B18C1 Motor Value?
I have a B18C1 long block that has been sitting in my garage for about 4 years. It has roughly 83,000 miles. I am finally going to sell it since I know I will never swap it. What is a fair price to sell it for nowadays? I did some research but I want the H-T opinion.
- All sensors on the intake manifold
- No timing belt
- AEM Cam Gears
- AEM Lightweight Pulleys
- Cap and dizzy need to be replaced
- All sensors on the intake manifold
- No timing belt
- AEM Cam Gears
- AEM Lightweight Pulleys
- Cap and dizzy need to be replaced
Kind of an open question, you can sell it for whatever you want, what you get for it will be what someone want's to pay for it.
Keep in mind, an engine, [any engine, with accessories] at a PicknPull is about $200 with a 30day return for credit or exchange also keep in mind the chances of finding a B18c1 at a PicknPull are slim, so base your asking price on that. 94
Keep in mind, an engine, [any engine, with accessories] at a PicknPull is about $200 with a 30day return for credit or exchange also keep in mind the chances of finding a B18c1 at a PicknPull are slim, so base your asking price on that. 94
I know that it is a subjective question. I see GSR heads going for around $400-$500, so I know a full block will be higher than that. I am just looking for a range here.
For a longblock with no tranny, i would say $800-1100 but it depends on the market in your area and how motivated you are to sell it. I just rebuilt a GSR (longblock and tranny) and sold it to a friend for $1500 and he paid for the machine work. I figured $500 per piece (tranny, head, block)...hope this helps
For a longblock with no tranny, i would say $800-1100 but it depends on the market in your area and how motivated you are to sell it. I just rebuilt a GSR (longblock and tranny) and sold it to a friend for $1500 and he paid for the machine work. I figured $500 per piece (tranny, head, block)...hope this helps
What I would do is to do some research. Figure out what the average price is in your area... (craigslist perfect for this), bolster that with the average selling price on here (should be a ton of data) and then see where you are at. But generally, a semi-complete longblock like yours.... I would think around 1000-1200 is fair. In addition, some people may not like the pulley stuff and I always give more value to "Stock" motors, so maybe leave that out in your post, or put on the stock stuff if you still have. Good luck with the sale. I would be highly interested if you were closer.
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Thanks. Your points regarding the after market parts are well-taken. I may consider finding stock pulleys and cam gears if they are easy to locate.
$900-$1,200 is what I was guessing it was worth, but wanted some outside opinions. Thanks guys.
$900-$1,200 is what I was guessing it was worth, but wanted some outside opinions. Thanks guys.
impossible to value without a compression test. if it has at least 210psi cold and all cylinders read the same you will have an easy to sell $1000-1200 engine.
if you have a rebuilder with less than ideal compression it's worth parts value.
as it sits i wouldn't touch it without seeing a timing belt installed and rigging up a starter on the floor to do a compression test. without doing so there is no way to tell if valves are tweaked, broken rings, anything, it's basically parts core prices, maybe 500-600? crank and block are worth 250, damper 50-70, oil pan 40-50, cams 40, head value depends on LMAs and guide & valve condition
if you have a rebuilder with less than ideal compression it's worth parts value.
as it sits i wouldn't touch it without seeing a timing belt installed and rigging up a starter on the floor to do a compression test. without doing so there is no way to tell if valves are tweaked, broken rings, anything, it's basically parts core prices, maybe 500-600? crank and block are worth 250, damper 50-70, oil pan 40-50, cams 40, head value depends on LMAs and guide & valve condition
In addition, not only to stock pulleys make people think it has been abused less, you can sell the aftermarket stuff on ebay to other idiots who think pulleys are a good idea and make additional income independent of the sale of the motor iteself
impossible to value without a compression test. if it has at least 210psi cold and all cylinders read the same you will have an easy to sell $1000-1200 engine.
if you have a rebuilder with less than ideal compression it's worth parts value.
