ok so ive had my hatch for a year now and ive had the crappy d15b2 and recently i bought a 98 si witch was hit from the side and i got the d16y8 and swappedit in to my hatch! so im running the d16y8 with its original obd2 dizzy, the y8 intake, obd2 injectors, and the iat sensor is hooked up to my intake.

so before i dropped my new motor in i did the dpfi to mpfi converssion wich i ran the 2 wires for the dizzy from c1 and c2 then the wires that were on c1 and c2 i ran to b10 and b12... after that i ran my injector wiring with no ressistor box since ther obd2 injectors.... then i finally dropped the motor in... so after all this i bought a ecu obd0 to obd1 harness from a friend (never used) and a "virgin" p28 (manual) from a 93 and i pluged everything up... when i put my key on on i heard my main relay click and my fuel pump prime but it never stops priming.... then when i tried to crank the car it would just turn over, nothing else. afterwards i checked and the injectors never opened not even to prime and i had good spark.. so next i placed my injectors back in and i got a empty windex bottle and filled it with gasoline, opened the tb and squirted some in there, turned the key on, and crancked it from the starter and it started right up! And it would run aslong as i kept squierting gas in to it.... so i decided to call it a day and stoped there... next day i double check my injector wiring and everything is perfectly fine!! so today i was messing with the wiring and i cranked it and it tried to start on its own. so i cranked it againg and it tried to start again. sso i primed it twice and it started and iddled very poorly :/ so i gave her some throttle and she died, didnt even try to rev.... si i stared her again now ith a steadyer idle but still bad sitting right around 1.2k with a rich smell coming from the ehaust... i give her gas and it tries to die. now if i really sslowly ease in to the gas it wil rev up to 3.5k to 4k (limp mode) so i shut the key off and the engine keeps running! so at this poing im like wtf is going on!!!! so i unplug the ecu and it dies.. i plug it back up and it wont start! i dont know what else to do ive gone over everything about 20 times and dont see anything wrong :/ oh and when i turn the key on the cell comes on shuts off the comes on solid.... even when the engine iss runing....

so why does my fuel pump not stop priming??
why wont it shut off with the key?
and why the crappy idle and limp mode??


i am running a 4 wire o2 and vtec is hooked up if that helps....
all groundss are good! just put on 3 extras and cleaned the thermostat one

i really need help here

sorry for the long post...

thanks in advance Jorge

 

Alright so you've got multiple problems I think.

First issue is to verify your distributor wiring. This is sort of a PITA when using an obd2 distributor on an obd0 chassis. I had to verify, pin by pin, all 8 wires in the distributor (I don't count tach and power as they are hard to mix up)
commonly, c1 and c2 get switched around by accident. same with the two white wires on the distributor. I don't recommend swapping random wires around... instead, get a long length of wire, a 9v battery, and a circuit tester.

hook one end of the wire up to the battery (i used electrical tape)
hook one end of the circuit tester up to the other terminal on the battery
now if you touch the pointy side of the circuit tester to the exposed end of the length of wire, you'll get a light! perfect.

so the whole idea is that you'll put the end of the length of wire into a pin on the distributor then tap each pin on the ecu plug to find out what wire it hooks up to. this way you can make sure your wiring is correct. each distributor pin corresponds directly with an ecu pin.

if your fuel pump isn't stopping priming, you've got a main relay issue. either re-flow the solder inside the relay or convert to EG relays, they are slightly more reliable I find. Injectors don't open, they don't "prime" or whatever. The pump just pressurizes the fuel system, that's what they mean by prime. Your injectors should open when it's cranking though. You can hook a small test light up to the injector terminals and see if it flashes during crank, but there is probably an easier way to do it.

I had an issue with going from obd0 dpfi to obd1 mpfi as well. eventually decided to just get it running obd0 mpfi and then convert to obd1.

also the y8 won't run properly on the p28. get a z6 cam gear or get your p28 chipped w/ a y8 basemap. both methods work. the reasoning is really hard to explain.

Good luck sir.

 

thank you for the info i will check tomorow and i will update with what comes up! Thanks for the quick reply again! Jorge

 

ok so last night i pulled the civic in the garage and i took my main relay out and i re soldered every pin in the main relay and put it back in... the next thing i did was to unplug the distributor and checked every wire, all of them were pluged in the right place including the c1/c2 wire... also the b10/b12 wires were in the right place, aswell as the injectors...
so i put everything back in and cranked it... and nothing again.. plus the fuel pump stays on still... but now my solid cel went away. so i took all the spark plugs out and i put them on top of the fuel rail in the order 1 3 4 2 and i told my brother to crank it for me, when he did the spark was nice and strong (i touched one to make sure ) an it moved fromleft to right in the order 1342 wich is good.... so i know its not the distributor..
my other guess is that its a fuel problem so i unpluged the fuel pump and i got the spray bottle with gas. and i squirted some in the tb and cranked it! and bam! sarted right up! so i kept squirting gas in to it and it wasnt misfiring like when it runs on its own fuel supply. so i went over the injectors once again and everything is pluged in the right place so im stuck again and i dont know anywhere else to look... im starting to think its my ecu or my obd0 to 0bd1 ecu harness... i think im cutting my chassis ecu plugs and swaping them to my obd1 ones.. where could i get a pinout from obd0 to obd1?

