i have a 95 GSR block and head with b16 pistons, b blocks manifold, plm headers, but im not sure about the Camshaft so i was thinking to change it,coz its look like stock GSR cams, any suggestion what is the best Camshaft should i put? the Compression test is 260 all around but its not giving enough hp.. any suggestions?

 

.... Im gonna warn you your gonna get flamed so get a shield!

so have you even dyno tuned the motor?
How do you know there stock gsr cams?
how much "HP" is enough for you?
What are your goals with all this?
Did you think its as simple as someone saying go with a stage 1 or 2 or hell stage 3 cam?
What is your engine setup?
I think theres a lot of research you need to do before you make a thread on what kind of cams are good for your mismatched part motor.
I suggest you research all motor setups a little bit more.

 

yeah i tried to get it tuned, but they stoped it due to its burning too much oil, smokes are comming out too much.. but in that half way, its only making 150 hp.. we did a leak down test and its good.. compression test is good as well..and my goal is atleast 200 hp.. but the previous owner said its a 95 gsr block with b16 pistons, b16 tranny, ACT stage 3 clutch, b block manifold, ohh and my bad its says on the posting that it has a type r cams already..

 

something to think about is the high cost per hp with the b series

hands down the inexpensive way to go fast is a turbo on a stock gsr engine

you'll spend 3000-3500 but that's like i said, inexpensive versus an all motor build, it also gets you 300whp

200whp all motor means a $700 header. $1000 cams, $400 VT and whatever work is needed to be at 11:1-11:5-1 compression

the jun3 or skunk pro1 are two of the more famous 200whp cams but wait, it gets even better. the pro 1's especially are so aggressive you'll roast your guides in 40k miles of street driving.

so, unless you want to turn wrenches forever and blow all your money there are two reliable ways to have a snappy street engine with low cost

1. buy a stock jdm itr engine. that's $2500 shipped, install, drive, done

2. turbo a stock gsr engine and keep it under 300whp. to go boost reliably you're looking at 3000-3500 minimum and probably closer to 4000 by the time it's all done\

personally speaking i love a stock itr engine in a dc2 chassis. it's balanced, perky, good mpg and very reliable. boost overwhelms the car on street tires and makes it a handful to rail on the backroads. power does exceed the chassis

 

I would be finding out why it "smokes" before I spend money on cams. 94

 

yeah you're right. i see ur point.. the thing is i got this motor with all mods for a grand, so i've thought that ill just do it all motor..and i bought my PLM headers for only a hundred.. so its not that much..and this is my first project so i guess this will be good enough for me for now?

 

x2

 

i would do the same as what people are suggesting. if you have good compression but a lot of smoke there's a good chance you have shot valve guides and hardened valve seals. there are really only two places an engine burns oil. it's here or you have piston ring seal issues. it's possible to have this problem with good compression if you don't have enough tension on the oil rings. that can happen either due to age/heat cycling or just being made low tension. some "race rings" make poor street rings for just this reason.

since you already have all this stuff it wouldn't take a lot to go for the self built itr engine of my previous suggestion. itr cams are probably the best street cam made for one very good reason: they can go 200k miles and not waste a valvetrain. really aggressive cams can't do this

 

I agree with the above ^.

Just pull the head and do some Headwork And mild cams like jun 1's, Toda spec a's, or skunk tuner 1's - that's good power without sacrificing reliability.

Tune and then decide whether you want to boost or not later down the line.

 

Haha, right?!?

Why throw more money at it if its not working correctly. You will need tuning with an upgraded cam...and if your tuner wont touch it now, he certainly wont touch it once you mess with it.

 

I would deff not modifie that engine if it smokes! get that fixed before you go any further like everyone suggest. And if you have Type R cams i would just keep them, your not gonna get that much more hp from just a cam upgrade. Your gonna want to port the head and then upgrade the cams to get some hp free.

I would find why its burning oil, my guess would be the rings, the pistons might not have been installed correct with its rings or it was not broken in correct or the valve seals could be leaking. You can replace the valve seals with the head still on pretty easily if you have the skill and tools. I have a thread on how to replace the springs and retainers and theres another one as well here to search.

 

yeah actually im taking off the head now and send it to machine shop to check it.. thats why i was thinking that while the head is off, i like to change the cams aswell..

 

Type R's are pretty much your best bet... Going all motor is exspensive.. SHould of just we h2b for 220 all motor but thats just me I guess

 

it's the cost to benefit thing

with 260psi of cranking compression you're probably around 11;1 to 11:2-1 compression, that's enough to run a jun3 and make real power, BUT, those cams are expensive. the blox c is a direct copy of them and cheaper but you still have the VT wear issue from those big lobes. they would be worth 10hp over your itr cams but that's literally 100 dollars per hp

even the blox cams are what? 400-500 + a good VT

imo it's just not worth it. the ITR cams are just wonderful daily driver cams and don't need to go to 9000rpm to make power....which is another problem with the highstrung jun3 cams. that much more wear spinning the motor to 9000-9200 versus 8400 of the itr

they are also not as reliable as oem itr cams. unless you install them stupid like under full rocker tension itr cams don't break. the blox stuff can