as it sits i wouldn't touch it without seeing a timing belt installed and rigging up a starter on the floor to do a compression test. without doing so there is no way to tell if valves are tweaked, broken rings, anything, it's basically parts core prices, maybe 500-600? crank and block are worth 250, damper 50-70, oil pan 40-50, cams 40, head value depends on LMAs and guide & valve condition
if you have a rebuilder with less than ideal compression it's worth parts value.
as it sits i wouldn't touch it without seeing a timing belt installed and rigging up a starter on the floor to do a compression test. without doing so there is no way to tell if valves are tweaked, broken rings, anything, it's basically parts core prices, maybe 500-600? crank and block are worth 250, damper 50-70, oil pan 40-50, cams 40, head value depends on LMAs and guide & valve condition
All excellent points. The fact that it has been sitting for sometime will be a concern when selling it. I plan to throw on an old timing belt and put a small amount of oil in each spark plug hole and let it sit for a day or two. Then I will crank it over by hand to be sure that it is not seized. I have my doubts that it will be.
Clearly, I can either prove the condition of the motor and potentially get more, or I can sell it "as is" for less. I have considered doing a compression check to prove that it is in good condition. The other option, of course, is to take off the head and sell the two separately.
I'll weigh my options as I move forward with this. I just needed to know the range that it would sell for so I can price it appropriately.
Clearly, I can either prove the condition of the motor and potentially get more, or I can sell it "as is" for less. I have considered doing a compression check to prove that it is in good condition. The other option, of course, is to take off the head and sell the two separately.
I'll weigh my options as I move forward with this. I just needed to know the range that it would sell for so I can price it appropriately.
no, you pour about 2oz of motor oil down each spark plug hole, let it sit 10 minutes, change the crankcase oil. spin the engine over by hand about 20 times then do the test with a starter.
All excellent points. The fact that it has been sitting for sometime will be a concern when selling it. I plan to throw on an old timing belt and put a small amount of oil in each spark plug hole and let it sit for a day or two. Then I will crank it over by hand to be sure that it is not seized. I have my doubts that it will be.
Clearly, I can either prove the condition of the motor and potentially get more, or I can sell it "as is" for less. I have considered doing a compression check to prove that it is in good condition. The other option, of course, is to take off the head and sell the two separately.
I'll weigh my options as I move forward with this. I just needed to know the range that it would sell for so I can price it appropriately.
Clearly, I can either prove the condition of the motor and potentially get more, or I can sell it "as is" for less. I have considered doing a compression check to prove that it is in good condition. The other option, of course, is to take off the head and sell the two separately.
I'll weigh my options as I move forward with this. I just needed to know the range that it would sell for so I can price it appropriately.
with solid compression it would go in a week or less on ebay for 1000 minimum plus shipping
I've sold complete B18C1 SWAPS for $1250, and that was before this economy took over. If you get more than $700 in this day and age, I would take it and run. Especially because it doesn't have a timing belt and needs parts to run. The people that said 1000-1200 are crazy and if they say they aren't tell them to buy it then.
Not trying to to be negative, its just that parts & stuff aren't selling like they used to.
Not trying to to be negative, its just that parts & stuff aren't selling like they used to.
impossible to value without a compression test. if it has at least 210psi cold and all cylinders read the same you will have an easy to sell $1000-1200 engine.
if you have a rebuilder with less than ideal compression it's worth parts value.
as it sits i wouldn't touch it without seeing a timing belt installed and rigging up a starter on the floor to do a compression test. without doing so there is no way to tell if valves are tweaked, broken rings, anything, it's basically parts core prices, maybe 500-600? crank and block are worth 250, damper 50-70, oil pan 40-50, cams 40, head value depends on LMAs and guide & valve condition
if you have a rebuilder with less than ideal compression it's worth parts value.
as it sits i wouldn't touch it without seeing a timing belt installed and rigging up a starter on the floor to do a compression test. without doing so there is no way to tell if valves are tweaked, broken rings, anything, it's basically parts core prices, maybe 500-600? crank and block are worth 250, damper 50-70, oil pan 40-50, cams 40, head value depends on LMAs and guide & valve condition
you will not get an optimum amount of money for a "sure it runs" engine.
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TurboEg
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