Have a 2001 Accord EX 5sp with just over 100k. Have owned it for just about 1 year and 10k miles, almost all city driving. No sign that the clutch is slipping

I have a few problems that may or may not be related. here goes.

1-Since day one the clutch fork vibrates against the slave cylinder. Sounds like crickets, but doesn't seem to be a real problem.

2-If I give it too much gas coming from a stop light the the car “shivers”.

3-In 4th and 5th gears, while accelerating at about 2500 rpm, everything but the steering wheel will shake. Harder acceleration equals more vibration. Let off the gas and the vibration goes away.

4-Dry compression is 210 psi, all four cylinders. Yeah, that’s what I said, two hundred ten.

Replaced front, left, and right motor mounts.
Plugs, distributer cap and rotor were replaced last month. Old plugs looked damned near new when removed.
Did valve adjustment. Quieter and smoother than before, but still some ticking. Problems one and two seemed cured, but only for a couple of weeks.

Any suggestions?

 

Where the noise coming from?? Axles??wheel bearings?

 

Only noises are the crickets from the clutch fork and slightly noisy valves.

 

Sorry for the bump

 

Throw out bearing and prob needs a valve adjustment. Is it a v6

 

thanks for the reply.

it is an l4 ULEV. Just checked the EGR and while the valve clicks, there is no change in idle. UH OH.

Is the throw out bearing just a noise issue, or do you think it is the cause of the other problems/

Thanks again

 

Just a noise problem but about that egr problem your passages may be plugged from carbon n needs cleaning. On models 90-93 a major problem they have is all of the exaust gas would go into one cylinder causing a missfire. One way to verify if you have a egr problem causing a missfire you do this. Hold the brakes down and press the gas gently increasing idle and it would miss. You'll know its a egr passage problem.
If its clogged you should be getting a mil light on for p0401. Could be your missfire problem maybe not but you can clean it n see what happens. Test the valve also. Here's more info how to clean. http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=31865

 

How did u test the egr?? With a scanner?

 

Was looking at that thread earlier. Great pics. Not thrilled about getting at the nuts behind the plenum. Maybe it's not as hard as it looks. No way I'm removing the manifold myself.

As far as testing the valve. T1-T2=2000 ohms. T1-T3=5000. Can hear the solenoid click when connected to 9v battery, but no real change in idle when doing so.

Won't likely find time to pull valve till weekend, and maybe not till spring.

BTW - no codes

thanks again

 

That might not be a valid test. It be best to use a scanner n increase the opening on the egr and see if that's the problem before taking everything apart n start cleaning out your ports. I'm saying this because usually it would throw a insufient egr flow code.

 

Good news. Retested egr with 12v from battery. Instant stall, so egr seems good, along with ports I would assume.

Bad news. What now?

 

Wheel balance?

 

First thing everybody, including myself, says is wheel balance and tires.

Still get get past the fact that the steering wheel does not shake and there is a remarkable difference between accelerating and coasting.

Can a CV joint cause this?

 

Yes!!

 

Thanks for the help. I'm gonna take a break from this for a day or two.

If New England weather allows I'll throw the snow tires on and redo the valves this weekend.

Any idea how to test a CV joint other than grabbing and shaking?