:edit: it wont shut off with they key still....


Thanks for the help! Jorge

 

so i opened y ecu today and i found this





this is what burned



here it is close up



any one know if this is fixable?

and some pics of my hatch in progress







i know the shops a bit crowded lol

 

pvc pipe intake? Valve cover is sexy though. When I get my z6 head I'm thinking purple with either black or white lettering. I'm going to use a purple adjustable cam gear and leave the cover off so you can see it. Think it will look pretty sexy.

 

lol yeah pvc but it looks good painted and i can say i made it

and thanks!

 

The pvc isn't a great idea. Something to do with the thermal properties of that plastic.

I like where your intake goes in the bumper. I thought it was a fog light at first!

Phearable or xenocron might be able to fix it... Email them and ask.

 

Z6 cam gear? Let's **** up the mechanical timing so that I can match base ignition timing to the wrong ecu. Derp.

Replace burned virgin p28 with chipped p28 and y8 basemap, don't touch cam timing, keep ignition timing at 12* base.

 

lol yeah i wont be doing that... il get my basemap for the y8...


I just got a email from the person thats going to chip my ecu, wich i sent the pics of the burnt ecu to and he said the car shuld run with it like that so now im wondering again if it is my ecu or something else....

 

The z6 cam gear vs the y8 is offset by about 4 degrees to compensate for the difference in base timing.

If you set both to tdc, you aren't going to "mess up mechanical timing"

The y8 basemap isn't perfect and is just that: a basemap. Not a tune.

Please, speak properly...
I'm having trouble understanding that mix of gas and expelled rectal nuggets from your vocal tract...

You're what brings misinformation.

 

yes i know it will just be a basemap but it will eventually get tuned i just need to get the car running and get all the things right before i do so so hopefully i will get her running soon....

oh and ill probably do the same thing im going to run it obd0 and see how it goes once i get a different p28 to test i will go to obd1 again....

 

You can fix that.
Search Google for "P28 Q31"
It happens.
Here's a post from 2008.

Even explains a common reason for WHY it burns up as well as a link to where to purchase a new one (if you can solder and do it yourself).
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/q31-p28-ecu-fried-help-2287631/

 

ok so i kept looking for y problem cause obviously Q31 wasn't it because i don't have evap in my hatch.... so looking around i find this







here is a pic of both of the things Ive found...



& thanks for the link 4drEF it was very helpful

 

just replace the ecu and call it a day

 

that's not the point here im trying to figure out if i could fix this because it will be lot cheaper than buying a new ecu... i don't have much money and i have to use it very wisely so getting a new one isn't really a option...

 

With a cotton swab and a little rubbing alcohol, clean off the black stuff.
You need to see under and around that capacitor (C19) to see if the board traces burned up.

I'm not sure what that transistor does, but somebody in this thread says Q31 and some capacitors have something to do with the fuel pump
https://honda-tech.com/forums/engine-management-tuning-124/chipped-p28-not-priming-fuel-pump-1159611/

C14; 220uF 35V cap
C15; 33uF 35V cap
C24; 47uF 10V cap
C21; 33uF 35V cap
C19; 33uF 35V cap
C18; 220uF 10V cap
C40; 100uF 10V cap


http://madfablab.com/product_info.ph...products_id=55


Anything interesting on the bottom side of the board?
.

 

Great info!!! thank you so much! i am working on cleaning it all right now... do you by any chance know what c19 does? thanks again!

 

ok so i got a new ecu its a p06 manual ecu and i tried it and the car is doing the same thing but a little better (i drove it) but its still bad and running very very very rich.... anyone know what it could be im going to make my own harness tonight to see if thats it... thanks for the help!

 

What are you reading that tells you it is running rich?

Your ECU is for a non-vtec motor btw. That's gonna be a big part of the problem too.

 

Did I rustle your jimmies? If you put a z6 cam gear on a y8, mechanical timing will be 4* off with all of the marks lined up. Ignition base timing is adjusted with the distributor and mechanical cam timing is set by the cam gear. This is really basic stuff, put on the timing belt with the correct gear, set ignition timing to match the motor and use an ecu with a properly calibrated map.

 

yes know my ecu is from a non vtec but what im trying to do iss get the car running good until i get another p28 or chip this p06..

i know its running rich because i stood behind the car when it was on and you could see unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust... and my eyes instantly got iritated... also my exhaust outlet is BLACK and i just put this muffler on and it was brand new.... and i know its unburnt gas becaus you can see a good amount of black/greish smoke coming out of the muffler

 

Lol. Not worth explaining to you.

 

so i reflowed my old main relay and still does the same thing... so i got a eg main relay with harness do you happen to know what pin goes to what ive been looking but im kind of confused on where they each go.... could you help me here? thanks alot!

 

i took some pictures to help... i didn't cut any wires, just re-pinned it.





honestly I forget where I found the info to do it. just googled some random stuff.