2000 civic will click but not start
Hey guys. I need help fast so I can get my car on the road.again. here's the problem. I decided to do a integra cluster in my car. I wired it up exactly how they said here on Honda tech. Everything worked fine besides the rpm gauge. I drove it around for awhile and it was fine. I got home and parked it came out a hour later and car won't start anymore!!. I can hear the click when I turn the ignition on. Then I can hear the fuel pump prime but when I turn the key to start it I just get one click and that's all..it won't even try to crank and turn motor over. I started off my diagnose by just rewiring the old cluster back. And got nothing. Checkd my fuses they all seem good well at least the regular style that u can check with a light, I don't know how to check the square ones. But anyways I'm sure its probably a easy fix and has something to do with that damn integra cluster I tried hooking up.
I can try to jump it. But I doubt it will work BC all my lights inside and out aren't even the slightest bit dim. And I thought if that was the case it would armrest act like it wants to try and crank
I tried jump starting it with my dads truck got nothing... then tried jumper wire from starter to battery starter will have loud click but doesn't attempt to turn over ..even tho its a 5 speed the jumper wire would normally start it by passing the clutch safety right? Or does someone have to be in the car pressing on the clutch?. I'm almost guessing main relay might have got shorted from the cluster?
Well only cars i've driven with the clutch safety were Diesels. Not gas. Also did u check if your starter engine is still ok. Maybe it's jammed up. Try putting a screwdriver on it and give it a good hit with a hammer.
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You don't even need to bring it anywhere, you can bench test it yourself. You'll need a car battery, a set of jumper cables, a small length of wire (any gauge will be fine, about 6" is all you need), and the starter to be tested.
Remove the starter. Attach the jumper cables to the battery (positive and negative). Attach the positive cable to the large power bolt on the starter. Attach the negative cable to the body of the starter (usually a bolt hole is easiest). Stand on the starter. No, really, you want to stand on it - it can get violent if it works.
Attach the small wire to the power terminal. Now touch that wire to the signal wire on the starter. The starter gear should rapidly shoot out and spin up. If it does neither, the starter is shot, or you did the test wrong.
Remove the starter. Attach the jumper cables to the battery (positive and negative). Attach the positive cable to the large power bolt on the starter. Attach the negative cable to the body of the starter (usually a bolt hole is easiest). Stand on the starter. No, really, you want to stand on it - it can get violent if it works.
Attach the small wire to the power terminal. Now touch that wire to the signal wire on the starter. The starter gear should rapidly shoot out and spin up. If it does neither, the starter is shot, or you did the test wrong.
If you have power going to the starter and it just clicks, the starter is the problem.
There is nothing else in that line of circuitry that can be the problem.
There is nothing else in that line of circuitry that can be the problem.
So pull the starter and bench test it. Also, get a multimeter and test both the main power lead, as well as the starter signal lead. Main power lead should get battery voltage with the key to ON(II), and the starter signal lead should get battery voltage with the key turned to ON(III).
If you can hear the fuel pump priming and get the check engine light to come on and also turn off with the key in the On position, it's not a relay.
Trust me when I tell you, LISTEN TO THESE PEOPLE. They have helped me out tremendously with my Crx. Get it bench tested and if it passes, check EVERY SINGLE FUSE under the dash and in the engine bay.
Trust me when I tell you, LISTEN TO THESE PEOPLE. They have helped me out tremendously with my Crx. Get it bench tested and if it passes, check EVERY SINGLE FUSE under the dash and in the engine bay.
You don't even need to bring it anywhere, you can bench test it yourself. You'll need a car battery, a set of jumper cables, a small length of wire (any gauge will be fine, about 6" is all you need), and the starter to be tested.
Remove the starter. Attach the jumper cables to the battery (positive and negative). Attach the positive cable to the large power bolt on the starter. Attach the negative cable to the body of the starter (usually a bolt hole is easiest). Stand on the starter. No, really, you want to stand on it - it can get violent if it works.
Attach the small wire to the power terminal. Now touch that wire to the signal wire on the starter. The starter gear should rapidly shoot out and spin up. If it does neither, the starter is shot, or you did the test wrong.
Remove the starter. Attach the jumper cables to the battery (positive and negative). Attach the positive cable to the large power bolt on the starter. Attach the negative cable to the body of the starter (usually a bolt hole is easiest). Stand on the starter. No, really, you want to stand on it - it can get violent if it works.
Attach the small wire to the power terminal. Now touch that wire to the signal wire on the starter. The starter gear should rapidly shoot out and spin up. If it does neither, the starter is shot, or you did the test wrong.
I'd seriously suggest you try to bench test it yourself before using my solution. As said, if this does indeed seem to be the problem. And you're going to the scraps or something, hit it with a hammer (WHILE ATTACHED TO THE ENGINE!) and it might just pop out. This is just a temporary solution. Don't continue to drive that way, cause it might just mess up the starter engine when you do it to many times!
The hammer method only tells you if the actuator motor is stuck, not if anything is fried. Considering his is only clicking once, the actuator motor isn't stuck
Well i had this problem with a friends car once. A 2007 Toyota Corolla. Also clicked once. Bang with the hammer and it worked. As soon as it worked we went to the scraps for another one xD Just saying haha.
You'll need a voltmeter, stop guessing the diag and PROVE your faults. Typically this kind of failure can be created from a poor power or ground connection. The main ground at the transmission is a common failure with older vehicles. Confirm battery voltage ign. on position and off. Also test for voltage at starter +. See if that matches battery voltage
1) try boostin vehicle at battery. yes/no
2) test for proper voltage at the battery terminals yes/no
3)check for proper voltage at the battery POSTS yes/no
- this will help determine a voltage drop at the post
4) Jump red booster cable from battery + to starter + (1 cable only) try start yes/no
5) Remove + cable from starter and battery
6) install - cable from battery terminal -, and ground - to transmission assy. yes/no
Let me know from there....
1) try boostin vehicle at battery. yes/no
2) test for proper voltage at the battery terminals yes/no
3)check for proper voltage at the battery POSTS yes/no
- this will help determine a voltage drop at the post
4) Jump red booster cable from battery + to starter + (1 cable only) try start yes/no
5) Remove + cable from starter and battery
6) install - cable from battery terminal -, and ground - to transmission assy. yes/no
Let me know from there....
Well just to give everyone a update when my cousin came over I had him help me push it so I could jump in and pop the clutch. And boom! She fired up so I knew it was starter. Went and got a new one and its running great!. So big props and thanks to everyone that said starter. Bc I didn't think it was that BC id get a loud click so I thought it was good until JBPNOMAN pointed out that that's just the solenoid so there for that can be good but the motor itself can be fried!! Thanks again everyone you guys rock!
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