed out of the intermediate plate. That's the same large bearing shown earlier with the three hairline cracks.



Rear view of output/counter shaft free of intermediate plate...



A nasty little score in the front end of the output shaft, dammit! The output shaft front bearing with the three hairline cracks is the same bearing that sits on this exact part of the shaft. The inside of the bearing had the same scores in it. Time to buy a new output shaft, FML.



Check out the heat marks on this synchro...



This is a picture of how a key, spring and ball should look. Left is good, the right, not so much. The small plates on the top are what slide into the hub sleeve. The key/spring/ball assembly fit into the clutch hub, which then slides into the hub sleeve.

 

I just got around to measuring the gear thrust and radial clearances before I pressed off the gears. Now that the gears are off, I'm going to check for any shaft runout, then start ordering parts. . . .

 

Everything is in sequence.

Second gear goes back on with the 1/2 cluth hub (1/2 clutch hub must be pressed back on):



1/2 hub sleeve going on to the 1/2 cluth hub:


Inserting the key, ball, and spring (3x) into the 1/2 clutch hub/sleeve assembly:




Heating up the first race to install along with the first synchro set:



First race and synchro on:


Needle bearing, then first gear:

 

Stop disk:




Heating up the second race:


Race on:


Reverse gear needle bearing, reverse gear, and reverse synchro:








Reverse hub (must be pressed on) on, along with the rear bearing and speed sensor drive. You may need to heat that speed sensor drive up:

 

Now we start with the opposite side of the shaft with 3rd gear...


Third gear needle bearing along with third gear and synchro:





3/4 hub assembly (must be pressed on):



4th gear needle bearing along with 4th gear:




From bottom to top you see reverse, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. 5th and 6th will go on once this stack is back in the intermediate plate.

 

This set of pics is a bit out of sequence but you get the idea, hopefully.
6th counter gear washer:


6th gear counter on counter gear shaft:


6th gear needle bearing:




6th gear:



6th gear synchro:



Coming along:




This is the 5/6 clutch hub that I already pressed on. Now we'll install the springs, *****, plates, and slider:

 

Return shaft and 5/6 shift fork:




The intermediate plate lock *****:




Adjusting preload spring and output shaft front bearing:





Main control shaft pins/rollers:

 

I redid my garage which is why the background is different in case you were wondering. This picture shows the the input shaft/5th gear put together, and the front/rear case ready to be bolted on:









Now it's on to rebuild a few more boxes:

 

looks complicated

 

You're using this tranny in an s2k?

Do you have a gte swap too?

 

I've rebuilt a v160 for the Yellow KINGS PERFORMANCE car, and have contemplated picking up an S2K for a v160 swap.

I do have a GTE powered car, though.

 

How much does one of these go for?

 

$3,500-5,500

 

Meh, Looks Easy.

JK, Good Job. Nice work.

 

How much for a re-build? typical range please

great work btw

 

Full Blown Motorsports makes the S2K V160 conversion with a Ford 8.8 rear end, which I believe is what Kings runs.

Props to the OP. Looks complicated, but seems you got that thing handled.

 

 

Normally depends on what's wring with the box. A typical range is about $1,300 for all new bearings, synchros, and any gears that need to be replaced.

You have PM.



Yes, that's what the KINGS car runs.

Thanks for the praise, guys.

 

I'll vouch for Mr. Swing lo, I've known him for years and have been amazed with all his builds and work. Still awaiting for the arrival of his new creation to hit the streets also. Lookin good as always homie.