So I have been on and off this site for awhile...I have a 95 Integra gsr, with Ls vtec. I have been wanting to do a decent motor build for the teg. This is what I got so far, let me know what you guys think. Agian just a mild build nothing crazy.

GSR block bored 81.50
Eagal ls H beam Rods
Ls Crank
Nippon pr3 81.5 pistons
Thinking about a good header, have a dc 4-2-1 right now.

Going with a b16a2 head with Ferra 5000 Flat valves
Super tech springs and retainers
Endyn bumpstix
pnp the head
3 angle valve
440 cc injectors
walbro fuel pump

Still thinking about flywheel, but exedy stage 1 clutch

Let me know what you guys think so far, will post pics when I get off work.
Trying to hit 200 hp..that is my goal, anything over will be a bonus.

Also I live in the Plano area and looking for a good machine shop that deals with imports. Wanting to race balance the whole block.

 

Pics or it didn't happen!

 

This is what I got so far.

 

This is how she sits now....

 

looks like a nice build, should be a solid street car and be plenty of fun. good luck man

 

I like the parts collection so far. Keep her going man.

 

Thanks guys, need to find a good machine shop here in DFW. Was thinking about Alamo Auto Sports. Just hoping to hit the 200 mark. Will update pics soon as I get my flywheel and clutch in.

 

Update:

Picked up Exedy Stage 1 clutch and Exedy 9.5lb flywheel. Now looking for a machine shop. Thinking of going with ARP flywheel and clutch bolts.

Question tho? Is this flywheel going to be to light for street DD use? I got a good deal on it brand new. Wondering if I should try to trade for 12.lb?

 

Update, so decided to get her back on the road, but with out bigger cams. going with stock gsr cams. I have the head back from machine shop and was told that pnp would not be good for my build for the cost of doing it. I have the block springs and retainers in it and wanted to know if I could still user the gsr cams in it. I still need to find some injectors that will work, but on a budget.

 

stock cylinder heads flow great, and if your goal is 200whp running an unported head should def not inhibit horsepower gains in the 200 area unless your particular setup requires porting due to a custom nature of the build (custom cams, tuning, etc.)

Your cylinder head guy probably didn't recommend porting anyways due to the fact he most likely hooked you up with a good valvejob when adding those flatfaced valves. This alone makes the head flow much better.
Looking at your setup it looks like compression wont be a problem, and a larger selection of cam can be utilized to achieve your goals.

The only things I would change is header, (searching will tell you what ones make power for 1.8L)

I would have personally ran stock rods shotpeened w/ARP hardware, running those cast pistons. (Lighter)

And I would most likely want to run the RDX injectors (denso bodies)

 

To the OP: what is your exact budget? if its not a problem, you should send off your piston rings and wrist pins to get WCP treated by inlinefour.com ya know. Depending on how much you will be abusing this motor and only if your willing to do it. its not necessary, but would be benificial. header wise, look into a toda replica header or SMSP replica header. as far as headwork, if you dont do any at all then a good clean up and valve job could be good. some bowl blending if funds are there and if you dont wanna go all out could work too! If you have anyone if your area that can port match then that can help out as well. what intake manifold/throttle body are you gonna be using?

 

Looks clean man, good luck....

 

Looks like a solid build good luck with everything.

 

Like Beecee18 said that header will hold you back didn't see an exhaust on you'r list what are you thinking of and test pipe or HFC ? stock b16 im + TB also ?

 

Running stock injectors for now. Still need better headers, I have the DC Sports 4-2-1.

I have the engine together now, I dont plan on racing this engine, just good street fun every now and then. Just want a solid dd ya know.


Thank you.

 

Update, so got the engine together and put back in the car. Built the oil pressure up by disconnecting the dizzy wiring wise. Then plugged the dizzy back up and she wont start. She will crank but sounds like it wants to back fire. Thinking that I'm not getting spark. When I turn the key off then back on, of course that turns on the fuel pump it makes a muffled pop sound.

 

Im running type r intake with a port matched 68mm Omini , headers are dc sport 4-2-1

 

I read up on those..seems like a pain in the *** but cheap, I think they are like 40 bucks a piece I think.

 

Sounds like your plug wires are not right on dist cap if its trying to backfire, means you do have spark.

 

Yeah that was the first thing I thought of. Even if it was off a tooth you would figure it would still try to start. It cranks but not starting. I heard putting oil in where the spark plugs go help with compression..have not tried that and sounds weird to me. Bad gas maybe, its been sitting for about 3 months. I also have those new e3 spark plugs I think they are called, could that be the problem.

 

Double check all eng/trans grounds- have you looked inside cap for corrosion on terminals of cap and rotor? Tried old spark plugs yet. Good reason to keep old parts around(in case problem w/new). Download free service man online and you can test ignitor while inside dist

 

Yeah going to do that here in a few..Dam rain wont stop lol. Going to pull the spark plugs and check cap and rotor. I have my old spark plugs. Ill post here in a few. Thank you.

 

e3 plugs? Oh god no those things are HORRIBLE.

go get some standard NGK plugs!

it also sounds like your firing order is off.

it should be

34
12 starting at the top left when looking at it from the passanger side.

also, looking from the front of the car the cylinders are in this order

4 3 2 1

So make sure that's all right. I made the mistake of thinking the car was actually 1 2 3 4. It wanted to crank, but would back fire like crazy. I think it actually would fire up too! but oh god the noise it made cause it backfired constantly.

 

His cap firing order is right. Remember eng rotates counter-clockwise. However, when looking at distributor side, it turns clockwise. Firing order on every 4banger is 1342- regardless of manufacturer. I agree, all I run in hondas is basic ngk. Plug #1 is always closest to timing chain/belt regardless of manufac. Hope its just plug wires- lotsa luck

 

Not exactly. My old ford was not the same. Depends on the cam lobes. If they open in a diff order, it can fire on a diff cyl in the pair. It was 1234. The crank journals are still offset the same but the pistons come up in pairs and can be a diff one in the pair. OP ignore this. Your firing order IS 1342. Just not all cars.