My car is a 1998 Civic EX Coupe and I am not original owner. Factory system looks to have been a 6 speaker component with crossovers in the doors.
The previous owner did the following:
Alpine Alpine iDA-X200 reciever
Stealth 900w 4-channel power amp
Cdt Audio Cambria CAX-693 6" x 9" 100 watt RMS rear speakers
Infinity Reference 4" 35 watt RMS coaxial front speakers (fabricated mount). Original mount looks to be 5 1/4" or maybe 6"
Peel and Sealed (or better) insulation throughout car
New wiring and bypassed 1" component door speakers and crossovers
No sub-woofer. Amp is powering rears and fronts

The previous owner had an additional amp with 2 subs, but took those out before he sold it to me.

The driver's side front is blown and I am considering these as replacements (minus the tacky grills) and keep it wired as is and add an amp and 10" sub.

Would it be better to wire the rears directly to the alpine receiver and purchase front component speakers instead to wire to power amp?

Would the front component speakers require only two channels or 4?

If it is only 2 channels could I wire in a sub to the stealth amp and not have to purchase an additional amp?

suggestions for wiring options and speakers appreciated.

 

bump. take a stab at it someone, 110 views and no replies. Time to sack up

 

worthless dicks...lol

 

Never heard of stealth

Find out what that amp truly does power wise and report back.

 

It would be better to run all high/mids off of the same amp so that you get the same sound quality and watts to all of them. Ex. Amp = 70 watts to the front and the stock HU = 20 watts to the rear.

The front components will require 2 channels. Amp to crossover to speakers.

Yes you could run a sub off the other 2 channels but that's just doing it half ***. Unless the amp was design to do that. Ex 5 channel amps.

 

The amp is an Autotek Stealth XS 900.4 800w (probably 10 years old)
4 X 110 Watts RMS into 4 Ohm
4 X 200 Watts RMS into 2 Ohm
4 X 225 Watts RMS into 1 Ohm
2 X 450 Watts RMS into 2 Ohm Bridged
Built In Crossovers: Yes
Channel Separation: Yes
Full Mosfet Amplifier
Chrome Heatsink
Stiffly Regulated Power Supply
Fully Adjustable Crossovers
18 dB Slope Variable
Adjustable Line Outputs
4 AWG Gold Plated Molded Connectors
Maxi Fuse
Switchable Subsonic Filter

I found a user review that states:
"This is truly a great sounding amp. It has plenty of power too. I'm using it for my whole system. Front channels for all my components at 1.6 ohms and the rear channels bridged at 2 ohms mono for one double voice coil 12" woofer. I have had this amp for two years and I am still very pleased with it".

I can't find a manual on line. I found a MTX 10" sub (4 ohm) 300w RMS with ported box and Alpine D-series 300 watt RMS mono amp for $100 for both on Craigslist. If I buy it looks like I'll just need to run new wiring to the mono amp /sub and keep the autotek setup as is powering the front and rears. Should be a decent setup with 10" carrying the lows, 6" x 9"s carrying the mid bass and highs and the 4"s providing upper mids and highs.

 

From previous post: "I can't find a manual on line. I found a MTX 10" sub (4 ohm) 300w RMS with ported box and Alpine D-series 300 watt RMS mono amp for $100 for both on Craigslist. If I buy it looks like I'll just need to run new wiring to the mono amp /sub and keep the autotek setup as is powering the front and rears. Should be a decent setup with 10" carrying the lows, 6" x 9"s carrying the mid bass and highs and the 4"s providing upper mids and highs".

Bought the amp/sub/box off CL. Over-sized (side port) box with 2 ohm speaker
500 watts. Thumping fine now, good mix for rock and rap. Just need to replace front 4" with polk audio's.