I'm having a problem with my heater blend door getting stuck and not opening right.

I'm not to familiar with this so any help on how to fix it would be great. Pics, diagram? Need to fix it ASAP as its 37 ish out for a high next few days.

 

How do you know?

 

My coolant is only 3 months old. When the car is on if I grab both heater hoses in the engine bay they are both hot. When the heater works I get hot air within 3 mins of starting the car. When it doesn't it won't throw hot air at all but when I'm driving sometimes I hear a random thump in the cabin which is the blend door coming unstuck. It sounds like slap. Once I hear that, the air gets hot after a few seconds. Right now I'm constantly messing with the controls to try to get it to move.

 

Anyone got any other possibilities

 

I am having the EXACT same problem with my 2000 Civic EX. I have a B18C1 swap, and absolutely no A/C components. Been having this problem for a few years and never found anyone that shares my pain.

Starting to get cold in Ohio again and I need some heat!

 

Also, it's getting gradually worse. The past few years it would just pop and no worries, I had heat. This year though, it pops, heat for a few seconds/minutes, then goes back to cold and doesn't snap back again...

I dealt with it over the past, but it's becoming a bit ridiculous now. I'm sure it's something stupid and I will *facepalm* when I realize it. But for now I'm stuck freezing and peering through icy, frosted windows.

Let's figure this out!

 

This is the only diagram with doors/flaps that I can picture getting stuck somehow. Thoughts?

 

Go on passenger side under glove compartment there is a little window bLack take it off and clean the vent i just took mine apart and i was just garbage in it

 

Id do this first but if you arent getting good results you might as well dig into it all the way.
Not worth freezing while you are driving.

 

I will look into the little black window/door under the glove compartment as soon as I get out of work in two hours.

If it doesn't work, what is digging into it all the way?

Are there any of the doors/flaps in the diagram I posted that would specifically be causing this issue more than others? Will I need to rip the dash apart to access any/all of these doors?

Thanks for the replies guys!

 

I'm not seeing this little black window?

 

Yup mine is getting worse and worse. Hopefully Fridays high of 50* will let me get in there

 

60+ here today. Gonna dig into it after lunch.

Did you have any luck Marvin?

 

FIXED IT!!!

Took off the glove box and the ac box in between the blower motor and center of the dash. Since I already got rid of the AC, I simply was able to remove that box.

My issue was road debris trapped in the vent which caused the blend door to break the bottom post (the post that it rotates on when the heater temp dial is turned) and there by staying stuck closed thus no heat. I glued it back together with epoxy. It works now!

 

yeah i found a squirrels nest like u wouldnt believe in mine i have to pull mine out and clean the rest of it mine doesnt blow any better than b4 lol it blows real good with the cover thing off anyways is there a way to take the whole box out without haveing to break the ac lines open

 

It's a PIA but yes. It comes off in 2 parts. Just have some pain reliver ready cuz your neck is gonna be cramped for a while lol

 

FIXED AND I MADE A VIDEO!!!! HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE IN THE FUTURE!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUvY...ature=youtu.be






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Does all Honda have these window doors whatever it’s called?

my is a 93 civic hatch and my heat use to blow until I did a rebuild and wire tuck and now it just blows air... no ac in the car just heat for winter time.

 

The first thing to consider when the heater blows cold is the cooling system may not be full. When the engine is completely cold take off the radiator cap and look in the radiator, it should be all the way full. Do not just check the white plastic tank.

The 93 heating system is similar only instead of an electric motor it has a mechanical push-pull cable from the hot-cold lever on the dash to the mechanism on the bottom of the box that controls the air door. There is another cable from the bottom of the box that opens the water valve on the firewall when the lever is pushed to hot. This should cause the coolant to flow and the heater hoses at the firewall should both be hot.

 

the coolant is full in the radiator and I pull at the lever on the bottom of the box under glove box and the lever on the firewall is open.

 

When you pull the lever on the bottom of the box it moves a solid metal push rod that comes across toward the right side of the car (on a LHD model)-- the right end of that solid metal rod is attached to the air door.

As others noted the door is plainly visible once you remove the evaporator box, which can be done through the glove compartment opening without taking the whole dash out. If the A/C lines are already disconnected or you have the empty bypass box for cars that never had A/C in the first place of course you won't have to deal with refrigerant.

 

2:22 in the video.