hello again i have a b18c5 in my 98 gsrand sometimes it will go from idling normal to idling high which in return disables my vtech..

First off a little background- the previous owner swapped the cluster at some point so when my car is idling normal it sites around the zero line and when its acting up at high idle it will sit at about 900 rpm. Which is right where it sits when shes warming up.

so i will start my car up and when she warms up the rpm will drop to the zero mark (which for my car due to the cluster is normal) and it will drive normally then intermittently when i come to a stop or my cars been idling for a little while/sitting still the rpm's will shoot up to 900-1000 rpm and my vtech wont work. i'm guessing its because my car thinks that its not warmed up so disables vtech..? iv owned the car for about 4 months and it seems to be happening more frequently, but it might be because i just started to notice when this happens. if i turn my car off and start it back up again 99% of the time the rpms will go back down to normal and everything is perfect until the rpm's shoot back up again!!! This is driving me crazy! please help!
ETC sensor?
Fast idle thermo valve?
Idle air control valve?


off topic- for the people who saw my last post where that person hit me and i was waiting on insurance. well got the estimate and it was 2200 dollars to replace the rear quater, new tire, and to buff/polish my wheel. Just waiting for her insurance to okay the repair! or tell me to get some other estimates from other places. or they could find this to high of a price and total her.. still waiting on the 100% answer..

 

Yes if if the motor is not at temp the ecu will not activate vtec until it reads full temp. Y
our temp sensor might be acting up or going bad. Its located on the thermostat.
Also check your map sensor it might also be bad.
What cluster is on the car? is it a gsr? You will need the green film from the back of the original cluster or the same year/mk and model electric green film that's located on the back of the cluster, using the wrong one will run the cluster all crazy or improper, and your gauges will not work properly.
If all that checks out you might need to check the dizzy and see if the motor is idling correct or if your getting a solid connection. A digital rpm gauge taped to the back of cluster would give you a better idea on letting you know if your idle is correct.

 

Yes it is a gsr and the cluster was replaced with another gsr cluster due to the original one had a crack in it. I do have the original cluster in my position too. I know what you're talking about because randomly when i hit vtech the rpm needle with get all nutty and my fuel gauge is definitely off.
When you say check out the sensors, do you mean check for physical damage? or is there a bunch of test that i can perform using my multiplier? voltage, resistance, etc?

I can definitely see it being a faulty sensor sending a intermittent signal to the ecu that my engine temperature is off and sending it back into "warm up mode" BUT why wouldnt the rpm go back down without me having to turn the motor off and on again?

 

Ok first take out the cluster and put the green electric film from the original cluster on the good cluster your using and see if the problem goes away. Yes i believe you can test the voltage and continuntity of the wires to see if the sensors are damaged but usually you will get a check engine light if any of the motors sensors fail.

 

i don't see how this will make my problem go away? the film strip won't cause this issue and when this happens the rpm goes up and i can hear a definite rise in exhaust tone caused by my motors rpm rising too.

I just scanned it with my stinger obd2 scanner ( advanced autoparts type of scanner ) and i got an "error" message. the engine light bulb is blown/got taken out of my current cluster, but im sure its on due to my lack of cat.

As i was digging through my car to do all this i did find two cut wires on my ecu harness that were just sitting there with no tape or nothing on them... and the wire that goes from my Vtech solenoid to my ecu looks in rough shape where its connecting to the ecu harness...