Ok, I'm gonna try and describe my problem as best as I can.
Ill be driving along, everything working just fine, come up to a red light, and as I'm taking off it'll bog REALLY bad. So bad that ill have rev up pretty high AND ride the clutch a lot to get it to take off. It'll do this all the way through 3rd and when I hit 4th, it runs just fine.
One time it randomly died at a light and I couldn't start it for about 5 minutes.. Other times, it'll have a really hard time starting. It sounds like it has to wind up as its starting(as in, as the motor is cranking, it slowly spurt gets to life faster and faster until it runs.) and then sputters and sounds like a diesel (glug glug glug) and runs rich for a minute and then idles ok.
When I checked the voltage at the injectors, the one (looking at the motor from the front of the car) on the far left is at 10.4 and the rest are at 11.6. Also, when I checked the wiring at the plug on top of the fuel gauge thing underneath the storage compartment, one side only had 6.6 volts going to it and the other had 0.

What in the world is going on?!?!

 

ive been having this same problem for a while now.so far i am led to believe it is my fuel pump because my fuel pressure drops when i accelerate,i just dont have the $150+ to dish out to autozone for a new pump..

check to see if your fuel pressure drops when it is bogging.run a fuel pressure gauge in a way that you can see it as you are driving.

 

Don't go to autozone for anything. I'm on my 4th distributor in less than a month. I'm gonna get one from eBay and also get a fuel pressure gauge.

 

It may be the fuel pump, but it could also be the igniter in the distributor.

I had the same problem. Starting off, it would randomly bog down and stall out. Not often but every once in a while.

I had to stop and restart. Was not sure if it was the fuel pump so I did a bit of research and found that the igniter can sometimes give that problem. So I got a new igniter and installed it and so far it has not had that problem since in over 40K miles.

Here is another tip. I just installed a set of 4 hole injectors in my 1991 Honda CRX HF with the stock D15B6 engine. My fuel economy is now way better than the stock injectors. With my car, with a full tank of gas, with the old injectors, I was able to go about 250 miles from full to half tank. With the new 4 hole injectors, I've gone 379 miles from full to half tank. My car now can go 740 miles from full to almost empty where before it was 610.

My idle is now smoother and the car now has better throttle response and I don't have to downshift as often.

I highly recommend the 4 hole injectors.

 

Do you continually drive nothing but downhill?

 

bump

 

No, but I do a bit of hyper miling. With the 12 gallon tank I have and the new injectors, I am getting around 60 MPG which is way better than the factory stock injectors. With the stock injectors I was getting around 45-50 MPG which is not too bad. I also have done some aerodynamic modifications that help with MPG a lot. Heck, one 91 CRX HF got over 109 MPG in a contest a while back.

I've rebuilt the car pretty much from ground up myself with new almost everything and have rebuilt the transmission with all new gears and bearings. Right now it has over 300K miles on it. It is not the highest mileage Honda I've had as I had a 90 Civic SI that had over 757K miles that I put on all myself. It eventually died and I wanted better mileage so I got this CRX HF and am glad I did.

I get a lot of requests about selling it. I won't as I love the MPG on this thing plus all the room in the back.

I've owned a lot of cars but this one I want to keep. The best car I ever owned.

 

So then where did you get the injectors? Local parts store, eBay, Craigslist?

 

Bump. Can anyone explain wtf is going on?

 

check voltage at the tps and map sensor! 1wire should be 12v 1wire should b 5v 1 wire should ground! for both. if they both check out good test the idle air control valve! see if the solenoid works let car warm up and disconnect the 2wire plug if the idle automaticly drops in the car the solenoid is fine okay how to tell if the valve is good is different story first let car warm up! then turn off the car disconnect 2 wire plug turn car on it will want to die dont let it once u get it to barly stablize adjust the idle skrew located on the front of the throttle body adjust it till your tach reads abouve the 500 rpm mark turn car off reconnect the 2wire plug! restart battery and start car back up your idle should be at 650 rpm to no more then 800! if that works your valve is good do all these test first let me no what you get! as for me i think you have a faulty map sensor!

 

if your car starts at all times ur pump is good if u want to test it! just do a crank test disconnect the fuel line that feeds the fuel filter put it in a 2lt bottle while your cranking see if that thing is gushing fuel out then uall no if it works! a bog also could be vacuum leak check all vacuum lines with soapy water spray bottle. look for air bobbles a bog also is known to be caused by the iacv while cars on just disconnect it after the cars warmed up leave it on also uall have a check engine light but see if the car still boggs after! if it dont just replace the iacv

 

Rpm gauge doesn't work. I know it's way off. At idle it reads 0 and when I'm driving, when I know I'm shifting at around 2500, it's saying I'm shifting at 1000-1500. Ill check the voltage.

 

1 wire reads 0 and the other read 4.something on the tps. On the map, 1 wire reads 5.something and the other reads 4.something. On the iacv, it works.

 

Drinkin bump