To start it all off Hello everyone at Honda-tech and thank you for all your valuable information you have provided. So heres the issue. Ive got a 91 CRX SI with a fully built B20V (1500miles on build) with Innovate LC1 wideband so all the wiring is OBD0. I had the motor running decent on a PR3 OBD0 ecu the only issue I had was I could not get the real time programming or datalogging to work with BRE and my Ostrich2.0 and HuLog. So I decided to swap to obd1 for the obvious reasons, better software support and just more support with everything. So i got my conversion ready by buying a chipped p28 ecu, conversion harness, and I had the old b20 (TD-74u) dizzy from when I bought the b20 long block (30k miles). Started the swap last weekend with the dizzy, grinding down the extra ear so it would fit and splicing in the obd2b plug correctly and verifying continuity from the obd0 ecu plug to the dizzy plug. Everything was A-ok. Then I plugged in the OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harness and spliced in the extra wires that needed to be spliced such as +12V, 2 grounds, O2, Vtec solenoid and pressure switch wires. I exported the OBD0 map and imported into a new P30 map created with Crome, disabled the Checksum, and tried to start the car. Nothing, no fuel pressure to exact. After about 15 hours of checking wiring diagrams and quadruple checking all the wiring for the main relay I ended up grounding the main relay wire so the pump would turn on with ignition. So now the fuel pressure problem was fixed. Then I double checked my spark and it was intermittent. Turn out the main Ign input wire (Blk/yell) to the dizzy was intermittent to the ignition switch so instead of rewiring everything for the 15th time I ran a wire right from where it comes out of the ignition switch to the wire in the dizzy plug. Got my spark back. So now that I have fuel and spark I am still boggled to find my motor not even trying attempting to start. Checked timing when cranking and its shows about 16 degrees. Does anyone have any suggestions on what it could possibly be? Thanks again HT

Setup
B20B block
YCP Pistons
Stock crank/rods
Fully PNP B16 head
Crane cams Stg2 cams
Blox dual springs
Titanium retainers
Edelbrok Intake mani
70mm TB
PLM Header
2.5" exhaust w/ magnaflow muffler

 

UPDATE* Car runs with starting fluid so apparently injectors arent spraying. Just found and removed injector resistor box with hope, still nothing. All wiring to injectors have continuity. Anything in Crome that would mess with high impedance injectors, they are from an Acura RDX 410cc. Thats the only thing I can think of that would mess with the signals. Ive tried 3 ecus and 2 conversion harnesses.

 

MORE UPDATE!** after over a week of messing with it and troubleshooting I figured out that it was the injectors not opening. Well with a search I quickly found this https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/injectors-wont-open-3056791/. I had the exact same problem as this guy, my CKP and CYP wire on the dizzy harness was switched. The second image down in this thread https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/obd0-pin-out-2911958/ has the wires B10 and C1 mixed up. C1 is the crank angle sensor and B10 is the cylinder position sensor. Also in this thread for the dizzy wiring it shows the same mistake if you look at the actual CYP and crank position wires on the OBD0 plug. https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/obd0-obd1-distributor-jumper-harness-2744791/ Wires 2 and 4 had to get switched to fix the problem. So I guess the ultimate rule in a situation like this is always check your sources haha DIY til I die!!!!