ever since i got my h22 swap, the way i have had the iabs connected is by a vacuum hose from the back of the manifold to the purge valve (the saucer looking thing in front of the iab plate), in the last few weeks i bought a manifold spacer and had been using that, difference was that vtec sounded a whole lot louder and it felt like it revved faster, well during this time my prelude's mileage also went down and from what i think is the manifold spacer was decreasing the temps too much around the iat sensor, and since the iat sensor is right below the spacer makes perfect sense. so as i was looking at the iabs i have noticed that they have never functioned as they were supposed to from factory ever .....since i got the swap. i got the swap at a shop and so i nvever asked being a noob at that time and all. so the way that iabs work form observation is that the butterflies are always open and when vacuum comes through the butterflies close due to the mechanism being actuated, so then when you go wot, your essencially using the longer runners which were for designed for the low-end. so when vtec engages, my car was never working at its full potential. vtec is not as loud since just one runner profile is being used and also top end power is being bottle-necked due to just having air coming in from one runner profile. therefore i now i need to buy the damn iab box and wire it. i am posting this for anyone else that has this method of using the iabs on their car. also might anyone have an extra one laying around? its sucks so much to know that you have never been at full potential, honda obviosly did their homework with it and gave us a you can have your cake and eat it too kind of thing here.

 

btw, i did go to a local junkyard and found one f22a6 accord but the damn box was broken, so then i got some other vacuum solenoid towards the firewall of the car but thinking about it i need a solenoid that closes when a signal is sent from the ecu rather than open. since i always thought the solenoid would open for the iabs rather than close as i now know, and i don't what this solenoid does or i could ghetto rig to work for the iabs

 

Butterfly valves close at low revs for the longer runners. This builds air velocity into the combustion chamber at low revs. More air = more power (provided proper fuel mapping). High revs uses both long and short runners.
I would check to make sure you have the right ecu. If its anything chipped, they may be disabled.
Also, hook up a vac gauge to the hose going to the actuator and see it it's getting vacuum at idle. Also check the signal going to the solenoid under the intake as well as vacuum to the box.

 

Btw, propper punctuation is a lot nicer to read than that giant block of text...

 

what i found out was the exa

 

what i found out was the way the iabs worked exactly. vacuum going through = butterflies closed = low end power, vacuum not going through = butterflies open = high-end power. I need a vacuum solenoid that will close upon signal to get this characteristics. as i said i pulled one of the accord. it has two vacuum connections and a two wire connector( one wire is yel/blc and the other is gre/whi). can i connect this solenoid instead? will it serve the same function? close at the computers signal to cut out the vacuum? pic is on the link posted below

http://s1320.beta.photobucket.com/us...tml?sort=3&o=0

 

^ That sensor looks like the one connected to the fuel pressure regulator, off memory it has a role in regulating fuel pressure when the engine is very hot (fuel evaporation related).

You have the logic right behind how the IAB valves work but you will need the stock black vacuum box to get it to work correctly. If you still have the intake resonator valve control box (small black box near the air box) you could use that one to get the IAB valves working. If you just run a vacuum hose from that box to the IAB valves they will open at 3.5k rpm.

 

just bought a universal check valve from autozone for 5.99, now my iabs are fully operational, it was less than 10 dollars for me to get the iabs operational. hope this helps anyone else in the same situation. will post a video up.

 

btw, the vacuum tank was never added, however i might get that this weekend, as i am sure it has a purpose